Jacking point and Help please

[Stephen Oliver]

HI Guys

Just starting the process of replacing the raw water pump on my port engine – as per usual almost no access and to make matters worse it looks like the engine mount (cast part) bolts are rusted in place – it looks like the previous owner never even looked at the pump and just left it and now I think its been leaking a while – things are rusting up well.

Access is pretty dire so if I cannot get the bolts out i’m going to have to resort to either a) jacking the rear of the engine clear of the engine mount platforms (tall fibreglass sections that eliminate any easy access to the bolts) so that I can get a socket on – or b) if that fails i’m going to have to remove the engine.. which is a tad expensive but not horrendous work wise. there are some things I could do while its out also.

So i’m looking for some info on where I can jack the engine the timing gear end – and if my idea of jacking it clear (probably 2-3″) is viable

I’d also like to know where on the hull you guys jack the engine from – i’m thinking using a couple of sheets of 1″ ply to put the jack on to spread the load and have them resting on the hull itself.. thoughts?

Steve

Topic

[Stephen Oliver]

HI Rob

Sorry no pictures yet.. but i’ll try and get some – my business is taking up my valuable spare time 🙂 so i’m pushed to get the stuff done.

After reassembly today – lots of skin missing.. horrible horrible job made horrible because of the engine bed design. A few bits of hull cut away would make it quite easy! I’m a bit sore now.. but glad its getting closer to finish. I have to say i’m stunned at the raw water pump location and the intake position.. there is a small protrusion at the base of the engine block that is right in the way of the intake pipe so I struggled the get the angle I needed!

So got the new pump in – not too hard all but the fuel lines in the way – got the fuel cooler removed (already gone on SB engine) and replaced the fuel line with one to the connection block – it will be going when I redo the filtration but not yet.

My issue now is sourcing an engine mount as the thread is stuffed its a bushings Inc DF-477-M3 i think – but there are no markings, so just going by the website recommendation –

Any idea on the weight of a 330hp 6bta with a zf220a hanging off it? i’m assuming between 1200 and 1600lbs – I dont want to replace them all at the moment – but will have to replace the rear 2 on the port engine – i’ve took measurements so I can set them up again to the right height. Nowhere in Aus sells the mounts. So looking at US…

Steve

edit – sorry not new to me as we have had it a year and a half – but this issue was new to me as I noticed sea water in the bilge area from the pump. maintenance was obviously not done by previous owner as impeller was really worn. I’m slowly turning the engines around the SBmar way.. but its taking time and lots of patience.

[Rob Schepis]

No pics? Progress …. but a lot of bloody knuckles and a few four letter words I’m sure. No doubt you’ll be putting all back together with a good grease followed up by engine room TLC. Is this boat new to you?

[Stephen Oliver]

Well we have progress…

Bought the hydraulic kit and used 1″ ply under the sump and the hull to put a spreader in.. lifted it enough for our purposes.

The 2 rearmost bolts came out using a bar on the spanner, top engine isolator nut was solid so wasn’t coming off so engine mount bracket had to come off. 2 days of penetrating stuff on the last bolt with a rounded head.. nothing – bolt remover used, chewed the head then slipped, belting the hell out of it with sharp chisels – cut into it but wouldn’t break the bond between bolt head and bracket, finally resorted to a reciprocating saw with a heavy Metal Blade, 5 mins later, head gone bracket off. The annoying thing was I then got the remaining stud out by hand, no grips, nothing..

5 minutes later pump out, 5 minutes after that, fuel cooler gone.

Isolator is stuffed as the thread is chewed out ( suspect someone cross threaded it), so need a new one but look like a US sourced one dual flex by bushings Inc, but no idea on part number as nothing is stamped on it!

The good thing that came out of this was it highlighted that both rear engine mount / isolators were loose as the nuts were not fully tight against the bracket

Steve

[Stephen Oliver]

Tony Athens wrote:

Send your pics to me at [email protected]

Tony

Thanks Tony – I’ll try again – but i’ll forward one to you also.

Rob Schepis wrote:

A small portable hydraulic “porta power” could be real handy for stuff like this …. is one easily/readily available by you? You can borrow mine – you pay shipping!

Thanks for the offer Rob 🙂 – I can get them locally for not much – hadnt even considered it. I even reckon the bodywork spreader (880lbs) would work and I can get between the sump and hull easily including 1″ ply.

Bob Patterson wrote:

I used our porta power jack. I mounted it between the front engine mount base on the stringer up to the coolant reservoir bracket close to the engine.

Thanks Bob appreciate the picture – says a thousand words.. good to see the longer rams can be used.

glenn111 wrote:

I’ve had some luck with a small bottle jack from any auto parts store place on the “ledge” of the oil pan-to-block connection. There’s not a lot to grab onto, but you pick up a few inches of height instead of the bottom of the oil pan. Spread out the engine weight with a 7 sq/in block of 1″ or so ply wood. My hull is solid fiberglass. Easy on the Stbd side…UGH! on the port engine.

Cheers Glenn – I considered it – but dont have a great deal of room in front of the engine to get the handle – but it would work – I just reckon now the porta power would come in handy elsewhere..

Steve

Edit looks like the attachment works now – also forgot to say the 2 closest bolts we managed to break free.. still yet to attack the rearmost one.

[glenn111]

I’ve had some luck with a small bottle jack from any auto parts store place on the “ledge” of the oil pan-to-block connection. There’s not a lot to grab onto, but you pick up a few inches of height instead of the bottom of the oil pan. Spread out the engine weight with a 7 sq/in block of 1″ or so ply wood. My hull is solid fiberglass. Easy on the Stbd side…UGH! on the port engine.

[Bob Patterson]

I used our porta power jack. I mounted it between the front engine mount base on the stringer up to the coolant reservoir bracket close to the engine.

[Rob Schepis]

A small portable hydraulic “porta power” could be real handy for stuff like this …. is one easily/readily available by you? You can borrow mine – you pay shipping!

[Tony Athens]

Send your pics to me at [email protected]

Tony

[Stephen Oliver]

Thanks Tony – I’ll give patience a go and some kroil…

I did attach a picture – not sure why it isnt there.. so I have reattached now.

edit – ok so the file wont attach… not sure what i’m doing wrong – it will upload but then no attachments are shown when I submit…

Steve

[Tony Athens]

Some pics would help, but this is what I’d do in this sequence:

1) spray all the rusty bolts and engine mount stud and mounts bolts with something like PB Blaster.. Do that a few times the day before.

2) You can remove the top stud nut and isolator bolts without worry–The engine will not move as gravity is holding it in place.

3) Now you have to come up with “something” that you can get between the bottom of the hull and the right front corner of the flat aluminum oil pan.. That corner is more than strong enough to lift that corner of the engine approx 3-6MM.. It just has to be safe and secure and will not slip out. You are only lifting about 400 Lbs, so think along those lines.

4) Then, you have to get the mount out of the way to get access..

https://www.sbmar.com/articles/dealing-with-the-seawater-pump-on-a-cummins-marine-6bta-5-9/

If you are not sure, post pics of your plans..

Tony

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