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    • Cummins Marine Forum Topics
    • Pencil Zinc Install

      This topic has 19 replies, has 12 voices, and was last updated byClark Leighs 2 years ago

      May 8, 2017 at 9:21 am In an effort to not ignore the basics, I’m posting these tips on replacing zincs. The aftercooler and heat exchanger zinc cap threads are 1/2″npt and the gear cooler zincs caps are 3/8″npt.  Having taps of each size in your “zinc kit” is a good idea so you can chase those threads clean.  Thread the new pencils onto your caps and snug them up you do not want them coming lose and banging up the tube ends of your coole…

      Started by: Rob Schepis in: Cummins Marine Engines

      19 Replies
      April 27, 2022 at 5:44 pm I will chime in also. I Rectorseal #5  the zinc threads themselves.    Then I use pliers or a vise and a wrench to tighten the zinc into the cap.   Snug firmly only  as  the smaller ones can be weak and break if overtightened. Seals the threads so they are protected from  the seawater   so they do not degrade, at least not untill the rest of the zinc is gone.    That way they do not fall out of the cap. I  then rectorseal the cap threads  for th…

      Last Post by: Clark Leighs posted: 2 years ago

    • Engine flush fittings.

      This topic has 10 replies, has 7 voices, and was last updated byDan 4 years ago

      August 16, 2019 at 8:10 am I see Seaboard has bronze in line flush fittings for cummins engines. Is there any more sizes available? I’m looking for different barb end sizes. I have a few boats I work on that I would really like to add the ability to flush easier. Most of the boats are live aboards. 1 1/4 ,1 1/2 1 inch. I probably can cobble something together but those bronze fittings are real nice.

      Started by: john in: General Discussion

      10 Replies
      February 14, 2020 at 1:39 pm For some reason the forum won’t allow me to post direct links Try here http://www.marineeast.com/a_sch/sch_lst.asp?cid=1 and here http://www.marineeast.com/a_sch/sch_det.asp?cid=03&pid=03_02 The banjo fittings are bulletproof this where you looked? http://www.banjovalves.com

      Last Post by: Dan posted: 4 years ago

    • Cold climate starting

      This topic has 4 replies, has 4 voices, and was last updated byKraig Kilger 4 years ago

      September 24, 2019 at 1:30 pm This is a well weathered topic, I’ve been reading the many threads regarding cold starts and hope the members can help me with some alternative ideas. First I’ve got a pair of 6BTA’s 370 hp 2003 vintage with just over 3000 hours on each, pre-heat system disabled by the previous owner and block heaters installed. The block heaters work great when the boat is in the slip but I live on an island and have it on a mooring buoy 90% of the time. After…

      Started by: Joe in: Cummins Marine Engines

      4 Replies
      January 7, 2020 at 3:20 pm I installed 250w Wolverines low on the side of the oil pan of my QSC’s, and I used a Dremel with flap wheel sander to make quick work of the paint. If you have shore power there is no reason not do use these as they do a great job of keeping your ER dry and free of rust with relatively low power usage.

      Last Post by: Kraig Kilger posted: 4 years ago

    • QSB 6.7 Heat exchanger corrosion

      This topic has 12 replies, has 5 voices, and was last updated byRob Schepis 4 years ago

      April 19, 2019 at 5:19 am At 2000 hour service heat exchanger badly corroded. Radiator shop supporting large diesel shop could not get core out. Have owned boat for 2 years. Zincs in heat exchanger have shown little wear during that time. Corrosion and little zinc wear seem inconsistent. Thanks to previous advice from Seaboard, I learned the QSB 6.7 after cooler had plastic caps. (Discovered when unable to remove zincs.) When changing out plastic after cooler cap…

      Started by: ciscokid69 in: Cummins Marine Engines

      12 Replies
      May 24, 2019 at 5:30 am That unusual wear in the pictured zinc could be the result of erosion due to it’s location in the water flow and small pcs of debris (old zinc pcs, sand, etc) that have settled down and accumulated around it that is continually blasting the zinc with the water flow. Next time you remove it, stick your pinky in the hole and feel around it and see if you feel loose gritty material surrounding the zinc port.

      Last Post by: Rob Schepis posted: 4 years ago

    • Oil in expansion tank

      This topic has 5 replies, has 4 voices, and was last updated byTony Athens 4 years ago

      May 16, 2019 at 11:49 am Picked up debris on intake for raw water and cooked the impeller. Engine temp got to 218 degrees before shutting down. Fixed raw water side. Discovered engine oil in expansion tank. Engine oil is clean. Down a quart from previous day check. QSB 6.7 Called for help but would welcome input. I am not very knowledgeable but current assumption is an engine oil cooler is pushing oil into coolant. Thanks

      Started by: ciscokid69 in: Cummins Marine Engines

      5 Replies
      May 21, 2019 at 5:48 am I’d be washing out the coolant system and do a 1st class pressure check at 25-30 PSI with the system empty. I have not seen a failed engine OC on either a QSB 5.9 or 6.7.. How much oil was in the coolant.. A quart would be super obvious.. Some “scum” is normal on old coolant. Tony

      Last Post by: Tony Athens posted: 4 years ago

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