yanmar 4lha-ste engine temp.

[David Moore]

Starboard is burning more fuel, higher temp, slightly higher oil pressure and minor darker exhaust vs the portside. (only happens when 2500+ rpms / cruising out)

Any ideas? heat exchanger? too much fuel/burning rich?

Thanks!

Engines:
twin turbo diesel yanmar 4lha-ste

Topic

[Bill Fuller]

Yanmar 4LHA-STE

 

If it were me, I would go with the following

https://www.sbmar.com/product/bronze-tee-adapter-for-freshwater-flush-system/

The valve is only for safety.  It will always be open as well the sea cock. And then this

https://www.sbmar.com/product/stainless-freshwater-flush-thru-hull/

and a ¾ inch hose barb to fit the thru-hull fitting and one to fit the top of the valve. And ¾ inch reinforced tubing

All bronze, no plastic.

Or if you have Groco strainers with a cap on the top you could go with this plus the thru-hull fitting

https://www.sbmar.com/product/groco-arg-series-bronze-cap-with-freshwater-flush/

When I did mine almost 24 years ago none of this commercial stuff was available.

Regardless of how you set it up, just do it! It makes a difference.

Bill

[Bill Fuller]

Yanmar 4LHA-STE

David,

If it were me, I would go with the following:

https://www.sbmar.com/product/bronze-tee-adapter-for-freshwater-flush-system/

The valve is only for safety.  It will always be open as well the sea cock. And then this:

https://www.sbmar.com/product/stainless-freshwater-flush-thru-hull/

and a ¾” hose barb to fit the thru-hull fitting and one to fit the top of the valve. And ¾ inch reinforced tubing

All bronze, no plastic.

Or if you have Groco strainers with a cap on the top you could go with this plus the thru-hull fitting:

https://www.sbmar.com/product/groco-arg-series-bronze-cap-with-freshwater-flush/

When I did mine almost 24 years ago none of this over-the-counter stuff was available.

Regardless of how you set it up, just do it! It makes a difference!

Bill

[Bill Fuller]

If it were me, I would go with the following:

https://www.sbmar.com/product/bronze-tee-adapter-for-freshwater-flush-system/

The valve is only for safety.  It will always be open as well the sea cock. And then this:

https://www.sbmar.com/product/stainless-freshwater-flush-thru-hull/

and a ¾” hose barb to fit the thru-hull fitting and one to fit the top of the valve. And ¾ inch reinforced tubing

All bronze, no plastic.

Or if you have Groco strainers with a cap on the top you could go with this plus the thru-hull fitting:

https://www.sbmar.com/product/groco-arg-series-bronze-cap-with-freshwater-flush/

When I did mine almost 24 years ago none of this over-the-counter stuff was available.

Regardless of how you set it up, just do it! It makes a difference!

[Bill Fuller]

Yanmar 4LHA-STE

having trouble posting.

this is a test

Bill

1 user thanked author for this post.

David Moore

[David Moore]

Yanmar 4LHA-STE

Hi Bill,

Thoughts on this? https://www.perko.com/catalog/underwater_hardware/62/flush_pro%E2%84%A2/ 

[Bill Fuller]

Yanmar 4LHA-STE

Here is what Tony sells to accomplish the fresh water flush.

Marine Bronze Tee Adapter 1.25 to 2.50 in. (Freshwater Flush / Raw Water Alarm, etc.)

or just go here to see options

https://www.sbmar.com/product-category/general-boat-parts/freshwater-flush/

[David Moore]

Yanmar 4LHA-STE

the plastic perko ones are about half the price. The groco would probably be better long term. I would have to go with the inline options for both engines. ill check around online a bit and pull the trigger on something later this month.

[Bill Fuller]

Yanmar 4LHA-STE

Check these out

https://www.sbmar.com/product-category/general-boat-parts/freshwater-flush/

 

[Bill Fuller]

Yanmar 4LHA-STE

David,

I’m sure it would work just fine.

But, to me, it is just a complicated “T”.  when I first looked at it I thought it was some fancy flush system with an anti reverse flow set up in the unit.  Then I read they want you to shut the see cock while flushing. The cap is nice with a check Valve “?”.  Lots of parts to the system. Also I did not see a price.  Also, did you notice that it has to be mounted in a straight section of raw water intake hose and must be mounted so as not to touch anything.  Is it fragile? It is actually pretty big. Also, I am not a fa of closing the sea cock.  It is just an accident waiting to happen.  Also, it does not seem to be necessary. 

The most important thing is that flushing must be really easy or you will end up not doing it.  You hit the slip at 2AM and if it isn’t easy you won’t do it.  And to be effective it needs to be done immediately.  As in before the engines are shut down. 

