[glenn111]

Tie Wrap the fuel shut off solenoid to the Pull-in point to eliminate it and the key switch, etc.  

[glenn111]

Don’t see any aftercoolers.

[glenn111]

Yes, Must be very careful as you get closer to pipe. But this is true if you use a knife or hack-saw. Also, once you cut through the wire reinforcement, the hose tends to “pop apart” and separate from the pipe. It makes it much easier to remove when it does that. Or as you get close to a complete cut-through, use a screw- driver blade to do the final separation. But must be really careful when Dremel, but a must for me when the screw driver under the hose doesn’t seem to work or you really have tight access. Much easier to gain access with Dremel in most cases. Good luck, and suggest to use the Rector Seal when replacing the hose, as recommended all the time on this site.

[glenn111]

I use Dremel with cutting accessory. Precise and cuts through the wire also.

[glenn111]

Just to make sure….tie – wrap the fuel solenoid in the activated/pull-in position and try cranking.

[glenn111]

I do not have a oil-change pump installed in my engine room of the 330’s. I use the “professional oil changer” from West Marine and connect it to the blue hose that Rob mentioned. I use it for the generator also. Dump it into a 5 gal bucket and take it to an oil recovery facility. In the long run, it’s probably better to install a permanent one.

[glenn111]

“Also, do not apply the pressurized freshwater to the engine when it is not running! You can apply the freshwater if the thru hull is open to relieve the pressure.”

Is there a problem with freshwater on with engine not running, assuming hoses and hardware components are in good shape.

[glenn111]

I thought I sent this earlier, but I don’t see it….so here it is again. Forgive me for the redundancy.

Paul, Looks like you have other more important issues now, but just to add some help in finding a replacement Solenoid that should work with your boat – when you have time. You can google “cummins fuel shut off solenoid 3919422″. It will come up with multiple results. Make sure – 2.5″ bolt spacing, 3 round pins, part #, 12 V and a”round” connector on the shaft end to match the pin on the shut off leaver. Some have a square end on the shaft that is probably used in Auto applications. If the modification kit from Seaboard works…that surely is the best solution.

Here is a pic of the one we have and the newer one from Cummins/Seaboard.

BTW, you may have to make some adjustments (I did) to the solenoid to make it move smoothly with the shut off leaver. Perhaps adjusting the travel of the metal rod that connects to the leaver or slightly shimming the solenoid where it mounts to the base plate. Shouldn’t be too difficult on the Stbd engine.

Good luck.

[glenn111]

Make sure shifter in Neutral.

[glenn111]

Paul, I’ve done this 2x’s. Both on the Port engine. Burned up the solenoid twice and connector on the solenoid and wire harness (1 time). The connectors were “welded” together so they couldn’t be separated. Staying on the start position of the key switch too long will “smoke” those solenoids, I suspect that is why Cummins when to the 3″ solenoid, as they are noticeably bigger and thicker than the 2.5 inch that you and I have. Probably can better handle the long “start switch situation” and longer current time. I had a helm switch with a weak release from start. So I also replace the key switch with a much stronger start release (hope that makes sense).

Tie wrapping the fuel shutoff rocker will work. Real easy on the Stbd engine, a little more difficult on the port. I even when to Ace or Big box hardware store to buy a tie wrap that easily connects and discounts without having to cut and replace each time. They are generally bright yellow and slotted/adjustable tie wraps. This might save you the need to crawl around the front of the engine (port side) each time you start and stop the motor.

When I burnt-up the connector on the wire harness, I considered ordering a new wire harness. Talked to the folks at Seaboard and decided to go on-line and ordered two exact replacement connectors that come with about 12″ inches of pig-tail. Cut the burnt connector on the wire harness as close to the connector end as possible and butt-connected the new item. There’s not much wire to work with from the wire harness, so cut as close to the connector as possible. Crimped together and protected with liquid tape…working fine.

I recently ordered the replacement Solenoid from Seaboard and had to send it back, as they only have the newer 3″ ones. I did’t realize they have the conversion kit, as Rob mentioned. No doubt, that is probably the best approach.

I ordered the 2.5″ ones on-line. One of them has been working well for over 2 years. I’m waiting on the second one now. You are correct, the 3 ” will not work without the conversion kit.

Is your problem with the Port of Stbd engine?

1 user thanked author for this post.

Rob Schepis

[glenn111]

Is it thru-hull exhaust. Can cause some vibrations being felt as it gets up on plane.

