[Nigel Kittow]

cheers Tony. I have passed your suggestion onto the mechanic. If I understand him correctly he is asking if it is ok to remove the fitting the solenoid screws into as ge feels it is stuck there? He us putting an outboard bulb as you suggested to try and force some diesel through. He said there is absolutely nothing getting through when cranking the engine. No dribbles or bubbles so he feels something stuck at the solenoid 

Does that make sense?

[Nigel Kittow]

I see you have a VDO transmission sender listed as 28 bar/400psi. Would this be a suitable replacement for a 25 bar 360 psi VDO sender in the ZF 63a of mine?
Thanks

[Nigel Kittow]

Thanks guys. The filter in the problem engine had a paper internal pleat and had heaps more resistance than an all metal filter in the other engine. I was very lucky to find a replacement metal filter on the island so that has been replaced. Checked the pressure with a mechanical gauge and quickly apparent the electrical gauge/sender was faulty that also explained the fluctuations. Do you happen to have the thread size of the sender in the 63A?
Appreciate once again your expert advice and support.???

[Nigel Kittow]

Thanks Tony. Cleaned the filter, which did not seem dirty but pressures climbed though they were still erratic at best. It was going in and out if gear though. I removed/replaced all the electrical connections on the sender and gauge and now have a steady pressure on the gauge at idle of 15bar though it was 17 and the other side us at 17bar. Seems I had a dirty filter with electrical issues.
My plan is to swap the sendors over and check wether sender issue or circuit and replace all oil with 15w40. Also check with manual gauge that what you see us what you get.
Appreciate your advice. Any further gratefully accepted. Like brain surgery, it’s easy when you know how?

[Nigel Kittow]

Thanks Tony fir a prompt reply. . Will do. The transmission pressuregauge is electric and when the transmission pressure seemed low but it was working, I assumed I had an electrical problem. However now the pressure has dropped further on the gauge and it no longer goes into gear I started to believe it us telling the truth. I will check the pressure mechanically as well

[Nigel Kittow]

Decided to wait before pulling the turbo as the spare elbow was not in good shape and the turbo is currently spinning freely. I need to use the boat this week too.
There is little fall in the elbow So easy to imagine how some water could get back into turbo.
The distance from the top of the flange to the boat floor is 210mm so allowing clearance I guess we have about 150mm of available rise.
I have attached a drawing for your comments. It would allow an easy connection To the current exhaust with little to no modification.
The port exhaust mixer elbow is unpainted stainless which suggests it may have been replaced at some time. It too has minimal fall.
Internet is a bit dodgy so hope it all loads ok
Thanks

[Nigel Kittow]

I have a real need to use the boat next week and just want to run past you guys what I plan to do on Saturday and get your opinion.
1. Plenty of photos of the setup. Will get some of the port engine as well .
2. Remove the elbow and inspect for water ingress into the turbo exhaust housing. Photos
3. Replace the elbow with a pressure tested spare(which hopefully I have access to. )
4. Ensure the turbine is spinning freely.
5. In a week or two pull out the whole turbo, inspect the exhaust housing. Design and build a riser that prevents the problem happening again. Rebuild the core.
6.Check the port engine as well

Thoughts?
Is it possible to repair the elbow/mixer and still use it in the exhaust design?

Many thanks for sharing your expertise
Cheers, Nigel

[Nigel Kittow]

I have read your tip sheets and it seems that it will be the problem. I have what i believe is a stock cummins elbow/mixer bolted directly to the turbo =. It does run down hill but is pretty easy to imagine with a leak in the jacket how water could leak back into the turbo housing. Will get photos this weekend and post back.
I am just sure how I am going to fix it here in Vanuatu. Limited resources at best.
Cheers, Nigel

[Nigel Kittow]

Thanks Tony. I have posted more details to Rob. The Caribbean 32 is a common production boat that is still built today to the same design so I have assumed that exhaust design would have been sorted. I am following up though and trying to find out if there are have been previous exhaust design issues.
Photos to follow
Cheers

[Nigel Kittow]

Thanks Rob. I will give you some more info and get some photos when we strip it next.
Caribbean 32 are a flybridge sportfisher built in Australia. They are the same design as a Bertram 31 and were being built under the Bertram label under licence. When Bertram went out of smaller boats, International Marine continued to build them but under the Caribbean label. So it is common production boat. I am making enquiries at the moment to try and establish if they have any exhaust design issues. The twin Cummins 210 is their standard engine configuration.
I have owned the boat for coming up 5years and about 1200 hours. First 18 months were in New Zealand then 3 1/2 years in Vanuatu. In Vanuatu she is used as a private game fishing boat with most trips being 10 mins around 1000rpm til warm, 30 mins at 2000 rpm, 6 hours at 1250RPM, a run home and 5 minute idle to cool. She lives in a flat calm marina.We do around 250-300 hours per year.
I am trying to find if the previous owner had any issues.
History
April 2016 the stb engine was progressivly producing more black smoke. It then suddenly poured out black smoke. Pulled the turbo and had a hole burnt through the heat shield, This turbo could have been 5000hours old though. Replaced with a cheap core assembly off email. Still smoked. The exhaust turbine housing was showing some corrosion and the space between the turbine and housing was bigger than thought ideal. Replaced the turbine housing. Ran fine for a round 6 months 75 hours. The first time runfter it had not been used for a month had black smoke pouring out under load. The turbine was jammed. Mechanic felt to much side to side play in the shaft.
Put the problem down to cheap part off ebay and replaced the core assembly with expensive genuine Holset part. As the mechanic was fitting it and tightening the clamp I do recall it jamming and he had to wriggle and re seat it to a position where it ran free.
Ran fine for 6 months again and then after not being used for a month was jammed again. Freed the turbine by hand and it ran fine for 2 months until not being used again for 3 weeks and again it was jammed. Freed it up by hand again and runs fine, no smoke and pulls revs.
We did check the oil feed when we replaced the core which seemed fine but did not prime the bearings.
I am awaiting arrival of a rebuild kit and new oil feed line. When we strip it down I will get plenty of photos and get back in touch.
Appreciate your advice

[Nigel Kittow]

Just another thought.
I don’t think the bearings were pre primed with oil and the engine cranked without starting at installation. Is it possible the bearings were flogged on first startup resulting in increased play and so contacting the housing now?

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