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  • #153556

    Bill Fuller
    Participant
    Vessel Name: Audax
    Engines: Yanmar 4LHA-STE
    Location: San Diego, CA
    Country: USA

     

    If it were me, I would go with the following

    https://www.sbmar.com/product/bronze-tee-adapter-for-freshwater-flush-system/

    The valve is only for safety.Ā  It will always be open as well the sea cock. And then this

    https://www.sbmar.com/product/stainless-freshwater-flush-thru-hull/

    and a Ā¾ inch hose barb to fit the thru-hull fitting and one to fit the top of the valve. And Ā¾ inch reinforced tubing

    All bronze, no plastic.

    Or if you have Groco strainers with a cap on the top you could go with this plus the thru-hull fitting

    https://www.sbmar.com/product/groco-arg-series-bronze-cap-with-freshwater-flush/

    When I did mine almost 24 years ago none of this commercial stuff was available.

    Regardless of how you set it up, just do it! It makes a difference.

    Bill

    #153548

    Bill Fuller
    Participant
    Vessel Name: Audax
    Engines: Yanmar 4LHA-STE
    Location: San Diego, CA
    Country: USA

    David,

    If it were me, I would go with the following:

    https://www.sbmar.com/product/bronze-tee-adapter-for-freshwater-flush-system/

    The valve is only for safety.Ā  It will always be open as well the sea cock. And then this:

    https://www.sbmar.com/product/stainless-freshwater-flush-thru-hull/

    and a Ā¾ā€ hose barb to fit the thru-hull fitting and one to fit the top of the valve. And Ā¾ inch reinforced tubing

    All bronze, no plastic.

    Or if you have Groco strainers with a cap on the top you could go with this plus the thru-hull fitting:

    https://www.sbmar.com/product/groco-arg-series-bronze-cap-with-freshwater-flush/

    When I did mine almost 24 years ago none of this over-the-counter stuff was available.

    Regardless of how you set it up, just do it! It makes a difference!

    Bill

    #153553

    Bill Fuller
    Participant
    Vessel Name: Audax
    Engines: Yanmar 4LHA-STE
    Location: San Diego, CA
    Country: USA

    If it were me, I would go with the following:

    https://www.sbmar.com/product/bronze-tee-adapter-for-freshwater-flush-system/

    The valve is only for safety.  It will always be open as well the sea cock. And then this:

    https://www.sbmar.com/product/stainless-freshwater-flush-thru-hull/

    and a Ā¾ā€ hose barb to fit the thru-hull fitting and one to fit the top of the valve. And Ā¾ inch reinforced tubing

    All bronze, no plastic.

    Or if you have Groco strainers with a cap on the top you could go with this plus the thru-hull fitting:

    https://www.sbmar.com/product/groco-arg-series-bronze-cap-with-freshwater-flush/

    When I did mine almost 24 years ago none of this over-the-counter stuff was available.

    Regardless of how you set it up, just do it! It makes a difference!

    #153551

    Bill Fuller
    Participant
    Vessel Name: Audax
    Engines: Yanmar 4LHA-STE
    Location: San Diego, CA
    Country: USA

    having trouble posting.

    this is a test

    Bill

    1 user thanked author for this post.
    #153506

    Bill Fuller
    Participant
    Vessel Name: Audax
    Engines: Yanmar 4LHA-STE
    Location: San Diego, CA
    Country: USA
    #153507

    Bill Fuller
    Participant
    Vessel Name: Audax
    Engines: Yanmar 4LHA-STE
    Location: San Diego, CA
    Country: USA
    #153505

    Bill Fuller
    Participant
    Vessel Name: Audax
    Engines: Yanmar 4LHA-STE
    Location: San Diego, CA
    Country: USA

    David,

    I’m sure it would work just fine.

