[Maxime Barthe]

Bill,

Thanks for your response. I’m confidant that the guys here at SeaBoard will help get me going reliably and safely. I have zero doubts that anyone on here would lead me in the wrong direction and i’m thankful for that. Every day i work on my engine i feel i get to know it a lot better. i’ll be addressing tachometer//temperature gauge issues this weekend. along with hopefully replacing a few leaky gaskets.

[Maxime Barthe]

Good evening guys

The refurbished After-cooler has been installed and has solved the low power issue.

I took the boat for a sea trial and she did 29.5kts with my 1.5yr old, my wife 100 gallons of fuel and I. (which i think is pretty good because that’s about 1kt faster than shes ever gone

going to install the Envirovent this upcoming weekend and get all the tachometer readings. (borrowing phototach)

the boat has a tappet cover gasket leak i’m going to address while shes out of the water along with a few other minor issues (rust prevention etc)

i still havent gotten around to drawing up an exhaust diagram to try to get an idea on how to better my exhaust situation, but i’m planning on doing that soon.

i just wanted to inquire about one more thing that may potentially be affecting my performance a bit.
I’ve attached pictures of my prop/rudders. if you notice the rudders have plates that have been welded to the bottom and they’re slightly pitched upwards. i believe this is pushing the stern of the boat down forcing me to trim the bow down to get the boat to plain out more quickly.. Any ideas? i’ve been considering chopping them off just to find out for a while now but i don’t want to waste my time.

Thanks again for all the help so far guys, i appreciate everything greatly.

– Max

[Maxime Barthe]

I finally found some time to work on the boat.

JWAC has been removed and was sent to a local shop that specializes in marine aftercoolers (3 star radiator).
It was filthy on the inside and might have been preventing the AFC line from adjusting the aneroid as rpms went up. when we pulled the line it had large amounts of vaccum both under load and not.

Envirovent filter is being sent out today along with heat exchanger maintenance kit. and walker Airsep will be making its way to the garbage.

I’m a bit concerned about an exhaust re-design as i barely have any room by the turbo when the main floor hatch is closed (ill attach some pictures later) i might have to consider a turbo relocation to top mount in order to achieve the “hump” the turbo is located about 18″ above the water line but im pretty sure the raw water exit is only about 6″ above the water line with no hump.

What are the odds the Exhaust manifold would be restricting air flow outwards? if so would it be worth inspecting while the heat exchanger is off?

EDIT: I also tested the tachometer and found that it was not pinning when power was jumped to the signal wire. It was barely jumping (hit about 400rpm max on the gauge) so i will probably be purchasing a new tach shortly.

Thanks

-Max

[Maxime Barthe]

Philip,

Thank you for your response. I most certainly will go about following those instructions. I knew nothing about the “Hump” and I’m curious if i could have my current exhaust modified to to meet the proper specifications. i’ll splash the boat Friday night and try to get some good pictures. Once I pull the boat back out i’ll remove the aftercooler and have it professionally serviced. should i consider having the engine bore scoped and compression tested or will the no load RPM pretty much answer those questions?

I’m looking forward to going through this learning curve, and the CCV is going in the garbage, I couldn’t figure out how to apply credit with ordering online but i’ll call tomorrow and order the envirovent filtration system. Also i’m having trouble locating a part number for the JWAC gasket and or core seals.

Thank you

-Max

[Maxime Barthe]

Tony,

The magnetic pick-up has been located. Tony i hope you understand the reason i am here and asking these questions is because i’m trying my best to solve a problem that my mechanic could not. My friend Chris who is a certified cummins mechanic is coming over to help sometime this week. my Current mechanic is working for free until the problem is solved, but i want to have the best understanding i can about my engine so i don’t keep running into these problems.

I hope i’ve made clear that i am by no means a diesel mechanic, but doing my best to learn about my engine and get things sorted out to have a reliable vessel. i have rebuilt two stroke engines for fun, restored two center consoles and done some minor mechanic work but never been in a situation like this. i’m mechanically inclined, and extremely patient, but what i lack is the knowledge about my engine, which i’m seeking from you or anyone willing to help so that i do not continue to get ripped off. I have another boat to fish on so that’s really not the big deal. id be more happy knowing that i’m fixing my boat the correct way.

Again i’m not a mechanic. i’m a food salesman who enjoys working on my own equipment and knowing how to fix it so that if i run into problems offshore i know what the problem is. i read that my engine had an alternator driven tach, which has proven to be incorrect. again “lack of knowledge” on my end. which is exactly why i’m here. ideally i would have just paid a mechanic and all my problems would be solved, but that has proven to be a horrible idea.

Any help pointing me in the right direction is greatly appreciated. Any articles that you can direct me towards that would save me some time would be greatly appreciated. Any advice you have to give will be greatly appreciated.

Thanks.

