Fuel Cooloer Removal Kit Installation

[Jeff Guilbert]

I’ll be installing the Fuel Cooler removal kit in the upcoming weeks.
Are there any special tricks or considerations to be aware of when installing the kit?
The water hose looks like a straightforward swap.
For the fuel line simplification, it looks like the kit comes with fittings and hose barbs to route the hose to the appropriate locations.
So am I correct in assuming cutting of the existing fuel lines required?
Do the existing supply and return hoses typically get re-used when removing the distribution block?

I also see that the oil pressure sender get relocated when removing the distribution block.
I was going to add a redundant oil pressure alarm sensor as well, so is there another location available for that one if I remove the distribution block?

After completing the installation, the fuel would need to be re-primed via the on-engine pump as well, correct?

Thanks,
Jeff

Topic

[Rob Schepis]

Run a new line from your lift pump to your primary (Racor or SMX DD or ??) and then add an extension to the return line if you’d rather not replace the run back to the tank.

[Tony Athens]

Cleaning up your 330-370 Diamond

Personally, I prefer to remove the combo block entirely.

Tony

[Jeff Guilbert]

Hi Rob,
Here are some pictures of my starboard engine. From what I could see, the fuel supply and return lines wouldn’t reach the connection locations after the fuel cooler and combo block removal. I’m thinking I’d have to splice in some short lengths of line to connect. Is that correct?
Jeff

[Awie Fourie]

Thank you for the root cause of fuel filter faiure. To prevent this kind of failure maybe better to remove the fuel return line to the tank and be straight back to tank without the shut off valve. For safety i will keep the return valve open and tighten handle with cable tie then no one could shut the valve off.

Good info we all could learn from our mistakes

[Jeff Guilbert]

Hi Rob,

That’s exactly what I was looking for!
I wasn’t using the appropriate terminology.
I was looking for a sender location that would allow a switch to also be installed.
Your photos show the setup very nicely.
I’m planning on installing the oil pressure switch on the main galley port.

Thanks,
Jeff

[Tony Athens]

Someone closed off the return line to the tank.. At running speeds, all it takes is a second or two the allow return line pressure to climb to over 100 PSI– Something has to give and usually it’s the fuel cooler collapsing internally.. NEVER ever shut the return line..

IF YOU ARE SWITCHING TANKS, THEN OPEN THE OTHER SIDE FIRST before closing the one you are switching from.

Tony

[Rob Schepis]

Awie,
Blocked flow on the return line would cause that – such as improperly switching tank valve positions when at cruising rpm. Did this happen to you? Is there more to the story?

[Awie Fourie]

Fuel coolers

What cause this fuel cooler failure?
Cummins 450hp diamond series

[Awie Fourie]

Fuel coolers

Why fuel coolers fail inside?

[Rob Schepis]

Here’s another option for the oil sender re-connection which leaves the main galley port available for the pressure switch. In the shot of my engine with the 2 arrows you can see the low psi alarm switch under the top arrow . That’s what you mean when you say “redundant” – a “switch” (not sender) for a redundant alarm, correct?

[Jeff Guilbert]

Hi Rob,
I don’t have pics, but I can take some next time I’m at the boat. It looks like the typical 6BTA 370 pictured at the bottom of the product page that you linked.
Yes, I’d like to remove the combo block if possible. In those pictures, it looks like the stock oil pressure sender was moved to the oil port that the redundant oil pressure sender would go, so that’s part of my question.
Jeff

[Rob Schepis]

Just to be clear – So you are removing the fuel cooler and the combo block too, correct?

Can you post some pics of your current setups?

Have you seen the install pics at the bottom of this page?

https://www.sbmar.com/product/fuel-cooler-removal-kit/

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