[Tom Mann]

I believe the Evolution TXB only serves the J1708 protocol, if you are trying to diagnose using J1939, it doesn’t have the 9 pin connector. I maybe wrong but, maybe Corey could better identify the problem.

[Tom Mann]

Which tool (model) did you buy?

[Tom Mann]

“If the alternator doesn’t stop charging you’ll cook the battery” sorry for the additional post, I couldn’t edit my prior post.

[Tom Mann]

A voltage regulator sensor that’s built into the alternator is used to determine that the battery if fully charged. This allows the alternator rotor to spin without putting out any DC voltage so it doesn’t cook your battery. If the regulator does stop charging you’ll cook the batteries.

I was once offshore and my digital gauges were showing 14 volts then 15 volts on the port side. I shut down the engine, disconnected the alternator and stated my generator and used the battery charger to keep the batteries charged until I could find a new alternator.

[Tom Mann]

I would absolutely load test the batteries. You may have had a bad alternator, but you may also have one or both batteries that won’t hold a charge. If you don’t have a load tester, try to borrow one. If you always have your battery charger on while at dockside, then start the generator(also charger on) you’ll never know if your batteries will hold a charge. If you want to find out, fully charge your batteries, turn everything on 12vdc, (refrigerator, freezer, lights, etc, etc,) then try to start the engines without the emergency start switch (if you have one). Putting a full load on your batteries will tell you what condition your batteries are in. Also, the batteries should be checked every two months for water level (distilled only). In very hot weather, every month.

Tom

[Tom Mann]

I’m glad it worked out for you, how did you determine your alternator(s) were bad and it wasn’t the batteries? Did you load test the alternator and put a load test on the batteries? If you didn’t do a load test you could have been barking up the wrong tree.

Tom Mann

[Tom Mann]

DELCO 22SI 130A 12V IREF
CUMMINS MARINE APPLICATIONS

[Tom Mann]

Hi,
After propping down from 35” to 33” and retuning and balancing the props I have experienced some changes which I’ll post here.

The port and starboard engines are running closer temps at 1820 RPM cruise and 23 MPH speed:

Temps @ 163p / 165s
GPH 17.6p / 18.9s

The engines are running better than before at all RPMs and make rated RPM of 2300 on both with WOT of 2360p / 2330s.

Tony, in answering your response. Yes, I did repitch my props and it did make a big difference in the GPH, I saved a total of 5GPH between the two engines.

Before reducing pitch, as I mentioned in the original post, I changed the fuel filters including the last chance filters. I will also mention that there was only a slight vacuum on the Racor filter guage, nothing out of the norm. The bottom was also cleaned. The black “particles” were residue from the coolant leak that was repaired. I also mentioned that in the original post I had to replace the coolant tube that runs from the expansion tank to the top of the thermostat housing. Tony, I had called Brad, your parts guy to buy the tube. After describing it in detail to him, he said he would send a diagram via email in order to make sure it was the correct part? How many coolant cross over tubes that run from the expansion tank to the thermostat housing that run above the heat shield pan are there? Nevertheless, I never got the email and bought the $750 tube, O rings and new bolts from another shop. Just thought you should know as the owner why I didn’t buy the parts from you. Apparently, there was a very small crack in the flange weld of the coolant tube that had “dripped” down onto the exhaust manifold causing it to “cook” becoming a paste. The paste eventually became hard and dropped down into the bilge in a small granular particals. After awhile there was no more evidence of these particals. I’d also like to mention at no time did my engines overheat, I watch my SmartCraft SC5000 screen temps, oil psi, GPH, RPMS And volts any time I run the boat and check constantly while running

What prompted me to search for the “root” of cause of the original issues was this: the starboard engine always ran very close to the port engine on all data since new (2004). So, It was puzzling as to why the change in temps, GPH, RPM at WOT? I’m NOT saying that propping down wasn’t needed, it was and the engines run smoothly without breaking a sweat. I lost about .05 MPH at 1820 RPM, no big deal.

In my original, original post I mentioned that I had the after coolers removed, benched, cleaned at 1187 hours. The issues that prompted my post was immediately after I had the coolers done. I found out the starboard side cross over to the cooler had a very slight leak. I found this out by going into engine compartment and putting my hand under the cross over. When I spoke to another boat owner with the exact same year, make, model, engines and problem from the “other forum”, he suggested that this is where I should look because he had the same issues and this was his fix.

Evan though ALL gaskets and “O” rings were replaced (and purchased by me through SB Marine) by my mechanic, who is a Cummins trained mechanic with 40 plus years as diesel mechanic. These things happen and it could be a bad gasket, incorrectly installed gasket, bad surface. I get it, stuff happens! I’m just upset with the local Tech who told me there was nothing wrong with the starboard engine and then after trying to reflash the ECM’s to a recent version (10/17) couldn’t reflash the starboard side causing me to pay a $4000 shop bill and still have all of the same issues!

I will say this, Tony, you were absolutely correct with the prop issue! Thank you. Reducing pitch was needed with or without correcting the original issue (which was causing the check engine light to come on and throwing a fault code of low intake pressure) higher temps and more fuel burn.

Thank you,
Tom Mann
Bow Tie

[Tom Mann]

Hi Rob,
No manifold leak, I’ve inspected the engines for soot every time I’m in the bilge. I did notice some granular black particals under the engine, not a lot maybe 1/2-1 teaspoon. I’ve noticed it 5-6 weeks ago and cleaned it up, yesterday I noticed it again.

