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- Cummins Marine Forum Topics
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Mystery sensor on 270 Cummins
This topic has 3 replies, has 3 voices, and was last updated by 1 year ago
June 13, 2022 at 3:23 pm I have an 270 Cummins, Serial # 74602729. The attached picture shows the fuel/oil manifold. The silver sensor with one wire is the oil pressure gauge for the instruments. What is the one to the left (with 2 wires) and why is it so expensive ($250 in 2013 vs $20 for the oil pressure gauge).Ā I assume it controls the low oil pressure buzzer. Does it interact with the ECM for the electric air heaters? I have disconnected the air heater from the ECU…
3 RepliesJune 14, 2022 at 9:30 am It is a 1998 37′ Bayliner. The silver sensor on the right is the oil pressure sensor for the dash gauges. I know this because I replacedĀ it ($20) when my gauges stopped working. Also when I bought the boat the warning buzzers didn’t work and I had to buy the sensor on the left from Cummins ($250 in 2013), which fixed the problem. The reason I am thinking that it controls the air heaters is that the buzzer problem started happening w…
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ECM control for air heaters
This topic has 14 replies, has 4 voices, and was last updated by 4 years ago
November 4, 2019 at 3:27 pm I am having trouble with my air heaters on my 1998 Cummins 270 serial number 45661773. I know you recommend removing them but I am stubborn and want to know how they work. My port engine heaters worked fine, I could hear a click when turning on the key, the wait to start light illuminated and they started easy. The starboard solenoids didn’t work and the wait to start light didn’t light up. So to diagnose the problem I hooked up a te…
14 RepliesNovember 19, 2019 at 5:21 pm Well after spending hours running a power line to the fuse on the engine from the ignition switch, everything worked fine; once! Now it never works. I thought maybe I have to ground the other side of the fuse, so I ran a wire to ground, no difference. Does this mean the ECM on both engines suddenly doesn’t work? How much is a new ECM? Kevin
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SMX water pump impeller change
This topic has 14 replies, has 6 voices, and was last updated by 5 years ago
December 13, 2018 at 11:23 am I am attempting to replace the impeller from my SMX pump. I installed it 3 years ago and in order to remove the old Sherwood pump I had to remove the motor mount. As you can see the impeller can only come out 3/4 of the way due to the fuel hose that comes off of the fuel filter and goes to the injection pump? (Bosch). I need to remove this hose to finish and it appears it would be easiest to remove the banjo fitting at the pump. (second picture …
14 RepliesDecember 21, 2018 at 10:49 am Kevin, I see you had the issue with the impeller blades expanding inside the case as you push the impeller in. I’ve found that the easiest way to deal with that is to remove the top hose flange (hose to the fuel cooler). That exposes the interior of the case, and you can bend the blades as needed when you push in the impeller.
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Turbo Riser Blowby
This topic has 7 replies, has 4 voices, and was last updated by 6 years ago
November 30, 2017 at 11:17 am I am replacing my risers and upon removing them I found significant blowby on the starboard turbo to riser interface. I have included a picture of the starboard turbo surface and a picture of the port and starboard ‘turbo side’ gaskets. I would like to know what caused the leakage. Do I need to pull the turbo and have it machined? Any input would be appreciated.
7 RepliesDecember 3, 2017 at 10:14 am Hi Kevin, I would strongly suggest that you remove your exhaust elbow(s) as it is 19 years old, and at least have it cleaned (at a rad shop) and inspected for leaks from corrosion. I had an exhaust hose overheat situation this summer on my new to me 15 year old Cummins 6BTA that was caused by a corroded “stock” Cummins elbow that looked similar to yours. Only caught the issue because I had just installed an exhaust heat alarm from Bo…
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Mystery sensor on 270 Cummins