    But, to me, it is just a complicated “T”.Ā  when I first looked at it I thought it was some fancy flush system with an anti reverse flow set up in the unit.Ā  Then I read they want you to shut the see cock while flushing. The cap is nice with a check Valve “?”.Ā  Lots of parts to the system. Also I did not see a price.Ā  Also, did you notice that it has to be mounted in a straight section of raw water intake hose and must be mounted so as not to touch anything.Ā  Is it fragile? It is actually pretty big. Also, I am not a fa of closing the sea cock.Ā  It is just an accident waiting to happen.Ā  Also, it does not seem to be necessary.Ā 

    The most important thing is that flushing must be really easy or you will end up not doing it.Ā  You hit the slip at 2AM and if it isn’t easy you won’t do it.Ā  And to be effective it needs to be done immediately.Ā  As in before the engines are shut down.Ā 

    I will look around on the net and see what I can find

    Bill

     

    #153363

    Bill Fuller
    Participant
    Vessel Name: Audax
    Engines: Yanmar 4LHA-STE
    Location: San Diego, CA
    Country: USA

    A couple of comments regarding your criticism/concerns.

    American Boat & Yacht Council (ABYC) standards only recommendĀ <b>two clamps</b> for exhausts and fuel fill systems. 2 clamps should not be used if there is not enough room on the hose barb for both clamps to seat properly. otherwise the second clamp will cause cutting of the hose.

    There is no significant pressure on the vinyl. Although, that was unusually heavy duty tubing not commonly available to the public. After several years it was replaced with re-enforced tubing.Ā  there was never a failure.

    Obviously, the seacock will shut off any water intrusion if a problem ever did occur. No shut off valves are required or necessary in the fresh water side of the system.

    Also, this is a U. S. Coast Guard inspected vessel and they have never had a problem the setup.

    #153343

    Bill Fuller
    Participant
    Vessel Name: Audax
    Engines: Yanmar 4LHA-STE
    Location: San Diego, CA
    Country: USA

    The simple answer is “No”.Ā  The seacock remains open so any excess fresh water will exit through the seacock.

    One unexpected result of the fresh water flushing, at least on my boat, is that the strainers remain clean for a very long time as a result of fresh water back flowing through them.

    1 user thanked author for this post.
    #153272

    Bill Fuller
    Participant
    Vessel Name: Audax
    Engines: Yanmar 4LHA-STE
    Location: San Diego, CA
    Country: USA

    David,

    Really quite simple. In the pictures you can see the freshwater line going into the fitting on the strainer and is a direct shot to the raw water intake line.

    The freshwater hose is run to any place convenient to put a garden hose fitting. As you can see, mine goes to a through hull fitting on the gunnel.Ā  Very easy to get to.

    There are no valves in the system! Th cap on the hose fitting prevents air from being sucked in at speed.Ā  The sea cock for the raw water is left open during flushing.Ā  This eliminates the possibility of accidentally leaving a valve closed.

    Flushing should be done immediately upon returning from a trip before the engines cool down. My procedure is to pull into the slip, tie up and immediately attach the hose to begin flushing on one motor while the other is left idling. Then shut down that one and flush the other.

    There are several ways to attach the freshwater hose to the raw water system. One is to tap the lid of the strainer and put a fitting into the lid. Or purchase a lit with a fitting already in place.Ā  Another method is to cut the raw water line and place a ā€œTā€ in the line.Ā  The ā€œT: will be a hose barb or some other means to attach a hose. I happen to prefer this method.

    If you have any further questions, please feel free to ask.

    Bill

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    #153192

    Bill Fuller
    Participant
    Vessel Name: Audax
    Engines: Yanmar 4LHA-STE
    Location: San Diego, CA
    Country: USA

    David, I’m also a bit late.

    I now have just shy of 8,000 hours on my motors. Everything I said 3 years ago still applies.

    Unfortunately, as I get older the boat runs less each year, especially since my son is involved in another boat.

    I have fished more on his boat than mine of late. Check it out Shearwaterfishingsd on insta gram.

    Ā At this point I have yet to replace anything on the motors.

    original heat exchangers, turbos, aftercoolers, risers, oil cooler, gear coolers, water pumps etc. I attribute this to religiously fresh water flushing after every trip of whenever the motor run.

    Also, I’m still a big fan of the D&D belts.

    It seems I do more local yellowtail and swordfish fishing than anything else. I’ve only made one tuna trip so far tis year. Hopefully a few more soon.

    let me know if you have any further questions.

