[NoSpeed]

Steve, yes, these are Genuine Holset Turbochargers shipped by UPS ground from their Headquarters in Memphis TN. They had 13 of my model in stock. I am willing to accept a delay due to the more reasonable ground shipping charges, but this will add about 4-5 days to the turnaround time. This model is the HX-40M. The quoted price is before tax and shipping. I will have to paint them. They come with all the gaskets, which I had previously ordered from SB Marine, and will now have to return.

Tom, I am sure Tony, or someone on his team, knows if there is a better solution for my Exhaust Risers. However, I am anxious to get the boat ready for this year’s cruising season, which begins on 7 Feb. I will probably be forced to use the existing risers until I can find a more permanent long-term fix. Thanks for all your suggestions.

[NoSpeed]

The turbo shop has reported back to me the repair would cost about $300 more than replacement with a new one. Consequently, I ordered two of them ($1295 ea.). As for the exhaust riser, I guess we can conclude it is at the root cause of my issue. All of you seem to be in favor of me finding a custom exhaust solution, rather than reinstalling these. The only thing in my favor is that I now cruise mainly in freshwater. I have no idea what will work in that space because of the 12″ minimum space requirement above the spillover point, which is only an inch or so below the base of these riser cans. Anybody here found a solution to this issue in a Bayliner 47? Thanks.

[NoSpeed]

Today, I dropped off the turbo at the shop. They think the issue is probably related to an excessive build up of carbon on the exhaust side, causing a restriction in air flow. They can blast it off. The exhaust riser did not have any similar build up of carbon. It is in good shape and reusable. The bolts had to be cut-off. The coolant failing to gravity feed is still a mystery, however with the 2nd removal of the drain plug, coolant was flowing freely. I installed a petcock. The plan is to put the port engine back together with new coolant, heat wrap and gaskets/bolts/washers. A sea trial will be conducted before removing the starboard turbo. Pictures of the exhaust riser and turbo exhaust prior to cleaning are attached. Thanks.

[NoSpeed]

Rob, yes, I was able to get squarely on 3 of the 4 bolts with the impact wrench. Tony, my mechanic is terminally ill and has gone out of business. I have read your article. Regarding #3, you are correct. Regarding 1), if you mean at rated RPM, this has not been done since a Sea Trial in May 2013. Data has been lost over time. 2) I previously answered that question. 3) My mechanic did perform WOT to 3141 RPM at the dock in neutral and was able to detect the sound of a bad injector. He did believe my issue might be fuel related and intended to return to replace a diaphragm in the fuel injection pump before he became ill. Also, he recommended replacing the exhaust riser bolts in the near future. 4) Yes, both engines start clean, easy and quickly when cold. 5) Aftercoolers were just cleaned per your protocol. Before pics are on a previous page. How do I move forward from this point? Your advice is much appreciated. Thanks.

[NoSpeed]

This weekend, I attempted to extract the exhaust elbow bolts after a generous application of penetrating oil and soak time. I used Rob’s suggested Craftsmen bolt extraction tool set: http://www.searshometownstores.com/product/Craftsman-52166-10-pc-Damaged-BoltNut-Remover-Set?store=&preview=3114&isClearanceItem=F&utm_source=google&utm_medium=cpc&adpos=1o3&utm_campaign-SC%20Shopping&scid=scplp39959097&sc_intid=39959097&gclid=EAIaIQobChMI69uQp7ul3wIVNR6tBh1uIAX0EAQYAyABEgIm3_D_BwE with an impact wrench. Unfortunately, it resulted in rounding off the heads of two of the four bolts. So, I stopped trying and left the other bolts alone. It appears my next step will be to use a grinding wheel to cutoff the heads. To extract the studs from the turbo housing seems best done with the turbo off the engine. I think it may be in my best interest to take the turbo to a shop for the best chance of extracting what will be left of these bolts. Consequently, I am thinking ahead to the next step in the process. I am aware the coolant must be drained from the engine in order to proceed. Since the coolant is old, it might as well be replaced. Currently, the engine has a green colored coolant and I was thinking of moving to a red colored coolant, like Fleetguard ES Complete OAT. So, I got everything ready to drain the system. I started by removing the drain plug: https://www.sbmar.com/wp-content/uploads/2015/09/B-series-Coolant-Drain.jpg . I had the pressure cap off, but when I removed the drain plug, not a single drop of coolant came out! This was a total surprise. Please clue me as to the right path. Thanks.

