[Philip]

If you took off the end cap of the heat exchanger and noticed coolant leaking this would be normal and expected!

The end cap seals the o ring that separates sea water from the coolant and without pressure against the o ring the coolant would just run out.

Unless I’m missing something your chasing a white elephant!

Phil

[Philip]

Heat exchangers rarely fail to the point of needing replacement however they do need service. It’s really a time and parts service item.

It takes some time to do it right but removing it from the engine and disassembling it, cleaning, pressure testing, assembling with new o-rings and grease should take care of it.

I wouldn’t add things to the coolant unless your looking for a very short term fix and then being faced with the same or worse problem at bad time (like middle of the summer when the mechanic is busy).

Problems don’t get better, just repaired.

Sorry to be the grim reaper.

[Philip]

The keypad can be replaced. Send the whole shifter back to glendenning… they area great people to work with.

Phil

[Philip]

Maybe…. maybe not… your just not giving anyone any real info to deal with so it’s hard to answer your questions.

I’d hate for you to go cutting up your dash to find out its more than you want to undertake… or maybe it’s no big deal.

More details, better answers.

[Philip]

How about some more info and a few pictures.

There are several versions of smartcraft so a picture of existing front and back and proposed front and back will help.

Also a picture of the ECM showing revision number will help.

Phil

[Philip]

It’s really a time/materials job. Depending on access and luck, sometimes the coupler comes right apart and the shaft pops right off the coupler. Sometimes that can take a bit longer with some choice words and bloody knuckles!

This is not a rocket science repair so any reputable boat yard can do it and there is no shortcuts or less expensive options.

Choose a place that you feel comfortable with and communicate well with along with recommendations and reputation.

Do you have any vibration when running ?

Phil

[Philip]

You mentioned you “grounded out”… does that mean you hit bottom? Do you have any vibrations?

Check this video out…

Phil

[Philip]

If the extra lip seal is present (an option on the Tideseal) then it’s worth a shot and can be done in the slip. Probably 2 hours labor. The success will depend on why the present seal went bad. If there is an issue with the shaft where the seal rests then the replacement will most likely have similar issues.

If you have to go tot the next step then I would certainly replace both seals and put new backup seals in the spare seal protective carrier. Again if the replacement seal is in good condition and did not seal simply replacing seals does no good, you have to address the shaft or seal housing. Removing the shaft means remove prop, undo shaft coupling, undo shaft from coupling and slide it out, repair/replace shaft. Sometimes a longer hose on the stern tube will allow the seal to ride on a different area of the shaft. Installation is the reverse and includes new shaft seals etc and a good engine alignment is a must.

And as long as it’s out of the water double check the cutlass bearing. If the shaft comes out now would be the time to replace that.

That leak will not get better and when the shaft turns it will start to spray water around the engine room causing further issues.

Start with using the spare seal and see what that does… let us know.

Phil

[Philip]

Got any pictures of your filtration and engines?

[Philip]

Interesting that you get low fuel pressure AND black smoke. As we know black smoke is unburied fuel. With low fuel pressure I’d expect the absence of fuel and no black smoke.

AIR issues: Not getting enough air can be caused by a dirty/collapsed air cleaner, a leaking turbo hose, a filthy aftercooler or air restriction inside the aftercooler, a worn out or partially stuck turbo, or a poorly ventilated engine room. Any combo of these can restrict air to the engine causing dark smoke and further, low power.

Got any pictures of the engine and especially turbo/exhaust area? I’m wondering if you really have a turbo issue. If your turbo is sticking for whatever reason you will have an air restriction and excess fuel = black smoke.

Post some pictures, let’s see if we can help you out…

Phil

[Philip]

Assuming you can disassemble the aftercoolers and they are serviceable (not corroded to bad) I would expect 25-30 hours to remove 2 aftercoolers and 2 heat exchangers, full disassembly, clean, pressure test, reassemble and install.

Extra time for impellers and belts etc.

Phil

1 user thanked author for this post.

Tony Athens

[Philip]

Might want to check the indicator light… if it doesn’t work when the key is on then why should it work when the alternator fails…

[Philip]

Can you comment on what you beleive to be the best most efficient way to use the brake cleaner in the air side?

Did you consider soaking in Brake Cleaner? You can get the stuff in gallons.

[Philip]

All that soot certainly got into your air cleaner and possibly the aftercooler air side. At two years it’s ready to be removed and cleaned again anyways unless your a fresh water flusher.

When you get the manifold off double check for anything warped before reassembly.

Phil

1 user thanked author for this post.

David R

[Philip]

By chance is there a fire suppression system installed? If so, that can add some complexity to investigate depending on how it’s wired into the system.

Phil

[Philip]

John

Your not going to get much help on this one as you didn’t give us much to go on.

Cummins wiring diagrams and how the building actually installed and wired the engines are usually two different worlds,

How about a few pictures of the dash showing all, start buttons, back side dash start buttons, engine showing started and start solenoid?

Maybe we will get a clue for you.

Phil

[Philip]

Out of curiosity

1. What is the hex size for the filter plug?

2. What is the plug thread (metric m8-1.25, 10-32, etc)? Would be good to put a fitting with hose into a small container to contain the mess some.

Phil

[Philip]

Let us know how you like (or dislike) the Mobilfluid. It’s good to get multiple opinions!

Phil

[Philip]

John

The Mobilfluid has performed perfectly over time. As stated in my initial review operating temp, engagement, and trolling valve performance are all improved.

I have had no complaints with Mobilfluid and plan to continue its use for the foreseeable future.

When I switched to Mobilfluid I cleaned the shift and trolling solenoid screens as well as the filter screen under the large nut on the port side of the transmission. I also changed the transmission filter.

Phil

1 user thanked author for this post.

John

[Philip]

Engine Temp is only the small part of the aftercooler equation – you can monitor that with a gauge.

The big part of the aftercooler servicing equation is sea water getting past the end cap o rings and spraying the inside of your engine. There is no gauge to monitor that so the only option is to remove the cooler from the engine and service the cooler on the bench with new ones rings after cleaning the mating surfaces and using lots of grease,

As to the question about factoring the service into the purchase – anything can be negotiated….

Phil

[Author]

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