    Bill

     

    #110723

    Bill Fuller
    Participant
    Vessel Name: Audax
    Engines: Yanmar 4LHA-STE
    Location: San Diego, CA
    Country: USA

    What would you like to know.
    Glad to share my experiences with you.
    Great boat.
    I have owned mine for 30 years.
    Many hours.
    Bill

    #110722

    Bill Fuller
    Participant
    Vessel Name: Audax
    Engines: Yanmar 4LHA-STE
    Location: San Diego, CA
    Country: USA

    Sorry it has taken so long to get back to you.
    I’ve been “on the road”, so to speak.
    I was able to find the original, old fashioned style mounts.
    So I can not really say anything about which R&D mount to use.
    Although, I just remembered that a friend of mine just purchased some R&D mounts. I will check with him and find out which ones he got and how they work. He also has 4LHA-STEs.
    Standby.
    Bill

    #102570

    Bill Fuller
    Participant
    Vessel Name: Audax
    Engines: Yanmar 4LHA-STE
    Location: San Diego, CA
    Country: USA

    I’m sure Tony will answer, but here are a few items.
    Sending units and gauges must match each other. Motors don’t care what they are.
    That is very fast for that boat and RPM. Are you running really light?
    Alternator belts are a real problem on these motors. It is very difficult to keep them adjusted. Continually getting loose. I have found that these belts are by far the best to use. They stay adjusted for hundreds of hours. Only cost about $10 from Amazon.
    by D&D PowerDrive
    D&D PowerDrive RECMF6460 Mitsubishi Motors Replacement Belt, 17, 1 -Band, 47.27″ Length, Rubber.
    They are a bit tight and difficult to get on the first time, but well worth the effort.
    At cruise motors should run about 178 degrees.
    What color is your coolant? Coolant is critical on these motors.
    If you are interested I can suggest a number of things for you to address. Sounds like you are already addressing a lot of them.
    where are you located?
    My motors are now just a bit shy of 6,900 hours, and over the last 20 years with them I have come to know them quite well.
    Great motors.
    Bill

    #95123

    Bill Fuller
    Participant
    Vessel Name: Audax
    Engines: Yanmar 4LHA-STE
    Location: San Diego, CA
    Country: USA

    John,

    As I stated above, be careful with the break-in. first time out be sure to have lots of time to do the break-in.
    Keep real close track of the temperature of the packing gland. Stop if need to let it cool. As the break-in come along, spray the backing gland with water to keep it cool. Cool meaning below about 140 degrees.

    Nothing like some pictures to point out all the bad areas on your boat. I will confess, as an old guy, I simply do not have the energy or ability any more to keep the boat pristine. I always thought I did a reasonable job, but these picture show where I need some work.

    Couplers are always a problem and I try to knock off all the old paint and rust and repaint every year. same with everything else. I hadn’t noticed all the oil on the catch bottle before, I need to clean it. FYI, it has about 1/2-3/4 of an inch of oil in it and has not been emptied, EVER! Thousands of hours and at least 10 years.

    The Bertram 28 is a great little boat but the bilge area is always wet. everything gets in there no mater how hard you try. After fishing, the bilge is always full of blood, etc. I clean and flush thoroughly and bleach but if you carefully on the center bulkhead you can see what is almost certainly a blood line where the bilge was not cleaned quite high enough.

    OK, enough. Everyone be safe.

    Bill

    #95049

    Bill Fuller
    Participant
    Vessel Name: Audax
    Engines: Yanmar 4LHA-STE
    Location: San Diego, CA
    Country: USA