[NoSpeed]

OK. Will do. Thanks.

[NoSpeed]

Excellent! And, what about the merits of my SS washer idea? What type of washer material is used with the bolts you sell?

[NoSpeed]

Rob, you are correct. The bolts are M8x1.25×25 and are sold at Bolt Depot in class 10.9 for $0.30 each. Here is a link: https://www.boltdepot.com/Product-Details.aspx?product=17503 I feel so ripped off by Cummins. I will be sending those parts back for a refund. Unfortunately, Bolt Depot does not carry this metric flange bolt in class 12.9. I am unsure where it would be found, unless Tony has them. I speculate the backside of that flange is rusted to the washer, which is why the torque required to break them free is so great. Would there be anything wrong with using the zinc plated class 10.9/12.9 steel flange bolt replacements with stainless steel 18-8 or 316 plain washers? Anti-seize lubricant on all the bolt threads, of course. This way, there would be no chance of the steel bolts rusting themselves solid to the washers years later. Wouldn’t this be the best solution? Bolt Depot has the SS washers for just $.10 each: https://www.boltdepot.com/Product-Details.aspx?product=23030 BTW, I ordered a set of those Craftsmen bolt extraction tools you recommended. Thanks.

[NoSpeed]

Are the bolts sold at SB Marine made of class 12.9 alloy steel? Replacement Cummins bolts are class 9.8 medium carbon steel.

[NoSpeed]

I have exposed the turbo bolts/washers and found them to all be seized. Penetrating oil, heat and tapping did not work. The bolts are no longer 10mm in size. Rust has degraded them to a size somewhere between 9 and 10 mm. So, I went down to a 3/8″ socket, which is 9.525mm, but they still would not budge. Rounding of the heads started. Consequently, I will need to cut off the heads with an angle grinder and am concerned what remains of the studs will not be easy to extract. I checked with Cummins. They sell the replacement 10mm Hex Flange Head Cap Screws for $2.12 each and the Plain Washers for $3.51 each. That is a cost of $45.04 for a set of 4. The cost of these turbo bolts/washers at SB Marine is on sale right now for $12, a set of 4! Could you tell me if these are SS bolts and brass washers, which would overcome the rust issue down the road? I think I should get my replacements from SB. Also, any other tips for extracting these bolts would be appreciated. If I fail, I guess it means the turbo has to be pulled and replaced, right? Thanks.

[NoSpeed]

As far as I know, these Shower-type Risers are original to the boat. We are 2nd owners and bought it in mid-2013. It’s 1st lifetime was spent in the PNW, a salt water environment. Do you suspect this to be the root cause of my issue? As to corrosion, when my mechanic was installing the new fuel injectors, he commented about a need to replace the four bolts connecting the Riser to the Turbo Exhaust. Apparently, they need to be soaked in penetrating oil overnight before trying to remove them. Anyway, how should I proceed? Thanks.

[NoSpeed]

Last of 20 pics.

[NoSpeed]

More pics.

[NoSpeed]

Tony, here are more pics, but I do not see anything obvious. Thanks.

[NoSpeed]

OK. I will try to get some more pics next weekend. Thanks.

[NoSpeed]

Final image.

[NoSpeed]

More pics.

[NoSpeed]

This weekend, I cleaned the starboard engine aftercooler. It was in identical condition to the port side. The following images are of my port engine exhaust system and turbo. The intake side of the turbo spins freely and there is no wobble or blade damage. The only obvious thing I saw was a droplet of oil clinging to the base of the intake side of the turbo. You can make it out in the next to last photo (Image 1318). More pics (17 in total) coming in following post(s).

[NoSpeed]

Tony, yes, those pics are before cleaning. It will be another week before I can post photos of the exhaust system and turbo. I’m on it. Thanks.

[NoSpeed]

Rob, yes, these pics are of the core immediately after removal and prior to any cleaning. The two images are of both flat faces. The 2nd one is the air side facing the turbo. The housing is in excellent shape. There is no evidence of corrosion or pitting. I was able to figure out how to flip all the photos, so here they are again. I am now wondering if there is any good reason to do a sea trial just yet. After all, the turbos are just going to spit oil over my newly cleaned aftercoolers, right? Wouldn’t it be best to service the turbos now and then do a sea trial? Thanks.

[Author]

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