[Steve]

Sirs,

I recently got this same alarm about two months ago.  I replaced both the racor and engine fuel filters and alarm stopped.  Have run the boat several times since (at least 15 times, at least 2-4 hours each session).  Today the alarm popped up again.  Again, my racor shows no water in the bowl and the engine is running fine.  Is there something I can check before changing filters again?

Per Tony’s info requests back on 9/27/22:

Had the boat since 2017.  

Sept 2022 was first occurrence.  

Second occurrence was August 2023. 

Third occurrence was today (10/2/2023).

Cummins qsb 5.9 Serial #46709654

The display replaced was the original smartcraft display (replaced 6-19-2019).

Attached are pictures if the helm station (2008 Back Cove 33).

Thank You !!

 

[Steve]

The Idler Pulley bearing is obsolete per Cummins so I just bought a new pulley from Seaboard.  It appears to be an easy swap but before I start something I didn’t bring tools for, is this as easy as it looks or will I need a puller to remove the old puller?  Thank You

[Steve]

Got it. Thank You Much !

Steve

[Steve]

This is going to be embarrassing but I owe it to this forum to close my post out. It turns out I had no ZF seam weep after all.

Red K&N oil applied to my Airsep would ever so slowly drip onto the transmission mounting bracket. It seeped down between the bracket and the transmission, then along the bottom seam to finally drip into the bilge diaper.

I missed it because the mounting bracket is black and the oil left no noticeable residue on it. It seemed the oil just emerged from under the bracket. Also, from where I sit in the engine room, seeing the very bottom of the Airsep requires a challenging yoga pose.

I finally discovered it when I saw it drip onto the bracket and confirmed it after taking the boat out a few times.

Sorry about error but I truly attention and appreciate the assistance.

[Steve]

Will Do…I’ll start with the bolt closest to the weep, WWM for a few outings, then proceed to another bolt as necessary. I’ll report back on the results. Thanks Much and Wish Me Luck!
Steve

[Steve]

Yes sir. You are correct. That view is looking up from under the bracket that holds the transmission to the port stringer.

[Steve]

Are these the angles you’re looking for?

I inspected all the wires, hoses and the gear valve assembly and found no atf.

What do you think?

[Steve]

My belt tension looked fine so after consideration, I went ahead and replaced the tensioner pulley. It was an easy fix. No more whine and no concern it may come back.

[Steve]

I’m still struggling with uploading the picture but the tensioner pulley I’m talking about is to the raw water pump. I have the old style.

[Steve]

Too bad….Trashing a quality boat like that (especially when it’s so new) is just criminal. The owner should be locked up.

[Steve]

sweet deal. i’m good. Thank You

[Steve]

Corey,

I’m about ready to purchase the upgrade kit but saw I this in the narrative…. “If the vessel has the analog style SC1000 gauge package, the Dieselview must remain connected in order to continue to drive the gauges.”

Naturally, I’d prefer to trash the old Dieselview display and do the straight swap BUT….How would I know if I have the analog style sc1000 gauge package?

Thank You,
Steve

[Steve]

OK. As soon as i chase down my current electronics gremlin, the SMX will replace my rapidly fading smartcraft…Thank You

[Steve]

Sirs,
I thought the options to replace the old smartcraft were either the VesselView (simple swap at the helm station, harness identical) or SMX (complete rewiring from the helm station to the engine). But Corey states one can do a SmartCraft to SMX screen replacement at the helm without the helm to engine rewiring? Did I get that right?
Thanks,
Steve

[Steve]

Brad,
Did you end up buying the Back Cove? We transitioned from a Grady White w/twin outboards to our 08 Back Cove 33 w/qsb 5.9 (425 hp). It was an experience moving to the single diesel but I have to say after 2.5 years we couldn’t be happier. I’m curious to see what you think of the boat/engine etc?
Thanks,
Steve

[Steve]

My question…is there anybody out there that has cupped their 4-blade props and what was the associated pitch change and what effect did it have on cruising and WOT speeds and other boat performance…?

And to answer this…Yes. We have a 4 blade cupped prop in a tunnel.

After an inability to reach w/in 100 rpm of our WOT (3000 rpm for us), we had it serviced by Wilmington Prop. They reduced the pitch by 1″ (now at 23×25) and fine tuned the cup. We maintained our cruise speed (17K at 2400rpm) and can now hit 2900-2950 WOT.

On a side note, we put on a spare uncupped 4 blade prop while the work was being done and noticed a significant increase in the hull vibration above the prop.

Who knows…maybe cupping your prop will increase performance, reduce noise and eliminate the pitting!

[Steve]

Sir,

Are those the original propellers and were they adjusted when the boat was repowered?

I had my prop serviced by Wilmington Propeller Service in Southern California. Talking with numerous others (including a Long Beach Harbor Pilot who has a fishing boat a few slips down), Wilmington Prop Service has a stellar reputation in the shipping industry.

The owner there told me that generally all props in tunnels should be cupped. He explained that given the propeller’s close proximity to the hull, cupping helps reduce propwash against the hull and generally makes it run more efficiently. I doubt you’d actually even notice any reverse response.

If you take create a table of your performance numbers at varying rpms, your prop guy should be able to optimize your prop and calculate what adjustment is necessary, if any.

Whether the hull pitting was caused by the prop or not, it wouldn’t hurt to see what your prop service says about your performance data and the tunnel/cup question. (I’m assuming that your guy will be as competent and trustworthy as Wilmington Propeller Service).

Good Luck Sir

[Steve]

Sirs,

I replaced the thermostat. After a number of test runs she never broke 176 bringing her to 2400rpm cruise and settled at 174-176. WOT never broke 178 and settled at 177 (staying at 2940-2950rpm).

whew….it’s about time I get an easy fix.

I’ll keep a watchful eye on my seawater pump and the aftercooler is scheduled for removal/service in early April.

Thank You for all your input.

Much Appreciated.

[Steve]

I know the pump was replaced prior to our purchase but not exactly sure when. My guess it’s 3-5 years old. I can hear the impeller buzzing along when the engine is on and there is no high pitch bearing squeal. What else can I be looking for to ensure the pump is working well?

Also, can you please tell me the best place to take IR gun readings on my QSB? I figured I’d do that as well to compare with the display (which is the old smartcraft). I’m sure the display isn’t the problem but it’s a good opportunity for me to learn something new and see if there is any difference in readings.

Would replacing the thermostat be any benefit?

Much Appreciated,
Steve

[Steve]

ESN#46709654

Per the invoice:”Adjusted raw water pump drive belt.”

[Author]

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