[ciscokid69]

Rob, Read the threads strongly suggesting ditching the Cummins factory block heater on our QSB 6.7. Wolverine is recommended replacement. In looking at their website, the install requires removing most paint on pan. I assume the location is on the bottom-making for a tough install. Any advice would be welcomed on the location and installation tips/experience. Thanks, Scott

[ciscokid69]

Brad, Did you find a source for smaller sizes? I would like to size for the genset.

[ciscokid69]

Barry, My previous answer was incomplete. Yes the alarm did sound in the last minutes. We were at the marina entrance at the time and able to dock. Scott

[ciscokid69]

Fortunately the pressure test revealed the head gasket was ok. Appears the lubricating oil cooler failed perhaps secondary to the raw water issue and overheating. We have owned the boat for 2 years and earlier discovered the coolant (antifreeze) was not adequately maintained. While we did not test when changing I wonder if the corrosive quality eroded the integrity of the lubricating oil cooler. I was able to clear the alarms.

[ciscokid69]

Rob, Good point: if continuity is lost, replace the caps. It would be nice if metallic caps came onto the market. I will be exploring the options for setting up system for regular fresh water flush. Really appreciate your timely replies. Scott

[ciscokid69]

Tony, Thanks for reply. In regards to the 6.7 HX, Cummins does show the HX core (part # 5273349) and housing (5289419) on their QuickServe online parts catalog as separate items. Do they seal them or otherwise make the core not removable at factory assembly? I thought I understood that the 5.9 HX was a single unit. I hope there will be enough 6.7s in the market to prompt the casting of metallic caps for the HX.
Greatly appreciate the Forum and overall helpfulness of Seaboard. Scott

[ciscokid69]

The threaded insert on the after cooler spun. Replaced the plastic caps with metallic end caps. HX does not have a metallic option. Zincs weren’t working. Radiator shop reported the HX badly corroded so replaced with a new unit. Plastic caps again but with continuity…at least for now.

I wonder if a brass screw can be tapped into the end of the zinc cap and wired to HX (or after cooler) bolt. Essentially creating an external round to grounding the zincs. Bit of a hassle to change zincs but may provide continuity. What do you think?

[ciscokid69]

Rob, Thanks for the quick reply. If electrical conductivity is damaged, do you have a suggestion for restoring? Only idea I have is small brass screw threaded into zincs caps and routed to cap bolt (with washer) or other location. Calendar years were 5. I am new to all this but still seems to suggest the zincs haven’t been working for some time or I have another issue. Any idea?

Again, thank you for the quick turnaround. Really helps at this end. Scott

[ciscokid69]

New owner. Checking zincs on QSB 6.7. The after cooler zincs are screwed into a round brass (?) sleeve pressed or embedded in after cooler cover. While trying to remove the zinc, the sleeve is slipping and as a result the zinc cap will not unscrew. Suggestions?

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