Water in Transmission after estuary trial

[john hutchings]

Tony et al,

Appreciate all the info I have been able to glean from your site as I have been trying to get my Strike 26 rehab back in the water. Needless to say your horror stories re wet exhaust elbows are very believable. The OEM Nippon Denso starter on this factory recon 6BT w only 52 hours had been at least partially(?) submerged at some point while the boat languished unused and in the water for 3, 4, or ? years. Replaced bendix clutch assembly and resolved starting problem. Stator and armature in pristine condition. You were absolutely correct that fuel condition was not the issue, engine fired on the first revolution when I was merely confirming my starter rebuild. One of the few pleasant surprises so far. Dry exhaust elbow fell apart, literally, when I was putting the wet exhaust back together. Bead was magnetic and had virtually NO penetration into the stainless tubing 90s. Back to the tranny with water in it. Original inspection had clean oil (ATF? or 30 wt?) Ran first trial for appr. an hour no issues, water temp indicated 180, EGT @ post turbo flange rose to 800 f @ 2000 rpm and dropped proportionately w throttle. 2nd time in water idled ahead a short distance wo issue. Tied up to dock while adjusting trailer bunks. Upon attempt to return to ramp lost ahead propulsion, retained astern. Checked trans dipstick and found emulsified fluid and appears to be low. Possible for water to intrude through vent(?) on top of trans? Possible? Or Trans Hex fail allowing trans fluid to get sucked out with raw water to engine Hex/wet exhaust? More likely scenario? Engine Hex was pristine when I had it off for stater r & r, but appear that trans Hex was neither replaced nor serviced when engine was replaced. Flush and refill trans a couple of times? Or bite the bullet and pull the trans Hex on general principles before I flush and try to save the trans? Probably just answered my own question. But still need your expertise to advise on fluid, Dexron ATF?, 30 wt non-detergent? Or? Any idea as to what this particular trans may be? Or where to look for a nameplate? Thanks again for publishing, and in advance for your advice. Another Napa gem next time I can get South

Topic

[Tony Athens]

#1———-Bypass the oil cooler — Just put the 2 oil lines together

#2———Fill the gear with 50-50 #2 diesel & 15-40, ATF or 30 wt.. Does not matter at this point………..Run for a few minutes at the dock , in & out of gear- drain and do that 3-4 times..

#3– fill with new oil, drive around the harbor for 15 minutes–low RPM’s –Run around until the gear is a tad too hot to touch (160-180 F- remember no cooler)..

#4–Does it seem to work OK?

#5—Get yourself a new gear cooler–The BW gear uses a low pressure cooler circuit

#6—————-I want to “SEE” inside your turbo exhaust outlet

#7-With a Bendix like that, 100% for sure the drive plate, etc. in-between the gear & the engine are in as bad as shape or worse–It’s also “Doomed to Failure” ——————-I guarantee it!

#8–Don’t know how long you have owned the boat, but I’d be totally embarrassed to lift the hatch if I owned the boat–Put some serious time into the engine room.

Do all of this or you loose more help from me. I take no prisoners when I see an engine room like this………….

Tony

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