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    • Cummins Marine Forum Topics
    • Beede gauge sender

      This topic has 3 replies, has 2 voices, and was last updated byTony Athens 3 years ago

      August 21, 2020 at 10:47 am Currently I have a Beede furina gauge and a 2 terminal gauge sender for my oil pressure. Can a 1 terminal sender be used in place of the 2 terminal sender by ground one of the sender wires to the engine block? Also does it matter which color wire is grounded. Thank you Tony

      Started by: Tony Repetti in: General Discussion


      3 Replies
      August 21, 2020 at 3:07 pm Stay away from that mini nylon hose & and oil pressure on on boat.. Look at the link–make something up that is safe until you sort out the issue, if you even have one.. SMX Mechanical Oil Pressure Gauge Kit

      Last Post by: Tony Athens posted: 3 years ago

    • Tach adjustment

      This topic has 2 replies, has 2 voices, and was last updated byTony Repetti 6 years ago

      May 19, 2017 at 7:38 am I just installed 2 450c reman engines and found the tach on the port side is 150 to 200 off from the starboard side, . The difference on the photo tach is about 5 to 8 rpms. I saw some dip switchs on the back of the tach but didn’t try to change any. The gauge panels came with the engines. The starboard engine is close to the photo tach. Thanks Tony

      Started by: Tony Repetti in: General Discussion


      2 Replies
      May 20, 2017 at 8:16 am Thanks Tony

      Last Post by: Tony Repetti posted: 6 years ago

    • high temp exhaust wrap

      This topic has 1 reply, has 2 voices, and was last updated byRob Schepis 7 years ago

      March 3, 2017 at 8:57 am I purchased from SBMAR a roll of the high temp wrap and was wondering if it was ok the spray the wrap after installation with a high temp silicon spray coating to keep the wrap in place and also seal it. Also do you recommend soaking the wrap with water before the installation. Thank you Tony

      Started by: Tony Repetti in: General Discussion


      1 Reply
      March 4, 2017 at 6:53 am I would say yes on both accounts. Start from the turbo end and work your way down the pipe, nice and tight. Haven’t used the stuff since back in the hot rodding days on small block Chevy headers, that was tedious, your riser(s) will be easier to work with. Keep us updated with good pics..

      Last Post by: Rob Schepis posted: 7 years ago

    • brazing a ell to heat exchanger outlet

      This topic has 1 reply, has 2 voices, and was last updated byCorey Schmidt 7 years ago

      February 27, 2017 at 6:11 am Is it ok to braze a bronze ell to the outlet of the heat exchanger on a 450c to change the direction of the hose on a repower, or would it be better to use a silicone ell with hose clamps? Thank you Tony

      Started by: Tony Repetti in: General Discussion


      1 Reply
      February 27, 2017 at 3:59 pm Here are some examples… Use silicon bronze tig welding on the the cast outlets. We also have saddles you can soft solder (95-5) Ā after proper fitting and cleaning… see the pictures

      Last Post by: Corey Schmidt posted: 7 years ago

    • clearance for exhaust to salon floor before wet ell

      This topic has 1 reply, has 2 voices, and was last updated byRob Schepis 7 years ago

      February 7, 2017 at 7:27 am I’m in the middle of a repower with reman 450c cummins engines as replacement for 671tibs in a 1989 41 Viking. I’m trying to get max height as possible using 2 short turn ells comming off of the turbo. This will place the stainless steel ell about 2 inches from the salon under side of the floor before any turbo wrap or insulation. What would be a safe clearance for the hot ell off the turbo? What is the recommended insulation to use …

      Started by: Tony Repetti in: General Discussion


      1 Reply
      February 7, 2017 at 2:17 pm Any pics of what you are working with? Fiberglass wrap on the dry riser, will be ~valve cover temperature or less. Ā Here’s my Seaboard risers, without and with the wraps.

      Last Post by: Rob Schepis posted: 7 years ago

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