4bta Aftercooler disassembled Pic

[Clinton Rowley]

I disassembled my 4bta aftercoolers today.

Disassembly went well. Port needed very mild coaxing to get the core out of the housing. Starboard slid right out. Maintenance history is unknown, but I do suspect they have been serviced before. There was grease at the o ring mating surfaces and anti seize on the bolts. They have never been freshwater flushed, freshwater flush set up is on the “to do” list.

Notes:
1. A loose piece of anode rod
2. Where the loose piece of anode rubbed
3. A smaller loose piece of anode
4. UPC Sticker, google says the # on it is for an anode
5. UPC sticker in the other aftercooler… wow

Questions
Pic F 6 Is that a temp sensor? Does it dictate grid heater on?
Pic F 7 What is this bracket for?

Any comments welcomed.

Topic

[Clinton Rowley]

Test was done by:
1-1/2″ “Jim Caps” to plug the water in/out

1/2″ nipple, 3/4″x1/2″ threaded bushing, and a 3/4″ gauge block screwed into an anode port.

All of this can be found in the plumbing area of the home depot, the gauge block will likely come with a 15# gauge they are used for testing gas piping.

I also used a 4″ Jim cap, screeched over one end of the aftercooler core, then stood the aftercooler vertical and filled with vinegar as part of the cleaning process.

[Rob Schepis]

Clinton, Great thread with a great outcome. Thanks for posting this and especially the excellent photos.

[Clinton Rowley]

I am a very luck man in deed!

20 PSI and Holding

[Tony Athens]

Clinton,

You have no idea how lucky you are.. It’s so obvious the aftercooler was sitting with saltwater in it for years and yet somehow it survived………….Hope your own pictures, and that this experience will convince you to leave fresh water in the system when sitting at the dock..

Not sure if you know it, but you cannot buy these anymore

[Clinton Rowley]

OK, no more over thinking this. I’ll put this together with alco metalube ant test.

[Tony Athens]

Use ALCO METALUBE for all

[Clinton Rowley]

Thanks Brandon. Nothing attaches to my bracket so I’ll source shorter air horn bolts and put the bracket in my spare parts box.

Good points Dan. I’ll be using the metalube that SB sent with the orings. The permatex copper is a spray silicone, contains no copper or any other metal, it’s copper in color only, likely a marketing gimmic. The intent would be to restore what looks like a thin silicone layer that was originally on the surface.

[Dan]

“I might spray come Permatex copper spry gasket”

Copper + aluminum = bad idea
Copper + aluminum + saltwater = very bad idea

Use Metalube grease

[Clinton Rowley]

Here is a picture the the aftercooler housing. I think the OEM coated the inside and the area where the o ring seats with a thin layer of rubber or silicone, black in picture. There are areas where this black rubbery coating is gone, leaving a .010″ + – “step” between the rubber coating and aluminum. There is some minor pitting where the rubber coating is not covering the aluminum. I might spray come Permatex copper spry gasket to add protection of aluminum, fill the minor pits, and blend the .010″ step.

[Brandon Cassady]

The bracket in pic F is where my throttle cable is secured before it gets to the throttle arm. Tried to attach a pic but it’s over 10mb.

[Clinton Rowley]

Since this picture I plugged one end, filled the tubes with vinegar and bore brushed each tube. Everything is looking good.

[Dan]

Clinton
Post some clear pics of the housing where the O ring locates after you clean it up

[Author]

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