I will look around on the net and see what I can find

Bill

 

[David Moore]

Yanmar 4LHA-STE

Hi Bill,

Thoughts on this? http://www.perko.com/catalog/underwater_hardware/62/flush_pro%E2%84%A2/

[David Moore]

Yanmar 4LHA-STE

Hi Bill,

Thoughts on this? https://www.perko.com/catalog/underwater_hardware/62/flush_pro%E2%84%A2/ 

[Bill Fuller]

Yanmar 4LHA-STE

A couple of comments regarding your criticism/concerns.

American Boat & Yacht Council (ABYC) standards only recommend <b>two clamps</b> for exhausts and fuel fill systems. 2 clamps should not be used if there is not enough room on the hose barb for both clamps to seat properly. otherwise the second clamp will cause cutting of the hose.

There is no significant pressure on the vinyl. Although, that was unusually heavy duty tubing not commonly available to the public. After several years it was replaced with re-enforced tubing.  there was never a failure.

Obviously, the seacock will shut off any water intrusion if a problem ever did occur. No shut off valves are required or necessary in the fresh water side of the system.

Also, this is a U. S. Coast Guard inspected vessel and they have never had a problem the setup.

[Gene Fuller]

There is one glaring flaw that would make any surveyor cringe.

An un-reinforced vinyl tube, single clamped, below the waterline with no shut-off valve does not meet any ordinary standard for safe operation.

[Bill Fuller]

Yanmar 4LHA-STE

The simple answer is “No”.  The seacock remains open so any excess fresh water will exit through the seacock.

One unexpected result of the fresh water flushing, at least on my boat, is that the strainers remain clean for a very long time as a result of fresh water back flowing through them.

1 user thanked author for this post.

David Moore

[David Moore]

Yanmar 4LHA-STE

Any issues with the hose being pressurized? would a 5 gallon bucket draw be better?

[David Moore]

Yanmar 4LHA-STE

Clean work! 

I will look into doing the “Another method is to cut the raw water line and place a “T” in the line.  The “T: will be a hose barb or some other means to attach a hose. I happen to prefer this method.” method after this season wraps up.

Seems like all boats should use this method. 

Thank you

[Bill Fuller]

Yanmar 4LHA-STE

David,

Really quite simple. In the pictures you can see the freshwater line going into the fitting on the strainer and is a direct shot to the raw water intake line.

The freshwater hose is run to any place convenient to put a garden hose fitting. As you can see, mine goes to a through hull fitting on the gunnel.  Very easy to get to.

There are no valves in the system! Th cap on the hose fitting prevents air from being sucked in at speed.  The sea cock for the raw water is left open during flushing.  This eliminates the possibility of accidentally leaving a valve closed.

Flushing should be done immediately upon returning from a trip before the engines cool down. My procedure is to pull into the slip, tie up and immediately attach the hose to begin flushing on one motor while the other is left idling. Then shut down that one and flush the other.

There are several ways to attach the freshwater hose to the raw water system. One is to tap the lid of the strainer and put a fitting into the lid. Or purchase a lit with a fitting already in place.  Another method is to cut the raw water line and place a “T” in the line.  The “T: will be a hose barb or some other means to attach a hose. I happen to prefer this method.

If you have any further questions, please feel free to ask.

Bill

1 user thanked author for this post.

David Moore

[David Moore]

Yanmar 4LHA-STE

Hi Bill,

Shearwater is looking good too!

what is the fresh water process you have going? any pictures? that is incredible you have not had to change any elbows or turbos.

I will grab those belts as I am due on those.

[Bill Fuller]

Yanmar 4LHA-STE

David, I’m also a bit late.

I now have just shy of 8,000 hours on my motors. Everything I said 3 years ago still applies.

Unfortunately, as I get older the boat runs less each year, especially since my son is involved in another boat.

I have fished more on his boat than mine of late. Check it out Shearwaterfishingsd on insta gram.

 At this point I have yet to replace anything on the motors.

original heat exchangers, turbos, aftercoolers, risers, oil cooler, gear coolers, water pumps etc. I attribute this to religiously fresh water flushing after every trip of whenever the motor run.

Also, I’m still a big fan of the D&D belts.

It seems I do more local yellowtail and swordfish fishing than anything else. I’ve only made one tuna trip so far tis year. Hopefully a few more soon.

let me know if you have any further questions.

Bill

 

[David Moore]

sorry for the late reply!

few years late on the reply lol.. to follow up the heat issues were fixed with a barnacle buster in the heat exchangers. The darker smoke and slacking rpms was due to bad exhaust elbow and turbo which i replace both myself. 

put about another 1000 hours on these bringing me to 4k hours on each and they are great engines. pulling in some big tuna along the way.

Hows your yanmars running bill? still in action? Thanks again for your help a few years ago.. ive learned a lot on these since then.

 

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