Ball valve

[William Walter]

So my son who is broke with 3 beautiful children purchased a new to him boat last year before he knew number 3 was on the way.It’s a 2001 formula pc. I looked at the boat and we came up with a bunch of items for repair. The boat has some good bones and was a good buy but one among many other items I insisted he fix was the waste thru hull. The valve handle is stripped and stuck in the open position so we removed the ball valve.As he is broke and looking for the cheap fix we decided to leave the through hull portion. I would have preferred to replace the whole thing. I think it’s a bronze thru hull I’m wondering if that can be mated to a brass valve.Not my choice but wondering if that is an ok solution.

Topic

[Rob Schepis]

Would definitely make sense to replace the thru-hull, especially considering it will need to be cut down to proper height for the flange adapter. I agree that the overboard option has its uses and should not be abandoned. 

[William Walter]

Rob Thanks for that info. I noticed slight movement of the thru hull portion when we removed so I’m nervous about that.it seems like if you need the flange adapter and the ball valve you might as well replace the whole thing. I was only looking for a cheap solution to help him out but it seems like there is none. He did mention just plugging the hole as he doesn’t ever pump overboard.The macerator is also inop .personally I like the overboard feature but only use it at end of season to really drain the tank and winterize. I may take you up on your offer for the thru hull tool. Thank you 

[Rob Schepis]

Bill,

Thru-hulls are straight threads (NPS).  Valves are tapered (NPT).   Improper thread engagement is probably why that valve is sitting so high on that thru-hull. Scary.

You can remove that valve and leave that thru-hull and the way to do this is to use a flange adapter and then the inline valve.  The flange adapter is called an adapter because it get’s you from NPS to NPT.  The flange adapter will replace that nut on the thru-hull.  Use a thru-hull tool to hold that thru-hull when you take things apart and add the new, if you don’t want to have to re-bed that thru-hull.  If you need to borrow the tool just LMK.

Here’s a good reference:  https://www.groco.net/products/valves-seacocks/flanged-valves/ibvf-flange-adaptor

[Clark Leighs]

Do you have any used marine equipment shops or chandleries in your area.

If so go talk to them and ask about a bronze valve.   You might go online for used marine equipment and ask there also.

I will also mention that some valve specialty houses offer bronze valves that are not necessarily  “marine” rated yet will last many years.     I’ve done that.

I suspect that a brass valve will not last long if as mentioned the boat is in seawater.   Boats have been sunk by brass fittings in applications in seawater.

[Kyle Routh]

If using in saltwater I would definitely not use brass.  Lots of horror stories about brass in saltwater out there.

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