6 weeks ago I replaced the coolant pipe that runs from the expansion tank to the thermostat housing. It had a small weep that would drip coolant down onto the heat sheald beneath it and then run down onto the exhaust heat shield at the manifold. When it hit the exhaust shield it would reduce to a sticky paste. After removing the old coolant pipe I cleaned everything with spray nine. I’m thinking that there may be some coolant residual that is now burning off in a granular form? Could this be something other than coolant residual?

Additionally, yesterday I replaced the Racor 900 fuel filters with new filters. The boat ran a little better (not much) but better. They were due to be changed anyway. The engine filter, FS1009 I will replace when it arrives today. Stay tooned!

When I get get this issue straightened out I’ll know better how much pitch to remove. Right now, I think the numbers are skewed because of the issue at hand.

Thank you,
Tom Mann

[Tom Mann]

Ray,
I had a similar issue with a fuel leak years ago, after changing the Racor fuel filters and taking the metal cover off the bottom bowl off.
The “o” ring that seals the bowl between the clear site bowl and metal bottom bowl that’s mounted externally on the filter failed. I always take a clean white cloth to check for leaks after a filter change, no fuel on the cloth. I went back to the boat a week later and found diesel fuel in the bilge? I would guess about a gallon had leaked down from the Racor and into the center of the bilge between the engines. Hope this helps.

Tom M.

[Tom Mann]

Rob, I believe Tony’s numbers are where I want to be. But, I think I have another issue to deal with first. Both engines have been run at a normal daily cruise of 1820 RPM’s burning 18-19 GPH each. Today, the port has increased GPH slightly but the starboard has increased its burn dramatically, possibly the starboard engine lack of performance puts more load on the port side?

I put about 200-250 hours a year on the boat. I want to resolve the differences in the engines before I decrease the pitch. What do you think the pitch should be reduced by. The props are 28×35’s. What should the pitch be reduced by to get to Tony’s numbers?

Thanks for your input, much appreciated!
Tom

[Tom Mann]

I mentioned that the soot was oily, actually it was very think and don’t think it was oily. More of a thick paste.

Don’t know if that makes a difference but I wanted to clarify that and here is the other pic of the port side.

Tom Mann
Bow Tie

[Tom Mann]

Hello Tony & Bill,

Thank you for the information, my typical cruising speed is 23-24 MPH @ 1860 RPM’s burning 19 port engine and 20 starboard engine. That was before I cleaned the air cleaners. I will check fuel burn in a couple of days when I run to Sanibel Island for a 1.5 hr trip. I anticipate a little better on fuel. The engine will do 2360 RPM’s without breaking a sweat.
I took a couple of pics of the turbos as they were when I wrote the first post.

So, Tony what I think you are saying is: By not pushing and over loading my engines I can expect around 2500 (plus or minus) hours out of my turbos, correct? I constantly watch: temps, fuel burn, RPM, oil temp and pressure.

The black oily soot on the turbo came off easily with some soapy water, I’m still not comfortable using water but, I’ll take your word on it. Hell, 30 years of experience is good enough for me! Plus it works wonders on my wrinkled hands!

Thanks again guys!
Tom Mann
Bow Tie

Thanks

[Tom Mann]

Thanks Bill,
I read that article on th “other” forum, I’ve also been a subscriber on that forum for a few years.

Another thought, how often should turbos come off for a complete bench service and cleaning. Or am I better off to buy new turbos and install myself? Cost wise and performance wise?
As I started in my post, right now the engines have 1276 hours and the turbos are fine. What is the life span of a turbo if the engines are maintained properly, kept clean and inspected on a regular basis? I would want to replace them rather than get stuck somewhere at the mercy of a “backyard mechanic”.

I’ll be at the boat today and can send you a few pics of the turbos if you would like to see the general condition of the turbo blades before I clean them.

Thanks again,
Tom Mann
Bow Tie

[Tom Mann]

Thank you! 

But, does silicone paste have any adverse effect on the hoses I’ve used it on? I’ve used it on every hose I’ve removed, so far no issues. My local mechanic recommended it a few years ago and it makes live a lot easier removing the hose. You also mentioned “heat sensitive”, is the coolant hose off the engine ok to use it on? Engine temp is 158-160 degrees.

Tom Mann

Bow Tie

[Tom Mann]

Hello Rob & Corey,

I have questions regarding Rector seal #5 (yellow).  I also use it per Tony’s recommendation on all zincs when changing them out. When changing out a hose I’ve been using a little silicone paste, so now should I use Rector seal or will Rector seal “set” and make life difficult when trying to remove the hose?

My other question is: should I also be using Rector seal when replacing “O” rings?

 

Thanks,

Tom Mann

Bow Tie

[Tom Mann]

Sorry Corey, I was incorrect on the model, the correct model is “SC5000”  I’ll get some pics when I’m on the boat on the 23rd. of March.

Thank you,

Tom Mann

 

[Tom Mann]

Hi Tony, 

I was just now able to get back to the boat and had a meeting with my Cummins mechanic. He gave me instructions on how to put my gear into F/R manually. I wanted thank you for your response. 

Thank you, 

Tom Mann

Bow Tie

 

[Tom Mann]

Hi Tony,

Will do, it will be a while until I get to the boat as it’s 480 miles away. I was hoping that there is only one type of solenoid. I’ll get back to you with the pictures and other information you need.

 

Thanks’

Tom Mann

[Tom Mann]

Hi Corey,

I did a little research on the gateway regarding wiring and installation, looks like I’m going to be good to go with this! Thanks very much for your information. Do you still need the version number on the Smartcraft or should this be compatible?

Thanks again,

Tom Mann

[Author]

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