[glenn111]

At one point, the ZF80A’s would fail over time when run in the “full power-reverse” mode when matched to the 330 PORT engine of Maxum 41′. That is the port engine on a dual engine boat. The flywheel was too light in this configuration allowing plate chatter to heat-up the gear box. No problem with the stb engine, which has the gears running in the forward direction under cruise. Cummins recognized this problem. The 370’s had a heavier fly wheel and didn’t experience this concern, I was told by Cummins. The several I know personally that failed were manufactured in late 1990’s. They may have corrected this later by upgrading to the 370 fly wheel, as they did mine. From my experience, Rob’s comments make a lot of sense.

[glenn111]

On my 6BTA’s when you start the engine by turning the ignition switch to the start position, high current is applied to the solenoid and it pulls-in to the full-up position. This allows fuel to flow to the fuel pump and the engine to start. When the engine starts and the ignition switch is moved to the run position, a lower current is applied to the solenoid, however enough to keep it in the full-up position. This allows fuel to continue to flow when you are in the run position. Turning the ignition switch to the off position – no current is applied and deactivates or relaxes the solenoid and the fuel is shut off. With what you mentioned earlier and looking at your pics, I would replace the whole fuel solenoid. If you manually pull the solenoid shaft up, you should feel tension trying to move it to the relaxed state.

1 user thanked author for this post.

siwicki

[glenn111]

I’m not addressing the solenoid issue specifically but looking at your pics, should you replace it, make sure you measure the mounting hardware. It looks like mine with a 2 1/2″ center-to-center on the mounting screw holes. I recently changed mine. May I say, if you order a replacement from Seaboard as I did, you may receive the 3″ version. They didn’t have the smaller one, as it’s been replaced by the 3″ version. I’m sure you can find one from Cummins. I purchased mine on ebay- item ID: 231638211253.

From your pics, I would replace it. There are some great articles on this site relative to the operations of the fuel Solenoid. Basically, if all is working properly, start position (high current) of the ignition switch pulls the solenoid in. Run position (lower current) of the ignition switch holds it in the pull-position. Ignition switch off – solenoid relaxes. BTW, you can burn-up this solenoid if you keep the ignition in the start position too long…I suspect that may be why Cummins replaced them with the larger ones with the 3″ mounting holes.

[glenn111]

I’ve had some luck with a small bottle jack from any auto parts store place on the “ledge” of the oil pan-to-block connection. There’s not a lot to grab onto, but you pick up a few inches of height instead of the bottom of the oil pan. Spread out the engine weight with a 7 sq/in block of 1″ or so ply wood. My hull is solid fiberglass. Easy on the Stbd side…UGH! on the port engine.

[glenn111]

Chuck, you mention “I’m amazed that Cummins didn’t, to my knowledge, do a recall on these engines…”. I have 6BTA’s (330 hp) that had a HISTORY of the Port gear box failures when matched with the ZF80A’s taranies. This is over 10 years ago. It failed on my boat with low hours. I though that odd, so I met with the local Cummins service folks and ZF folks. The Cummins service folks acted like it wasn’t a common failure. Found that not to be true after talking with 6 other boat owners with the same configuration …failure 100% of the time. Finally I emailed the National Service manager of Cummins. They replace the gear box on one engine and upgraded the fly-wheel on both…No charge even though it was several years out of warranty. Cummins never did a recall on those configurations of boat (Maxum 41′) and engine/gear box configs, but they did assume responsibility if you got in touch with the right service manager. Just an FYI. Problem fixed. Fly-wheel was too light on the 330’s and let too much “chatter” into the gear box and it locked-up.

[glenn111]

Yes, that reservoir is for throttle and shifter. Steering has it’s own reservoir up at the helm by the steering wheel. Suggest to add fluid and air pressure to what is shown in your pic. Might have to “bleed’ the lines if have air trapped in the hydraulic hoses. I have the original manual for it if you need specific info. Probably on-line also. Good luck.

[glenn111]

Good “eye” Luke. Originally Morse Controls. I had problems with my shiftier (squirted out oil) several years ago and had to call them and had some technician in North Carolina rebuilt it. Not sure the company is still Morse, however. Fluid level should be between 1/2 and 2/3 full on the sight glass. Pressure should be between 70 – 90 psi.
I think , as Luke noted, your’s is near or at zero. I would suggest to re-pressurize the system with air source.

[glenn111]

Just saw this question. Have a remote generator panel by the main power panel (AC and DC circuits). Has all the start, by-pass, stop switches and Temp, Volts and hour meters.

[glenn111]

Mike, with your statement “At the dock, I let her warm up to the gauge read just under 190. Shooting the thermostat housing and the sender itself, it registered right around 177.” it seems to me that you don’t have a temp problem. The digital IR gun says your OK, even though your gauges are reading 190. I haven’t re-read everything, but perhaps I’m missing something, but you don’t need a new tstat. Seems like you gauge or what “feeding it” is at fault.

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