    Hi Tony,
    Here are a few pictures as requested. I must say I am not very proud of the way it looks. But they do have 20 years of marine age.
    One thing I will mention is that I have not been able to do my normal winter/spring cleaning and maintenance.
    I have had two rather major surgeries since the middle of December which has slowed me up a bit.
    Each off-season I pressure wash, de-rust, and touch-up all paint. as well as all my normal routine stuff, which I will list for those interested.
    1. Change coolant
    2. remove seawater pumps, inspect and replace impellers
    3. Change fuel filters. I only have to change them once a year, regardless of hours. Clean tank, clean
    purchase place. 10 micron on primary, 2 micron on engine.
    4. Change alternator belts.
    5. Change transmission fluid.
    6. For me oil change is not once a year, done as needed.
    7. This year the valves will be adjusted.
    8. pressure wash, clean and paint as needed. As you can see from the photos, these are needed.
    Again not too proud of the packing gland, shaft, coupler area, in my boat this is a very wet area, and again once a year it all gets wire brushed and painted.
    Some background on my boat:
    1975 Bertram 28, purchased in early 1991 with 260 HP Mercruiser, 350 Chevies, which I ran almost 10 years, about 3,500 hours. On January 8, 2000, I ran the boat to Oxnard and it was put in Tony’s shop. The repower was complete and back to San Diego on July 15, 2000. And the rest is history as they say.
    Currently the motors have 6,645 hours which translates to about 12,000-16,000 gallons of fuel per motor.
    The first 10+ years when I was working, I put about 250-350 hours per year, Since that time closer to 500-600+ hours per year. What you see in the photos are the original everything. No repairs or replacement of anything other that the routine stuff mentioned. Fresh water flush does wonders.
    I would be happy to answer any questions.
    Bill

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    #94832

    Bill Fuller
    Participant
    Vessel Name: Audax
    Engines: Yanmar 4LHA-STE
    Location: San Diego, CA
    Country: USA

    Will Do.

    #94815

    Bill Fuller
    Participant
    Vessel Name: Audax
    Engines: Yanmar 4LHA-STE
    Location: San Diego, CA
    Country: USA

    A couple of items. This is in relation to engine drive shaft packings, not rudders.
    First I am a big fan of the grease fittings. Tony built mine 20 years ago.
    Note that his pictures show Teflon packing. Be sure to use it or at least Teflon impregnated packing. And then use pure Teflon grease.
    These will run nearly dripless once broken in. And they will be dripless at the dock.
    Tony’ pictures show the break-in procedure on the lathe. Care must be taken during the break-in period to be sure not to overheat the packing. If done in the boat, be sure to monitor the packing gland temperature with an IR gun. I have been getting 8-10 years between repackings. And that is on a plaining hull boat at 500-600 hours per year. The break-in can be slow, so be prepared to spend some time. I like to idle at first, slowly increase speed, slow down when temp rise above about 120 degrees F. and continue as long as convenient. Usually on the first offshore trip after re-packing, I monitor almost continuously when running at speed. I spray the gland with water to keep the temp below about 140 until everything settles down. It is well worth the trouble and then you are good for a very long time. Also, I only re-grease about once a year. As the packing ages, the greasing interval may need to be increased.
    Hope this helps.
    Bill

    #91816

    Bill Fuller
    Participant
    Vessel Name: Audax
    Engines: Yanmar 4LHA-STE
    Location: San Diego, CA
    Country: USA

    I have Hurth 630As, same as ZF63A.
    I change my fluid every year whether 200 hours or 600 hours, and the filter every 4 or 5 years. My fluid is always perfectly clean when it is removed. If it were dirty I might change the filter a little more often. Also when I do change filters they are always fairly clean. I am a big proponent of once a year regardless of hours.
    I have been following this protocol for 20 years and 6,600+ hours with no transmission problems. Years ago I would put 200-300 hours per year, now I am doing 500-600+ hours per year. Change the fluid once a year and the filters at what ever interval make you feel good and you should be trouble free from that aspect.
    Good luck
    Bill

    #91516

    Bill Fuller
    Participant
    Vessel Name: Audax
    Engines: Yanmar 4LHA-STE
    Location: San Diego, CA
    Country: USA

    I have 4LHA-STEs which have the same coolant issues as your 6LYAs.
    The key is, and I think this is in the Yanmar spec someplace, is that the coolant have no silicates or phosphates.
    I have used Preston Dex-Cool Extended Life coolant for 20 years with no problems. Any brand of Dex-Cool Extended Life should be OK as long as you can find some place on the label that says “silicate and phosphate free”. These are all orange in color.
    If you cannot find the “silicate and phosphate free” on the label I would not use it.
    I have attached a picture of an older label and a newer label of the Preston Extended Life Dex-Cool coolant.
    By the way, I change mine every year. But I also put 500-700 hours per year on the motors.

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