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  • #29728

    Sean Connolly
    Participant
    Vessel Name: Lost Summer 4
    Engines: 1999 Cummins 6bta 370hp
    Location: East Patchogue NY
    Country: United States

    Tony, hello , I bought the aftercooler service bundle from you, removed my aftercooler for my 1999 6bta’s 370hp 200hrs rack kept pursuit 3400 express. Removed end caps ,no coil obstruction found, I like to do the full service like shown in your video, but the sleeves won’t move, I soaked with trizol lube, tried heat no luck. My question is should use a press next, or at all? Since this would have to be done in a vertical orientationĀ 

Viewing 9 replies - 1 through 9 (of 9 total)
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  • #30556

    Philip
    Participant
    Vessel Name: 2007 35ā€™ Cabo ā€˜FUGAā€™
    Engines: Cummins QSC8.3-540ā€™s
    Location: Long Beach, CA

    Is there a 3/8ā€plug on the top pressure side of your raw water pump? If so, thatā€™s a good place to inject fresh water into the system for flushing.

    Phil

    #30543

    Rob Schepis
    Forum Moderator
    Vessel Name: Tenacious
    Engines: 6BTA 5.9 330's - "Seaboard Style"
    Location: Long Island, NY
    Country: USA

    Well the impeller is going to act like a road block so will you get enough flow in that direction (down) to fully flush the aftercooler? Or will 99% of the fresh water just head over to the gear cooler and beyond?…You could give it a shot and then pull the lower zinc and taste what comes out..

    #30536

    Sean Connolly
    Participant
    Vessel Name: Lost Summer 4
    Engines: 1999 Cummins 6bta 370hp
    Location: East Patchogue NY
    Country: United States

    Ok aftercooler are back together, pressure tested and ready to install, thanks everyone for all the help. Now I like to set up a fresh water flush, I see the recommendation on the site, but the locate of my genset makes it tough on the starboard motor. One thing I noticed during aftercooler service was how the top zinc on both motors was barely worn, so I was thinking could I use the the top zinc port as a place to plumb a rinse system, and change the bottom zinc(completely worn) at least middle season and maybe 3x per season as needed. Please let me hear everyone thoughts and ideas thanks

    #29941

    Rob Schepis
    Forum Moderator
    Vessel Name: Tenacious
    Engines: 6BTA 5.9 330's - "Seaboard Style"
    Location: Long Island, NY
    Country: USA

    Good to hear it wasn’t too painful. Keep in touch throughout the servicing..

    #29934

    Tony Athens
    Moderator
    Vessel Name: Local Banks
    Engines: QSB 6.7 550 HP
    Location: Oxnard, CA
    Country: USA

    Sean,

    Good job………………Remember the more you share the more it helps others.. That’s what this is all about…….It’s not about ads and membership fees………………………….

    As to the the info you get here, you will not find dealing with a typical Cummins employed “been to school” certified tech.. All they seem to know is what is in the repair or O&M manual, and they are not allowed to think outside of that…………………Believe me, I have been to every school they offer….And you can believe this too– I did not become friends with the instructor when in class.. Wonder why?……… Sad!……….

    It took over 20 years of preaching before the factory recognized their aftercooler assembly when new had to be changed.. They are now finally starting “getting on board”.. Maybe they got tired of letters from customers attorneys asking questions that had no good answer?

    Next on the list? The Dry QSM11 turbo & manifold design………. I started that with then in early 2000, and they still have not heard anything… Trust me, the time will come. when they clean out the ear wax…

    Tony

    #29930

    Sean Connolly
    Participant
    Vessel Name: Lost Summer 4
    Engines: 1999 Cummins 6bta 370hp
    Location: East Patchogue NY
    Country: United States

    You guys were right on, a few days of soaking and flipping allowed me to get the cores out . The housings are in good shape not much pitting, thanks to everyone.

    #29748

    Rob Schepis
    Forum Moderator
    Vessel Name: Tenacious
    Engines: 6BTA 5.9 330's - "Seaboard Style"
    Location: Long Island, NY
    Country: USA

    Wow, you are close to me. What marina, Sunset Harbor?

    Phil’s post is what needs to be done, I’ll elaborate some as well. Before soaking it where the oring sits clean that brass to aluminum joint with a wire brush, that’s were you need to apply the pentrating oil and leave it standing up over night. Kroil or Aerkroil is great stuff. You can also add some in the air port to work from the inside out. When you soak it stand it on end on something to absorb the oil – oil sorb, catch pan, newspapers whatever..
    Next morning flip it and do it again from the other side, the core/housing joint and the air port too. And then after the second soaking stand it up with the bottom supported on the housing, not the core, so the core is free to move. Put a hardwood across the top of the core end to hit with a hammer. I always prefer light hits with a lump hammer or sledge hammer letting the weight of the hammerhead do the work, force = mass X acceleration… If it moves a bit and is stubborn flip it, spray or grease that side and then tap in opposite direction..

    #29742

    Sean Connolly
    Participant
    Vessel Name: Lost Summer 4
    Engines: 1999 Cummins 6bta 370hp
    Location: East Patchogue NY
    Country: United States

    Ok will do, and I don’t see any signs of leakage but I pretty sure this is the first time these have been apart since New. I will include pictures in next post.

    #29730

    Philip
    Participant
    Vessel Name: 2007 35ā€™ Cabo ā€˜FUGAā€™
    Engines: Cummins QSC8.3-540ā€™s
    Location: Long Beach, CA

    Before you try a press get it dripping wet with penetrating oil for a few days, both inside the bundle air side where it meets the case and outside on the end caps. Reapply liberally and often (just like sun screen) for a few days, then try disassembly using a large pipe that goes over the core but engages the housing. A block of wood and some gentle taps with a rubber mallet.

    If that doesnā€™t work after soaking for days, try some gentle heat around the ends of the case.

    Usually the stubborn ones indicate an aftercooler that was leaking so good your going at it!

    Post a few pictures of the cooler, end caps, etc for us to see as you go. Once itā€™s apart post some more pictures of the inside of the ends of the housing etc.

    Phil

Viewing 9 replies - 1 through 9 (of 9 total)

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