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I’ve sent Tony Athens these same pictures for review, but wanted to get a thread going with my progress for all to see. Twin QSBs. ACs have been serviced 1x by a previous owner (there were 4). I don’t believe they removed the AC and bench serviced.
I’ve only done my stbd AC at the moment. Slight green corrosion on both caps. No performance issues pointing me to any problems. Caps came off easily as expected. Top zinc was mostly intact with what looked like a lot of buildup around it. Bottom zinc was a nub that had broken off, and looked ineffective. I wouldn’t say I was thrilled at what I initially saw condition-wise, but I’d seen worse on this forum and others. They cleaned up great after an hour soak in HCL to water 10:1.
Bundle came out rather easily, about 5 “taps” with a 2×4 and a small sledge hammer. There was no noticeable buildup in the tubes, but I rodded our each one w a 3/16 rod. Then filled the tubes w 10:1 HCL/water and let em boil. I thought the weight of the bundle would be enough to set it on top of a rubber gasket; and keep the mixture in the tubes…..it was not. Careful to keep the HCL mix away from the air side I just ran the mixture through the tubes till they were reasonably clean. They were then put in my homemade test rig, and held 25psi overnight. Note the “brass termites” on the ring of the bundle……Tony indicates this due to cheaper alloys being used the last 10years, is ok and liberally apply grease and reassemble.
Housings were in ok shape. The black coating on the interior was corroding, as I kind of expected. Sanded that and will grease. The top and bottom mating surfaces looked ok. I block sanded them clean. The top turned out great. But the bottom has some weird ring around the surface that was pitted, and had a slight depth to it. Tony has indicated this looks average and to continue w the protocol w liberal grease.
I’m out of town, but the next step is to reassemble and pressure test the entire assembly. I’ll update pics when I do that.
I also did my stbd fuel cooler and gear cooler……they turned out great after sitting for an hour with the tubes full of HCL.
Upon install I plan on a freshwater flush setup to prolong this job.
Thanks Tony!
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Vessel Name: Tenacious
Engines: 6BTA 5.9 330's - "Seaboard Style"
Location: Long Island, NY
Country: USA
Dilution Ratio
Both methods are correct in their respective settings and not critical for us grease monkeys. I’ve always thought of it in the ratio form, not in the form of a factor. Sometimes a chart is handy….
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Just a reminder about the acid and water, Wear safety gear, rubber gloves and eye protection.
When mixing the 10:1, ADD acid to the water, NOT the other way.
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10+1 would have also started bubbling immediately too! Does it matter———NO..
Ya done GOOD!..
Tony
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Robert,
I would tent to not agree with your take on ratios, as from my “non-technical side”, but more from the side of common understanding of the terms used in a “one of one” explanations to what is being talked about. Is “common conversations” and better way to describe this?
……….100%, your answer is right in many discussions, but if you were to “snoop around” on GOOGLE, I think you will find 10:1 = 10+1 as much or more than it means 9+1 =10…………Most of us are not Chemists by profession..
Does it matter? Absolutely not in this case..
All is good!……..
Tony……………
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10:1 is technically 1 part HCL and 9 parts water, for a total of 10. Mine was a pool store gallon for $4. Careful mixing……stuff is strong straight out of the bottle.
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Vessel Name: Tenacious
Engines: 6BTA 5.9 330's - "Seaboard Style"
Location: Long Island, NY
Country: USA
Robert,
Thanks for taking the time to photo everything and put together this thread.
I’d like to see a picture of the core reinserted into the housing and re-take your second photo or something similar (with and without the o-ring) so we can all see exactly where the termite damage is vs. where the o-ring sits. Make sense?
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