6CTA8.3-M2, TLC, 1000hrs, Tasmania, Australia

[Tony]

Hi Tony,

it is Tony here from Tasmania, Australia. I was talking to you guys on the forum a little while ago about a 1997 Riviera 39 Flybridge cruiser I was looking to buy.

I now have the boat here after bringing it 650 nautical miles from Sydney to Hobart. The boat went pretty well and now I am looking at what needs to be done to look after the engines.

They are 6CTA8.3-M2’s with just over 1000 miles on them. Coling system has not been off for the previous owner as far as I know – about 7 years. Other than impellers…

High on the list list are things like the salt water cooling side and getting the props tuned. I have spoken with someone local about the props, and am planning to slip the boat next month to get them done. I am hoping to get about 200 extra revs from them – at 1900 revs I am using about 12.5gph each side. I got about 2550 revs at WOT but that was not with full fuel and water…

As mine are the M2 model there are some differences for me identifying the right parts so it would be good to talk about that too so I am ordering the right parts.

I just wanted to get your advice about how you recommend I attack different areas for maintenance. First up I was thinking about doing the gearbox oil coolers, but I wasn’t sure if them being early in the cooling system that it might impact on other parts or if I should do the heat exchangers first for example (and work backwards so to speak?).

Obviously if money wasn’t an issue I could do it all at once but it would be good to have your advice on the order of priority for my case.

Shipping and import duties being another thing for me to take into account being on this side of the world…

Thanks for your time.

Tony

Topic

[Stephen Oliver]

tonus7272 wrote:

Holes are uneven. Damaged?

Probably just been bashed by bits of anodes – Mine were similar on my 6bta I damaged the core removing it it was that stuck – still got it repaired and all good now..so far…

tonus7272 wrote:

Both together…

Dodgy bolt holes?

One of them looks to have been helicoiled.. the other chewed out.. probably needs helicoiling unless the housing is that chewed out internally too.. Looks pretty rough like its been leaking a fair bit!

Looks like its been looked after by a standard “pro” marine mechanic – certainly based on what I have seen on the boats I have looked at..!

Steve

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Tony

[Tony]

Both together…

Dodgy bolt holes?

[Tony]

Holes are uneven. Damaged?

[Tony]

More port AC….

[Tony]

Port AC 🙁

[Tony Athens]

Lots of WD40 or soak the entire thing in #2 Diesel– Back an forth–It will come..

Tony

[Tony]

The core is not coming out easy…

[Tony]

Thanks Tony. Will do.

Cheers

[Tony Athens]

Let’s get the core out of the aftercooler and see what you got.

Let’s get the exhaust elbow off the turbo for a good look inside the exhaust outlet showing the turbine and the surrounding housing…

Tony

[Tony]

STB AC

1 user thanked author for this post.

Stephen Oliver

[Tony]

Port

[Tony]

Port – sn 45395393

No wide angle photos for this one ?

[Tony]

AC out…

[Tony]

And some more

Thanks

[Tony]

Thanks Tony.

More pics. Pump and oil cooler off STB. AC next…

[Tony Athens]

Tony,

Pretty good job on the pics, although a tad farther away would even be be better,, I like to see “more”..

Definitely 6CTA 8.3 M-2’s with the ND fuel system and later type “upside down” seawater pumps.. Thehave been changed at sometime in there history., but they are still subject to been watched very closely as they do not tolerate any seal leakage…

Things look very clean but if that is new paint, then it’s really hard to tell

#1————-Aftercooler– You need to get it off then engine and “on the bench” with the core removed.. That is Number #1.

#2——- No pics of the exhaust ??.

Go thru my 1st email again do follow up with what I need so I can help you more..I want to “see” the rest of the engine.

Tony

[Tony]

Hi Tony

Thanks heaps.

Here is the easy side. Starboard. 45395370.

I have flow scans fitted, but they have not been calibrated as far as I know. With the 600nm trip they seemed to be accurate for what that is worth….

Cheers

Tony

[Tony Athens]

#1 —- Aftercoolers–Off the engine and on the bench. good articles & pics on this site on “how too”

#2——-Seawater pumps– on the bench, and impellers, cams and wear plate out.. Then replace as needed and feel how the shaft spins and look for “green stuff where the bearings are.

#3– gear coolers

#4– Main Heat X.

#5–Propping– check tach accuracy at 2200-2400 RPM in neutral at the dock. WOT no-load should be 2900 ++.. Loaded for bear, the engine needs to see 2700+ and see it easy.

#6—- How are you measuring GPH?

#7-Post serial numbers

#8–post good pics of what you are working with.. M-2’s are old engines.

Tony

[Author]

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