[Tim Connolly]

Thanks Mike.  E-mail it to me.  tc@connolly-groupllc.com 

[Tim Connolly]

Hi Mike,

Following closely as I am about to embark on the same job.  Would love to see pics of your progress.  Could you also send links to the drill guide tool and rescue drill you referenced in your latest post when you get a moment?  Thanks and good luck with the rest of the job.

 

Tim AKA topcorner18

[Tim Connolly]

Hi Mike,

 

Wondering if you have undertaken this repair.  I’m in the process of procuring parts for exhaust manifold replacements for my QSM11 635’s.  Like you, concerned about shearing off bolts.  Will probably start in a couple of weeks so any guidance/photos would be greatly appreciated.

 

Tim

[Tim Connolly]

Hi Ryan,

I have the same engines and am having difficulty getting time on my mechanic’s schedule so TOYING with taking this job on with a good mechanical friend.  Was wondering how the rest of your experience went as well as reassembly tips and pics.

 

Thanks a ton for sharing what you have already posted.

Tim

PS – did you have any trouble getting parts?  one local Cummins shop said it was 18 months to get a new exhaust manifold.  Maybe Tony could comment.

[Tim Connolly]

Thanks, Tony. Really appreciate your insights and quick response.

Hoping you can answer as to the drain port on the pump – is it the plug on the side of the pump or either of those fittings with the pvc cap? That fitting with the pvc cap looks like some sort of quick connect? IF those are not drains, what are they used for?

Also, about that little valve fitting that is on the STB heat exchanger but appears to be either missing or broken off on the port. Is that a vent valve? Looks like they need replacing…

[Tim Connolly]

Hi Tony,

Pics look like they are showing up now. Any commentary you can offer regarding my origin post questions would be greatly appreciated. I have been thru many of “Tony’s Tips” and posts by Rob and did a search on “Larry Backman” as you recommended in another post but still have some of my original questions.

Thanks!
Tim

[Tim Connolly]

Thanks Tony – say, I see my photos did not show up. When I created the origianl message there was no “Attachments” section shown as is the case in this reply. How does one load photos on an original “Ask a Question”?

I’ll try to upload them on this reply.

[Tim Connolly]

Thanks for the reply proberts but those are the coolant pumps (anti-freeze or whatever term is used today). I replaced the raw water pumps earlier this year so I know them well. They are on the opposite side of the engines.

[Tim Connolly]

The “Attachments” portion of the new message posting was not shown when I entered my above note. It is shown under this reply window. Is that normal or did I miss something. Anyway, here are the photos I reference inthe original note.

[Tim Connolly]

Have been looking for but have not found a video or step by step procedure for coolant replacement. Is there a drain hose that fits on the bottom of the coolant pump? If so, is there a part number for ordering? Also, once drained, should I fill with distilled water and run engines for 10-15 minutes as a flush or is there a coolant flush product I should be using. Thanks for any help

[Tim Connolly]

Thanks Tony – I’ll try to get a better pic

[Tim Connolly]

BTW – this is the case ground lug is there for failures on the DC side of the charger. Wire attached to it will be one AWG less than the DC side wires going to various batteries.

[Tim Connolly]

Thanks for the details Tony. My negative wire from the starter is wired directly back to the battery, not to the engine block. I don’t see any other large wires going to the block. Does this mean the engines are isolated in some fashion?

[Tim Connolly]

Thanks, Tony!

[Tim Connolly]

HI Tony – would appreciate any guidance on my last post.

BTW – came across your site while investigating QSM11 Raw water capacity – been checking out your excellent posts. Love the “Re-power” entries as well as the DIY tips. WIll definitely be looking to your site for parts purchases.
Tim

[Tim Connolly]

Hi Tony,

Follow-up. I took off the faceplate and really got some leverage on the impeller using the puller and a pry bar. Seemed to seat a little better. Thought I would try that before pulling it again. Ran the engine for about 15 minutes at idle monitoring faceplate temp with temp gun. hottest Temp held around 95F (hot spot just off center) while rest of plate was 90F or below. I did not have my temp gun when I first had the problem so have no reference point except that I could hold my fingers on the face plate without detecting heat. DO those numbers sound reasonable? We have a short trip (3hrs) this weekend so I’ll keep my eye on it.

Back to flushing – I had a question on this as well – Local Cummins folks recommended I use 1 gallon of Hammerhead concentrate per engine – so I mixed it per instructions to get 4 gallons. I then removed my zincs and put in plugs, removed the impeller and pulled the feed hose from the strainer, pulled the exit hose from the exhaust elbow and hooked up my pump/bucket as shown the attached photo. The process of pulling the impeller and hoses pretty much drained the engine’s raw water system. I started my circulation pump and it pretty quickly drained the bucket. SOme solution was coming out the return line but not enough to keep up with the pump. I had to add water (which, of course, diluted the hammerhead solution further) to get any reasonable circulation but the pump always seemed to be ahead of what was coming back into the bucket. I assume this is because the raw water system holds more than 4 gallons. SHould I have been using more Hammerhead solution that just the one gallon mixed 3:1?

Just wondering how is one supposed to get a good circulation while still filling the raw water system?

Thanks again Tony – really appreciate the help.

[Tim Connolly]

Thanks Tony – hopefully I will have time tomorrow afternoon to dig into these items.

Really appreciate the quick responses.

[Tim Connolly]

HI Tony,

Thanks for quick response.

To your questions, boat always in salt water. Previous owner had the boat for 10 years. He kept good logs and receipts to back-up service. They show regular service of all systems included raw water – flushed as well as a removal of the exchangers about 4 years ago for complete service then one flush since and now the one I just did.

His Impeller receipt shows the following:
Sherwood Impeller Kit 18000K
PRODUCT CODE: LS-762-18000K
QTY 2 from a store Boater Plus
and the documentation in the box he left referenced Sherwood

Assuming those were the ones put into the pump – can’t be sure as I was not there and there were a couple spares on board when we purchased.

Is there any marking on the impeller that would show it is a Sherwood? Also, what should the impeller length be – maybe I can measure against the STB engine.

Thanks again!

Tim

[Author]

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