[Maxime Barthe]

Tony,

The Tach stopped working suddenly about 4 months ago before the problem occured, not sure how. The only reason i believe the tach is alternator driven is i have 3 wires coming from the tach, one of them being a gray signal wire that i traced to the Tach (I did not remove the wire loom but it was the only gray wire) also today i just noticed that the orange wire from the alternator was disconnected with no sign of where it was originally connected. perhaps i’m incorrect!

[Maxime Barthe]

Tony,

Thanks again for the response. I absolutely did read the low power trouble shooting article MANY times… my problem is i chose to trust a mechanic and this in turn screwed me (shame on me). The boat is on the trailer right now and i’ll order your intake system tonight. to my knowledge on the no dark smoke portion i followed all the instructions. All fuel lines were checked. Fuel solenoid was checked, all filters and lines leading to filters were checked. fuel pressure at the lift pump was checked and was also checked at the return check valve. throttle linkage was checked. after that

What would be a proper design for the exhaust? mine goes down and meets the fiberglass exhaust about a foot below the turbo. the flange were the water combines the exhaust wraps 360 around the exhaust port with a hole about every 1 inch. i’ll do my best to take some pictures when i take i disassemble it.

i don’t want to have anything end up the same way, again i stated that i would like for the boat to be extremely reliable as i take it for 200 mile 1 direction trips and back. I like to know that i’ll be able to trust my single engine boat. ill fix it correctly i just want to be absolutely sure because now i’m obliviously paranoid to spend more money on things that don’t fix my boat.

That is exactly why i’m here seeking the advice from you because you are probably the most knowledgeable person on this subject and i’m thankful for the time you’re taking to help me out!

i need to repair the Tachometer and i’m going to try to buy a phototach today. i believe i get tach signal from the alternator (which works) but i notice on my voltage gauge that its pulsing. would this have any adverse effects on my tach or is this just a bad connection, ive tried tracing the wire and cleaning the connections but still nothing.

One more question. i don’t have the adapter to run the boat out of the water so i disconnect the hose from the sea strainer and put my hose directly in. i only notice that my hose cannot supply enough water to keep the hose full, is this safe or am i risking destroying the impeller and sending pieces in to the tranny cooler. (i have an extra impeller just in case)

I will do as you say and follow your instructions to a T.

Thanks again

[Maxime Barthe]

Tony,

Thank you so much for your help and fast answer. I just pulled the boat out of the water yesterday for the first time in 3 months to give her a good cleaning under the waterline (Surface drive/6 blade prop is difficult to properly clean in the water)

I did recently remove the exhaust elbow and coupler connecting to the exhaust branch and there was no water line in the exhaust system that far forward.

unfortunately the turbo has less than 10 minutes of run time on it so i’m not sure if taking a picture of the exhaust side will be able to help out much, but i will certainly do so when i put her back in the water next Friday after work. What i will say is that after looking reading and looking at the pictures of the turbo it certainly looked like the bad/rusty turbo with saltwater intrusion. my turbo was so rusty it was flaking on the outside and the inside looked bad.

before i jump into the new CCV filtration system (which i plan to do as soon as i get the power problem fixed)
my funds are pretty limited nor was i expecting to have to spend $5000 on fixing nothing. I do on the other hand still have $300 credit with SBMAR so perhaps that’ll be the first thing to get replaced

i will certainly go buy a phototach, are there any suggested brands?

the turbo was EXTREMELY rusty, i believe this to be due to the wet exhaust leaking onto the PTO shaft and being slung around the whole back side of the motor. not to mention the turbo could have potentially eaten some of the salt water on the compressor side which was pretty nasty. though truthfully it was fully functional.

My big issue is i was dealing with a mechanic who has truly shown me that he has no particular skill in diagnostics and was just replacing parts blindly hoping for positive results.

I understand the design of the center console does not lend its self to servicing the boat very easily. but its a bit too late for that and now i’m forced to work around it. WhiteWater boats have an outstanding reputation in South florida.. not sure what went wrong!

All criticism is humbly appreciated and i will not take any offense from someone who is far more knowledgeable then me on this subject, as the end goal is truthfully to have a good reliable boat again.

As for the JWAC, i’ll remove it and send it out, but out of curiosity does this have any direct effects with the power issue? is this a step we can bypass for now until i recoup a bit financially?

I want to point out that i’m on a pretty tight budget as i was not expecting to have to spend $5,000 nor was i really prepared to. Also i absolutely do not have another $5,000 to throw at the boat as of right now so i want to do as much as possible to figure out problems before throwing more money at it.

Thank you so much!

[Maxime Barthe]

Engine serial – 46064974
Throttle linkage verified, and also manually tested
Tachometer stopped working when the harness went out – voltage surging from alternator – supect (replacing alternator as soon as i figure out the problem with the engine have some credit w/ SBMAR)
RPM – Was 2650 before engine started having trouble accelerating. once the turbo kicked in it would hit normal operating speeds, but the problem was getting enough fuel to get the turbo to spool (i think)
speed at WOT remained the same when it would go before.

[Author]

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