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  • #25996

    David Carter
    Participant
    Vessel Name: TenaSeahorse
    Engines: 6cta8.3
    Location: Knoxville
    Country: USA

    My port cooler is a lot more brown then the strb. What could that mean.

    #25984

    David Carter
    Participant
    Vessel Name: TenaSeahorse
    Engines: 6cta8.3
    Location: Knoxville
    Country: USA

    Itā€™s a Hi-Star 47. Seahorse. Made in tawain built heavy I believe over 50000 lbs.
    2004. Itā€™s got a bow thruster an stabilizers

    #25944

    David Carter
    Participant
    Vessel Name: TenaSeahorse
    Engines: 6cta8.3
    Location: Knoxville
    Country: USA

    I also donā€™t know anything about stabilizers. Any help on maintaining them or dangers of them If you notice the one stabilizer gage has a broken needle. The previous owner said he ran them to keep them operating. Also the hynautic steering can I donā€™t remember how much pressure theyā€™re supposed to have. There must be one for shifting also I havenā€™t noticed it yet.

    #25935

    David Carter
    Participant
    Vessel Name: TenaSeahorse
    Engines: 6cta8.3
    Location: Knoxville
    Country: USA

    1 stabilizer and a fluid box in support of not sure yet what goes in or how much
    The door goes to the back of washer an dryer
    2 hot water tank and expansion tank
    3 front port side of strb engine
    4 engine info
    5 top of strb
    6 center isle
    7 port side of port engine. Looks like something is leaking.
    8 possible belt size on engine and the hydraulic pump.
    Iā€™d also like to get the digital meters you recommended. Which should I get Iā€™m not sure if I should get three with a panel to mount them in. I would like recommendations on the cooler kit I need. Do you see anything in the hoses. The wires on the exhaust I donā€™t where they go I havenā€™t found any gauges other then the normal volt meter temp, oil pressure.
    Any other things you would recommend to add. I tell my grandkids im as broke as a bag of glass. But I canā€™t afford to have another boat burn up.

    #25929

    David Carter
    Participant
    Vessel Name: TenaSeahorse
    Engines: 6cta8.3
    Location: Knoxville
    Country: USA

    1 port side of strb engine
    2 strb engine
    3 strb engine
    4 strb side strb engine
    5 front of strb engine

    #25920

    David Carter
    Participant
    Vessel Name: TenaSeahorse
    Engines: 6cta8.3
    Location: Knoxville
    Country: USA

    1 exhaust on port engine looking aft
    2 port engine strb side
    3 port engine top
    4 snyc
    5 fireboy
    6 starboard engine
    7 strb aftercooler
    8 strb turbo

    #25911

    David Carter
    Participant
    Vessel Name: TenaSeahorse
    Engines: 6cta8.3
    Location: Knoxville
    Country: USA

    1 my fuel manifold
    2 I havenā€™t figured out what this little box is
    3 my generator
    4 looking from aft forward port engine
    5 port shaft
    6 back of port
    7 port side of port engine
    8 looking aft on port turbo

    #25857

    David Carter
    Participant
    Vessel Name: TenaSeahorse
    Engines: 6cta8.3
    Location: Knoxville
    Country: USA

    I really appreciate that I can post these questions and to have someone of your caliber to answer.
    Under Tonyā€™s tips in the electrical section you have typical dc distribution.
    I have a manual switch on the combiner and I disconnected it. When I check voltage with the engine running thereā€™s only one battery being charged. Iā€™m getting the leads labeled. I ran each engine and checked the voltage on the batteries. The engine batteries are stand alone unless that combiner is engaged. I also ran the inverter and the other three phase charger separately to label what is charging what.
    Iā€™m trying to figure out the items on the engine. The ones I posted pictures of. They look like relays. I see one is the aux. mag switch I see it on the starter crank fuel solenoid schematic but not really sure what itā€™s for. Also what is the alt. Diode do Itā€™s next to the 10amp reset button in my pictures. I see its changeable Iā€™m wondering if it could cause my problem.
    It may be a couple of days before I can spend much time tracing the system. Iā€™m going to try to sneak over and take pictures of the whole engine room. I want to do any maintenance I can to prevent any future problems. I need o rings and lube for the the aftercoolers. Maybe belts and hoses. Iā€™ll Start another thread for that. I donā€™t have much on my specific boat and systems Hi-Star 47 Iā€™ve looked on the net but nothing out there.
    So again thank you so much I will purchase as much as I can from your company.

    #25822

    David Carter
    Participant
    Vessel Name: TenaSeahorse
    Engines: 6cta8.3
    Location: Knoxville
    Country: USA

    I just looked at your typical dc circuit for twin engines. I got the idea if thatā€™s the diagram your looking for I think mine is close to that. I had a house bank of two 8ds and a separate inverter bank of two 8ds. I was running out of inverter power in less then 8 hrs so I connected the house and inverter banks. Most of my stuff was running off the inverter and only a few lights off the house. I will try to trace my system But thatā€™s four batteries and I have one for each engine with another in the bow for my thruster. Also a 27 for the gen.

    #25812

    David Carter
    Participant
    Vessel Name: TenaSeahorse
    Engines: 6cta8.3
    Location: Knoxville
    Country: USA

    I spent the yesterday tracing my batteries as far as what charger is charging what. I have an inverter that charges and also a phase three smart charger. Not to mention the 22sl alternators. I turned both charger off and still had the 14.7 output from the alternator. The alternator 22sl has a negative and what I believe to be a two prong plug for an internal regulator. There is only one wire coming out of this connection it goes into a connection that has a red an black leaving and going into a harness that raps around engine with many splits and relays Iā€™m guessing. Each engine has a single 8d that is either isolated or switched to parallel. The hot from the alternator goes to the starter and that sprouts other hots Anyway I will do what it takes to track down the problem. Iā€™m not sure the best way to proceed. Must I strip the harness and track each wire thru out. Or maybe add a jumper to my ohmmeter and try to find the other end of each lead. What a mess. Would there be a way to check the internal rectifier like maybe I should take the one wire coming out of the two prong connection on alternator and run it to batteries or just disconnect and look for a response. Looking on YouTube I see someone had a similar problem and hook up an external rectifier. Thereā€™s not much about an alternator that continues to charge most are about under charging. Itā€™s puzzling that with the heater hook up the output swung 12 to 14.7 and with fuse out of heater itā€™s constantly 14.7. Seems like the rectifier was switching with the heater. I was thinking of switching alternators but I donā€™t want to fry the other one. But stripping the harness to trace the wires is going to be a mess. So if thereā€™s any easier checks I could do before tearing things up Iā€™m in. Please Iā€™m not complaining and will follow your guide. I have more projects to do this winter. Like cleaning after coolers and anything that should be done after a thousand hrs.

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