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Raw water pump replacement
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This topic has 36 replies, has 8 voices, and was last updated by 2 years ago
May 3, 2021 at 1:52 pm OK, so I have had a couple SMX pumps sitting on my shelf for a while now waiting until I have the time to install. Well, it appears that one of my sherwood pumps is weeping saltwater so it is now time to make time rather than wait for the free time to do this. My question is about jacking the engine/removing the engine support bracket. I was under the impression that this had to be done because the pump will not clear the engine support bracke…
36 RepliesMay 21, 2021 at 2:14 pm pwrobert, thanks for chiming in. it is definitely nuts how this whole bracket/pump system was designed. with that said, I can tell you that for my port engine, removing the bracket & isolator mount was probably the easiest part of the whole job and regardless of whether or not you ‘can’ get the pump off without removing those things, I would remove them to make the rest of the job easier. I was a little intimidated by the idea…
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The correct propeller dilema
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This topic has 31 replies, has 4 voices, and was last updated by 3 years ago
December 5, 2019 at 11:57 am Hi to all!! recently I have hit a log while fishing and suffered from some prop damage. not significantly but once seen by the prop tech he told me that it had lot of electrolysis and that I would be better changing props. I am thinking in changing to a 4 blade prop. I have tried different reference like vicprop, propdepot, miwheel propit now and all have given me different props ranging from 22x 25 , 20×22 and 22x 24 respectively. My dile…
31 RepliesJuly 1, 2020 at 11:23 am Thanks Harry, Been a little wrapped around the axle on this one and seeing you got it right with the 21 x 21 – 4B wanted to get the comparable 3 blade dimensions which I did by backing into the the numbers using Vic Prop calculator. Don’t have an EGT gauge and still need to have some tuning done to hit the throttle stops. Once that is corrected, I should be able to make a much better prop decision based on the numbers. I mostly tr…
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6BT 5.9 Fuel Filters
This topic has 2 replies, has 3 voices, and was last updated by 4 years ago
March 25, 2020 at 5:24 pm My recently acquired boat has twin 6BT 5.9 engines, 1986 vintage. It has Racor 10 micron fuel filters as primary and the on-engine filters are FF42000. It looks like the FF42000 is a 10 micron filter also. Should I go with a finer filter like 2 or 5 micron for the secondary filter? The only filter I see for purchase is the 42000 for this vintage Cummins. Would appreciate any suggestions/part numbers for the secondary filter.
2 RepliesMarch 26, 2020 at 5:28 pm Your set-up now is fine, but could be improved easily———If you want to add a 2nd layer of protection, add a “mud & crud” spin-on before your Racor.. Your engine does not need anything less than 10 Mic — Your Racor does that, but it does need some help before the fuel gets there if you really want to do “it” right….
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Fresh Water Flush Sanity Check
This topic has 17 replies, has 8 voices, and was last updated by 4 years ago
February 5, 2020 at 6:30 am Hi Guys 6BTA 330 – Before rydlyming my raw water circuit (maintenance prior to removing aftercooler for bench service) I removed the Zinc on the HX. It was replaced in November 19 and has almost worn (?) through near the base already – I have had fresh water flush in mind for a while but now want to implement it soon so wanted a sanity check of my plan – feel free to call me stoopid š I am going to drill the strainer lids (stai…
17 RepliesFebruary 13, 2020 at 7:31 am Hi Donald Thanks for your thoughts – The same as you I want a connection up at deck level which will have the ‘valve’ to shut off completely. The check valve is just to stop any back flow of saltwater up the pipe.. The strainer already has a ball valve to shut water off in case of an ‘incident’ but i’m wondering if a ball valve would be better than a check valve as its simpler! In theory the pipework shouldnt…
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Black smoke at cruise – 6BTA M3 -370 hp
This topic has 10 replies, has 3 voices, and was last updated by 4 years ago
September 16, 2019 at 6:19 am Port motor started smoking pretty good this weekend. Had slight black smoke a couple weeks ago. The boat seems over prop (2600 rpms wot at sea trail with slightly fouled running gear) to begin with. She had to work to get on a plane yesterday too. She got up to 2400 rpms and Cruised at 2200 rpms. 3000 rpms no load in slip. I did not run her without an air filter, but will try that next. The after-coolers have been serviced. Any additional …
10 RepliesNovember 4, 2019 at 6:23 am Joe, It did solve the problem?. Both engines ran in sync nice this weekend. No smoke even when going up on a plane after trolling for a couple hours. Had a mechanic look over the engines Friday. Said my throttle cables are stretched so the throttles are not fully opening up. So thatās next on the list. But he didnāt calibrate the tachometer so I still need to get that done. He picked up on some wore steering parts the surveyor missed so …
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6BTA Spool Up Issue
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This topic has 36 replies, has 6 voices, and was last updated by 4 years ago
February 23, 2019 at 5:54 pm Dear Tony, Carolina Classic 28 with a pair of 6BTA5.9 M3 330HP. Roughly 2200 hours on the engines with no major problems. Cummins did a full service at 2000 hours which included adjusting the values. I generally put about 60-80 hours a year on the engines. I also have your water pumps on for the last three years. I had a strange problem with my starboard engine that happened on my last trip in December, the afternoon before I had to haul and wi…
36 RepliesJune 9, 2019 at 2:11 pm Just what I suspected early on…….This engine has been on a salt water diet for years.. #5 & #6 cylinders always go first when it’s an inline drive. When you pull the head, drop the valves on 5 & 6.. You’ll see it big time on the stems and seats. As to all the rest-No sense fixing the damage until you fix the “reason” why it happened–It’s called Poor Exhaust design & not following both …
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Raw water pump replacement
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