Cummins Marine Diesel Repower Specialists › Forums › Cummins Marine Engines › Smartcraft fuel guage hookup
- This topic has 12 replies, 4 voices, and was last updated 6 years ago by Mike Mason.
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March 20, 2018 at 7:28 am #29690
I have a new to me Tiara with Ver 1.0 Diesel Views and 500QSC engines (2006). The fuel management was not hooked up to the vessel views from the factory and I am seeking info on how to do this if it is even possible.
I have not been able to find much online about this subject. -
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April 27, 2018 at 8:37 pm #31603
Update:
My gauge on the tank is mechanical. If I use the below, can I convert to electrical and run to madusa harness? If so, what is the wiring schematic?
Thanks
March 22, 2018 at 8:15 pm #29885Thanks. I am going to do this. Mike
March 22, 2018 at 6:13 am #29827There is no harness, you just run wires from each tank unit to the grey connectors on the Medusa harness (see Corey’s picture). These connectors have a cap on them and my question in my previous post was is something available to plug into these to connect the wires to. If not I will cut them off and use solderless connectors with shrink wrap.
One thing I did learn is if you get the tank lead and the ground mixed up your smartcraft will show 0 gal. You just need to reverse them and the graph and gallons will appear like they should.1 user thanked author for this post.
March 21, 2018 at 9:06 pm #29820Dave. Thanks. Was there a harness used to run to the sender?
March 21, 2018 at 6:02 pm #29811The connectors are under the engine about 1 foot from the 40 pin plug in. Mine are labeled so it is easy to figure out.
After seeing this I remembered plugging in a new depth sounder a few years back on a gas boat with smartcraft.March 21, 2018 at 2:37 pm #29806Is the harness you tapped into under the helm or down in the engine bay where the 40 pin harness plugs into the motor?
March 21, 2018 at 1:20 pm #29797Corey’s info on the tank sender’s connection is correct. I did it today and got fuel level readings on the Smartcraft.
The only problem now is if I try to use the original VDO fuel guage on the same sender, the smartcraft reading goes haywire which I expected. Do I need smartcraft fuel guages to make this work?I would also like to know if the 2 terminal connectors are available to plug into the Medusa harness.
March 21, 2018 at 10:43 am #29789
Corey SchmidtForum ModeratorVessel Name: Rebel Belle
Engines: Cummins
Location: Oxnard, CA
Country: USA
Keep us posted on this as my fuel info is not set up on my vessel view 4. I get gph reading but no tank info. Always shows as low. I have to use the guage on the tank at the sending unit. Mike
Refer to the link above about the Medusa harness… this is where to connect your fuel level float sending units… that is how you can supply the instruments with an actual fuel level, not a “calibrated” display fuel level.
March 21, 2018 at 7:04 am #29750Keep us posted on this as my fuel info is not set up on my vessel view 4. I get gph reading but no tank info. Always shows as low. I have to use the guage on the tank at the sending unit. Mike
March 21, 2018 at 6:06 am #29749Thanks for the replies. Sorry I was not clear but the fuel tank senders are not connected to the Smartcaft.
The info provided above should help.
As usual this is the place to go to tap a vast well of knowledge !March 20, 2018 at 3:16 pm #29719
Corey SchmidtForum ModeratorVessel Name: Rebel Belle
Engines: Cummins
Location: Oxnard, CA
Country: USA
Not 100% clear on exactly what you’re asking but if you’re trying to connect fuel level sending units to your digital instruments you can connect the analog senders (240-33 ohm) to the Medusa harness.
Read this article for reference:
March 20, 2018 at 11:01 am #29705
PhilipParticipantVessel Name: 2007 35ā Cabo āFUGAā
Engines: Cummins QSC8.3-540ās
Location: Long Beach, CA
When you say you fuel management isnāt hooked up Iām assuming you are not getting a MPG reading but your GPH is displayed.
There should be a NMEA connection in the wiring harness someplace, usually under the dash. Itāsshould be labeled so you will just have to dig around. Should be a blue and a white wire, hook those to a NMEA source and you should get what your looking for,
Phil
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