[Woo]

Idler upgrades and 160* stats, TICK. <br />All they need now is fresh water flush setup.

[Woo]

Solved. <br />Bad fuel solenoid intermittently dropping the coil. <br />The leak is unrelated, bad o-ring.

[Woo]

6BT reman would be the go.

There’s not many doorways a 6BT wont go through with just the heat exchanger, alternator, and exhaust elbow removed.

[Woo]

Are your low oil pressure alarms sounding when briskly coming back to idle rpm’s after high/cruise rpm situation?

[Woo]

Probably the perfect time to upgrade to an Envirovent setup. Great filter, and sorts your crankcase breathing at the same time.

 

EnviroVent CCV Kit for 6BTA 5.9 Series Engines 250HP and up (4″ Air Cleaner)

[Woo]

Little update on this boat, all the seawater side has been done to SBMar specs, SMX raw water pump upgrades, fuel cooler deletes, Walkers gone and Airseps in place, and one circ pump done. I did forget to order the idler bolt upgrade kits, so will get those on the next order.

One question, where can the owner safely cruise these, assuming they’re making 2700, which is 100 over. The boat’s a bit heavy for her size at 22,000lbs half fuel, can’t explain why really, as there’s not a lot of removable weight aboard. She comes alive at higher rpm’s, but I would like him to not run it too hard and have a bad experience.

[Woo]

I’m intrigued the state can force you to update an older boat to have a teir 3 engine.

Since the QSB5.9 is only teir 2, looks like you’ll need to go to a QSB6.7. Dimensions are all available on this site.

[Woo]

Now you state its the heat exchanger end cap/s that were leaving, seems obvious to inspect, clean and install new gaskets (ensuring the end caps are still in good shape and “coned” enough to provide pressure on the new gaskets). Then a fresh water washdown of the engine to remove salt and a run to warm it through afterwards. I personally use this product sprayed onto engines first to thoroughly clean them prior to washing, along with the bilge areas, rinse with fresh, run to dry them thoroughly, then repaint areas that need it, and spray a little lanolin around only on parts that really need a bit of extra protection from the salt environment. Understand you may not get the product stateside, but I’m sure there’s popular similar products.

 

<br />https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/195305411829?chn=ps&_ul=AU&_trkparms=ispr%3D1&amdata=enc%3A1gPHjDaO6SgalbhiAPn8grg77&norover=1&mkevt=1&mkrid=705-139619-5960-0&mkcid=2&mkscid=101&itemid=195305411829&targetid=1740279243809&device=c&mktype=pla&googleloc=9069286&poi=&campaignid=18277121424&mkgroupid=142426603833&rlsatarget=pla-1740279243809&abcId=9301724&merchantid=192870610&gclid=CjwKCAjwq-WgBhBMEiwAzKSH6KXkPv4fFNzJRH2zvszVGu-Vvddh6GDYWCVrRp50dbgCVP841iG5QRoCHtIQAvD_BwE  

[Woo]

Good lateral thinking there David.

“So place fitting where cooler should ben be, and then check exhaust should be clear? correct? just raw water” – Correct Lew. Try this, or, you may find it easier to use David’s method.

Bear in mind, if you still have the fuel cooler, it could be that too.

[Woo]

Tony means to get a fitting to join the two gear cooler lines together, taking the gear cool itself out of the circuit. <br />Only at the dock, as the gear won’t be getting cooled (obviously).

[Woo]

If memory serves me correctly, Cummins calls for 2″, and the raw water pump inlet is also 2″.

1 user thanked author for this post.

Tom Platt

[Woo]

Wait Watch and Monitor is my suggestion.

1 user thanked author for this post.

John

[Woo]

It is my video, and 7 years after relaunch, everything is working perfectly and the condition inside the cooling system is superb.

I have attached a picture of the Yamaha waverunner foolproof flushing ports installed in the cockpit – no need to go into a warm engine room, flush engines while we suds the boat.

We can hear the water running down from the mixing elbow, and confirm its flushing through by eyeballing the exhaust outlet.

Also attached is the pic of an aftercooler core sliding out SIX years after last opening it. Works a treat.

2 users thanked author for this post.

Patrick Mangum, Rob Schepis

[Woo]

What is your exhaust like? <br />If you flushed with engine off, will the water flow freely through the exhaust to the outlet? ie, any water lift mufflers?

[Woo]

Ahhhh, get yourself a six-point 10mm ring spanner.

Soak with penetrating fluid many hours prior to attempting removal.

I suspect you’ll also be engaging the use of vice grip priers as well, however, not sure You should be the operator given your initial question and subsequent photos. Getting this wrong can create a lot of work.

And, sure looks like your turbo is eating a diet of salt water, likely from the improper use of that Cummins exhaust elbow and lack of design forethought…..

NOW is the time to fix the issue properly.

 

[Woo]

I was fortunate that I could use the factory front/top mounted tanks and recovery bottles supplied with my remans. Pictures tell the story. Engines under the floor obviously. <br />As for capacity, the 330 and 370 use the same tanks. <br />Mine would be lucky if they were 2 gallons, though in general terms, the larger the better. I’m certain you could find a suitable alternative, even an automotive type plastic remote tank which is quite commonly used in motor vehicles these days.

[Woo]

Can be done, however the tanks must remain higher than the engines.

I did exactly this for similar reasons, height and space constraints.

I extended all hoses matching factory specs, ensuring the hose runs allowed no low points to hinder easy filling and bleeding, and mounted my factory tanks out of the engine room, under the side deck behind salon couches on each side, with a hatch for each for simple access. The tanks are probably 20 inches higher than the engines.

The recovery tanks are mounted nearby, you can see one in the background of pic attached. And the second pic on left of picture you can see the hoses entering the engine room from the remote tanks. Sorry the pics are a bit rubbish.

1 user thanked author for this post.

Tony Athens

[Woo]

Wow Tony, that’s fascinating. They’ve certainly left nothing to the imagination there!

[Woo]

How is the alignment? I presume someone’s done it, but has it been done really well? If everything is straight, the resilient mounts okay, and the props are “good”…….

[Woo]

Might be best if I contact Corey for a price for 1 or a pair of 220A then.

[Author]

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