- This topic has 1 reply, 2 voices, and was last updated 5 years ago by
.
-
Topic
-
Hi Everyone,
I just thought I would post about my first time experience with removing my aftercooler for routine maintenance per Tony’s protocol.
For background, I am not a mechanic, but am a “bit handy”. I did find the thought of doing this myself a bit daunting, especially as how important the proper functioning of the aftercooler is to overall engine health.
However, I took the “plunge”. Removal, following suggestions from members of this forum was relatively easy (access issues aside). I just loosened all of the hose clamps, removed the lower air side intake and the seawater exit hose near the gear oil cooler. From there it was only 4 bolts to remove and the unit just “pulled out”. It is a bit heavy but not too bad. I left the brackets on the aftercooler and the air preheat still attached.
Serviced as per Tony’s instructions.
Pressure testing turned out to be more “interesting” than I had hoped. Don’t ask me why, but my unit would not hold air pressure when testing the seawater side. I tried to test my test equipment connections using shaving foam to spot air leaks. I found a couple and corrected them (I thought). Following advice from Rob, I then tested my whole aftercooler with pressure in a deep water filled tub. This allowed me to see the leaks. None were coming from the aftercooler air side. To be safe, I took off the air preheat and taped over the electrical “plug in connection” (prior to dunking), then sprayed this connection with WD40 after immersion. Free advice, when assembling your testing setup, double check that you have used Rector Seal (or equivalent) at EVERY connection š Again, don’t ask!
The testing setup that I used was 2 pieces of 1 3/4 inch hose, 2 end caps, 6 hose clamps, pressure gauge, ball valve, and necessary thread adapters. This was relatively inexpensive and it is available for future use. If your aftercooler won’t hold pressure, or shows signs of leaking (during the underwater test) from the air side of the cooler, you will have to disassemble and have the core tested and repaired (assuming you used the correct “O” rings and assembled it correctly).
Just have to paint up the aftercooler and reinstall.
Thanks to Tony, Rob, and the members of this site for all of their help.
Tom2 users thanked author for this post.
-
Hi firehoser
Nice write up and having just done mine.. pretty similar apart from my port intercooler core was stuck. I’d say to anyone, do not try and whack it out you will damage the core as I did and I had to get it repaired. Fortunately I had a mate with a big press, a lathe to knock up a tool and a penchant for Jack Daniels.. so got the core out with out inflicting further damage. once the tool is made I can keep reusing it, although I shouldn’t need to with regular maintenance that my boats previous owners have never heard of…
I used a strong mix of dishwasher liquid and water in a spray bottle to check for air leaks and tested both air and seawater side at up to 30psi for 24 hrs. I got a 2ish psi drop on the salt side due to a tiny test system fitting leak..
It was a job I wasn’t looking forward to but having done it and having good condition aftercoolers now I have services them… I think it’s an easy job!
Steve
1 user thanked author for this post.
You must be logged in to reply to this topic.