[MATTHEW SCOTT WARD]

I received my new housing and installed the core per the great instructions on this site. The attached pics are of my pressure testing system. Parts were obtained from the local home center for less than $30.

So far so good on holding the pressure.

Scott

[MATTHEW SCOTT WARD]

Thanks for the suggestion, Rob. I decided to bite the bullet and buy a new housing.

Scott

[MATTHEW SCOTT WARD]

That makes sense, Tony. The corners definitely have some bad spots. Not sure I’m willing to take a chance on a leak, even if I could get a good seal initially. The peace of mind will be worth the price of the new housing.

Thanks,
Scott

[MATTHEW SCOTT WARD]

I’ve been thinking further about the engineering of these aftercoolers. I’ve attached a crude drawing of the cross-section of an assembled aftercooler. It would seem the seals highlighted in red, which are between the o-ring and the core and angled part of the cap are much more critical than the seal shown in green. In order for water to get to the seal shown in green, the seal between the o-ring and the angled part of the cap would have to fail. As long as the mating surface of the housing is reasonably flat, it seems like the seal would be good. I’m not trying to doubt everyone’s expertise. I’m just trying to understand it better. What am I missing?

[MATTHEW SCOTT WARD]

So, by “done” , I assume that means I need to order a new case. Correct?

[MATTHEW SCOTT WARD]

Here are the pictures of the top…

[MATTHEW SCOTT WARD]

I posting 2 posts of the bottom and top of my port aftercooler housing. Both of these sets of pics are after block sanding each side. The bottom definitely had more material taken off than the top. This post contains pictures of the bottom. Please let me know your thoughts on whether this is good enough.

Thanks again for all the advice!
Scott

[MATTHEW SCOTT WARD]

I can block sanding, but I’m concerned about getting a consistent amount of material off around the circumference of each end. Would I be better off just taking it to a machine shop?

I definitely wouldn’t want to reassemble “permanently”. It appears the previous assembly was with some type of tan caulk or glue. This cooler came apart relatively easy. The starboard side is still soaking in Kroil.

Thanks,
Scott

[MATTHEW SCOTT WARD]

I took a couple of additional pictures this morning to hopefully provide better clarity. Would appreciate any additional thoughts.

Thanks,
Scott

[MATTHEW SCOTT WARD]

I believe the core is good, but haven’t been able to pressure test it. Was planning to test the entire setup after reassembling.

Scott

[MATTHEW SCOTT WARD]

Attached are some pics of the bottom of my port aftercooler case. I’ve started block sanding and wanted to get your thoughts on the corrosion around the rim. Does this need to be machined?

Thanks,
Scott

[MATTHEW SCOTT WARD]

Thanks for the advice. Due to limited space, I’ll give the zip tie method a try.

Thanks!
Scott

[MATTHEW SCOTT WARD]

Hello all. The aftercooler saga continues. I have a couple of questions.

1. I’ve attached pictures (both sides) of the core from my port engine. I used 3 cans of brake cleaner and soaked it in Simple Green for 24 hours. Does this look clean. Enough?
2. The third picture is of one if the end covers. Notice the white sealant around the zinc. When I reinstall my new zinc’s, it’s my understanding that I should NOT put any sealant on them. Is that correct?

Starboard aftercooler is still frozen. I’ve had it soaking in Kroil for the last 24 hours. Still hopeful.

Scott

[MATTHEW SCOTT WARD]

I ordered the Kroil yesterday. Hoping to have it in the next couple of days. In the meantime, I’m continuing to use heat and tapping around the perimeter with WD40 inside. As of this morning, there still is no seeping. Hopefully the Kroil will make the difference.

Keep your fingers crossed. ?

Scott

[MATTHEW SCOTT WARD]

Ok. I’ll pick up some Kroil, empty the WD-40 and pour this in the air side. Do I also try to spray some around the outside rim?

Any concern with my previous post about the rim of the core no longer being flat?

Thanks again for all the help, folks!

Scott

[MATTHEW SCOTT WARD]

Sorry, it appears the bottom pic didn’t attach correctly. I’ve attached it to this post…

[MATTHEW SCOTT WARD]

I’ve applied heat and tapped the perimeter with a mallet in an attempt to get the WD40 to start flowing from the inside. I heated again and used a piece of wood and rubber mallet to try and get it to move. So far, no go.

First picture is of the bottom, which I’m 90% sure is the side that is stuck. The second pic is of the top side. At this point I’ve poured the WD40 out and added fresh wd40. One more application of heat and related tapping. Now, we wait.

I did notice that it appears the brass ring on the bottom is no longer flat (I assume from the pounding). When I sit the entire assembly on that end, it has a “rock” to it. The cap still fits on, so I hope it’s ok.

Any other suggestions? What are my options if I can’t get it freed up?

Thanks,
Scott

[MATTHEW SCOTT WARD]

Once I get the core out, what should I use to clean the inside of the case? Brake cleaner?

Thanks,
Scott

[MATTHEW SCOTT WARD]

Ok. So if the WD40 isn’t seeping out after work tomorrow, I’ll try the torch. Based on the suggestions here, I’ll keep the flame yellow and move it around the perimeter of the aluminum, then use a wood block and mallet for persuasion.

Pics tomorrow, one way or the other. Keep your fingers crossed.

Thanks to everyone for the help!
Scott

[MATTHEW SCOTT WARD]

Is a propane torch too much to use?

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