If your exhaust and mixer is built just right (meaning wrong) your raw water pump fills the exhaust while cranking (because the cranking pumps water) and you have no exhaust to push water out the tail pipe so you can get water flowing back into the turbo, which can be real damaging to your wallet.
My warranty was not voided by greasing up the AC at 40 hours. You might simply lean on your local Cummins guy with some common sense narrative and see if it gets you a reprieve from their warranty threat. You really do want to take that simple extra step of disassembly and grease up when brand new.
That drain plug might tell the story, looks pretty chalked up, if the inside of the air side looks like that drain plug it might be safe to say prevention would have consisted of greasing that whole thing up early on in life.
My 2013 6.7 aftercooler weeped ever so slightly from an end cap at hour number one. The Cummins tech came out on warranty and had a whole new O ring kit with him, the kit had a little pouch of white milk looking lube he planned to use. We pulled it off the engine and tore it down in my garage with less than 40 hours on it. It had the beginnings of corrosion already, he was amazed. I broke out the green grease and applied liberally and he gladly tossed away his little pouch of white lube. Pulled apart again at 650 hours and it was still greased up well and not a single sign of corrosion.
281 hours is certainly not too few to have had a corrosion failure. If you run that new AC without a thorough grease job you will be asking for a possible repeat.
Those are affordable roomy boats, but as stated 17Klbs dry and on the first day of ownership….
They tend to squat the more HP you give them. Many in the NW have hull mods such as molded hard chines added and I have seen some with a fairy nice molded swim step hull extension. These mods help this hull a lot with the squat, but as Rob says, you will need more ponies to cruise 20 knots.
Did you install the valves or come from factory with them? Still have the blank plates by chance? If so pull off the bad one, slap on the blank plate so you can still fish, then get back to a nice clean bench top. There are not that many pieces inside them. Even if you don’t have a blank off plate I don’t envision more than a few hours to pull it and take a peek inside.
As Tony says it sounds like you could have an issue with the spring that sits right before the actual valve. Or maybe the little valve itself has an issue, debris in it or whatever. The actuator lever just runs a cam that compresses a spring which moves the valve, seems like a logical place to start looking. Hopefully the issue is in the troll valve and not the gear control valve, though they are probably not that much more effort to work over.
The 280 repair manual has basic teardown info, the manual is 20MB so I grabbed just the bits with troll valve reference. Tony probably has more thorough info and can get you parts like the maint kit which should have the o-rings etc in it.
Good luck!
What does your pressure do when slowly adjusting from dead stop upwards? Does it get to a certain pressure then pop up and out of troll?
How accessible are the valves? You do have a pair and one side works fine, would only cost you time to swap them for testing purposes. Could have debris or something in one of the valves?
Bought a bucket of 424 last night, will be sucking out the Delo and replacing with the 424 tonight.
Shawn did you try and disconnect the valve from the actuator cable and run it by hand?
Does your pressure just suddenly jump and you’re out of troll? What is your bottom pressure? At just a few PSI I am essentially at a dead stop, you can stop the shaft with your hand at that point.
Have you disconnected the cable and slowly adjusted by hand right at the gear? Maybe a cable bind that jumps a little too far at a particular point?
Will be interesting to see if you get changes with the Mobil 424, please post up results.
I think the chatter could be classified near that sound, deep & low grrrrrrrrrrr that slowly bows out. My gear has done since day one. The chatter does not bother me, and never a trolling issue, but going to try the Mobil 424 and just see if it goes away. The oil swap is pretty much due so might as well see what happens.
Do you have pressure gauges on your trolling valve blocks? Pressure gauges really help tell you where you’re at in the scheme of “trolling” and take some guess work out of that lever you use to adjust speed.
Also have a 280 ZF, but V drive and run electronic troll valve and electric shift. Have been running Delo 30W in it from new (700 hours) No issues trolling, but do get chatter at least 50% of the time coming down to idle from any RPM over 1600, shift in / out of gear is immediate remedy, or flipping on troll valve is immediate remedy. Chatter does subside on its own after maybe 10-15 seconds. I think I’ll do a quick oil change to the Mobil 424 and see if chatter disappears.
3910739, Idler bearing, same bearing on the 6.7 engine, and same bearing on a few other Cummins engines, can be found at most truck shops, pretty simple swap, probably couldn’t hurt to replace both.
You’re in a little bit of a pickle- Oil changed 150 hours ago and aftercoolers done 20 hours ago, both are “reported” and doesn’t seem like any pictures were taken. Not that an oil change needs pictures, but aftercooler service sure would be nice to have some picture documentation to show what was done. If the aftercoolers were really pulled and properly greased up then you could simply have aluminum left in the oil from before the aftercoolers were serviced. Certainly changing the oil will get you some place to start, but you will be utilizing “hope” unless you can safely determine the AC’s were pulled and done right.
Does 20 hours ago mean 3 years ago with 20 hours of use in those 3 years, or 20 hours over 4 months?
Per Corey’s document 2265 is high voltage or shorted to high source voltage. Don’t think you’re looking for a low voltage issue, quite possibly the opposite. First step in the checklist is to check for voltage regulator on the lift pump. Any chance those Balmar regulators can be toned down in voltage output?
Deacon makes some fairly high temp paste/sealant compounds that are probably very suitable for the scenario of sealing up the waste gate shaft and cover.
10-4, have a Buck Alonquin screen unit coming for the hull side. I’ll keep the inside of the boat just as is, I like the Vetus for ease of dockwater engine flushing.
Hopefully get the HE and AC greased and back together this weekend.
I’ll take that as a no to my question about acceptable amount of crud that gets by the basket strainer. Ā I actually thought it didn’t look too bad for 600 hours, but then as mentioned last engine was keel cooled so no basis.
No hull strainer, just a Vetus standard basket strainer unit inside the boat. The south bay looks like it has smaller holes than my Vetus basket. The basket holes are large enough that a tree needle or small eel grass can find a route given enough time swimming around the strainer. Probably not change a thing. Last engine was keel cooled so a little new to the whole operation.
