[Charles Burton]

Many thanks.

[Charles Burton]

I have dedicated starting batteries for each engine with a paralleling relay if required. I am in southern California and really don’t use the preheat before starting so I replaced my 8D with a group size 24 lead acid – works fine. If I were to need a larger amp hour capacity, up to 3 group size 24s will fit in the same volume/battery box as one 8D and still a whole lot easier for me to handle alone.

[Charles Burton]

Be sure to leave the engine on blocks when you are not there. I found that my hydraulic jack had a tiny leak – not perceptible but over night the engine dropped enough to cause the shaft seal to leak and the bilge pumps were just keeping up.

[Charles Burton]

I do not disagree – I think HCL is very appropriate for you and less costly. But for some of us working on the docks, H3PO4 is a good alternative.

[Charles Burton]

Just want to say that Muriatic acid (Hydrochloric acid HCL) and Barnacle Buster (Phosphoric Acid H3PO4) are not the same – phosphoric acid is milder, much safer, and less toxic than hydrochloric acid. Both clean copper, brass, and bronze quite well, especially cleaning the calcium deposits that clog our heat exchangers but the milder phosphoric acid is much less likely to damage the exchangers. Phosphoric acid is more expensive – about $30/gal at home depot and some hardware stores.

[Charles Burton]

When I bought the boat I found that the aftercooler cores were aluminum and I was unable to get the cores out. I bought new aftercoolers from Seaboard 1 year ago, now about 100 hours on them.

I usually try to understand my equipment but just can’t find anything describing the ECM functions. But if it is a non problem I will try to ignore the blinking.
Thanks

[Author]

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