- This topic has 1 reply, 2 voices, and was last updated 3 years ago by
.
-
Topic
-
Hello CMC,
I have a new to me boat built in 1998 with Cummins 6BTA motors. And yes, Tony I will be requesting another hour of your time this week. And for anyone else asking themselves if Tony’s time is worth the price of admission, I would say it has been money well spent.Original from the factory
Serial # CPL Model
45548866 2208 B5.9-M3 (370)
45540330 2208 B5.9-M3 (370)The boat when purchased had been used hard by its previous owners and they had done very little maintenance unless it was required to just operate the boat. At some point, the previous owners replaced the motors going the long block route using “non branded” long blocks. To be blunt I bought the boat for the hull with the intention of a complete rebuild or replacement of all systems to bring the boat to my standards. The original owner did not remember why he was told he needed new long blocks or even if he got them but after enough conversation with him, he admitted that he and his son usually drove the boat “full out”.
After purchase of the boat, I had it delivered to a Cummins mechanic and had the motors pulled. After basic disassembly including the removal of the heads, it was verified using part numbers from the various assemblies that the long block swap had happened and that the long blocks used were not OEM Cummins. Further, the jugs were scored and rusted and the cylinders had damage from the exhaust valves hitting the cylinder faces on both motors. At this point, I decided to purchase genuine Cummins long blocks and start with those as a base. The local Cummins supplier provided long blocks with a CPL of 1975 as being compatible with my original CPL of 2208. The mechanic then replaced the injectors (the price was close to an injector rebuild), had the turbos rebuilt, replaced starters/alternators, and sandblasted and repainted all of the reusable parts. I took the transmissions to a local marine transmission shop and them rebuilt. The motors were then reassembled and installed in the boat.
At the same time the motor work was being done I had the bottom stripped, reconditioned, epoxied and then repainted and I replaced or reworked many of the boat’s other systems.
I then took a 4-day 368-mile (27hr) shakedown cruise driving the boat from Lantana FL to Tampa FL across lake Okeechobee. The trip had a number of adventures that are beer-worthy but do not add to this post. My opinion is that the work done by both the mechanic and the transmission guy was very good and I would recommend both group’s services. With that said there are a few minor things that need to be tuned and that is the purpose of this post.
Since it is always requested, I have attached a number of general motor pics.
Q1. I have what appears to be a coolant leak on my port motor at the gasket (3921926) where the Water Transfer Connection (3920946) sits on the Exhaust Manifold (3922122). There is what appears to be an unusual collar under where one of the Hex Flange Bolts that connect to the Water Transfer Connection (ImageQ1). I am assuming this collar is part of the leak issue and so am considering removing the Water Transfer Connection and taking it to a machine shop to have the collar removed and using a new Hex Flange Bolt (3902460) of the proper size (M10 X 1.5 X 25) and hardness (class 10.9) to reattached the Water Transfer Connection with a new gasket.
http://www.carl.net/sbmar/ImageQ1.jpgQ2. On the port motor, I also appear to have 3 fuel leaks from the high-pressure pump (ImageQ2). Assuming this is true do I just need to tighten the bolts, holding the flange that appears to be leaking?
http://www.carl.net/sbmar/ImageQ2.jpgQ3. After 27 hours of engine operation, there is a coating of what looks like belt dust on the front of my new motors. Is this normal and will it stop or should I wash down my motors occasionally to keep them clean?
Thank you,
Carl.
You must be logged in to reply to this topic.