Cummins Marine Diesel Repower Specialists › Forums › Cummins Marine Engines › Propping the 6BTA5.9-M3
- This topic has 11 replies, 5 voices, and was last updated 5 years ago by Mike P.
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October 14, 2018 at 9:12 pm #38440
Curtis J McNameeParticipantVessel Name: Silver Seas
Engines: 6BTA5.9-M3
Location: Mill Creek, WA 35 mi North of Seattle
Country: United States
I need to figure out if my engines are propped correctly for the best operating conditions. I have a pair of 6BTA5.9-M3 370 hp engines in my 2002 Silverton 39MY
Maybe there is already and article written on this.
Any help would be greatly appreciated.
Cheers,
Curt
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October 18, 2018 at 10:06 am #38643
Thanks Tony. I do not have boost gauges so will need to install them. I do know that at the 3000 rpm range, my EGT is around 840 degrees. Boat is now out of the water for the season but that will be done next spring.
October 18, 2018 at 3:12 am #38631
Tony AthensModeratorVessel Name: Local Banks
Engines: QSB 6.7 550 HP
Location: Oxnard, CA
Country: USA
If you really want to find out if you are leaving some “power on the table” that you would like to use, then install accurate boost gauges and pyro’s that you can use for testing..
Make a chart with RPM’s, vessel speeds, boost numbers and pyro readings…. Your engine can make up to about 30 PSI when making full BHP in the 3000 RPM range and EGT’s should not go above 900-950F if all is right…………. If you were really under propped ( maybe only making 300 BHP at 3100-3150, and the engines were is really good shape, then you might see 23 PSI and 750F at WOT…. Boost is really the number that tells the story.
Tony
October 17, 2018 at 12:33 pm #38605Related Question
I have been reading and following along here. I have the same motors in a 37″ SeaRay EC boat. I understand that I should be reaching 3,150 RPM’s which I do. My question (because I repowered the boat from original gas motors) is; Is there any other way of knowing that I am under-propped, short of swapping props and doing sea trials? While the boat seems to move along fairly well at a max RPM speed of 35 mph, I wonder if I might still be able to add a little cup or pitch and gain just a bit more speed? Of course I still want to maintain my max RPM’s of 3,150. Is it either better or worse on the engines if a boat is slightly under-propped?
October 16, 2018 at 3:03 pm #38548
Curtis J McNameeParticipantVessel Name: Silver Seas
Engines: 6BTA5.9-M3
Location: Mill Creek, WA 35 mi North of Seattle
Country: United States
I have the same engines (1999) and about the same size boat ā Iām running with two 24X26X4 on a 2ā³ shaft with a 6ā³ hub. Might not be your answer, but hopefully something close.
Hi Paul- My props are 24X24 also on a 2″ shaft
October 16, 2018 at 11:20 am #38532
PaulParticipantVessel Name: Changes in L'Attitudes
Engines: Twin Cummins 330HP 6BTA 5.9-M-3
Location: Merritt Island, FL
Country: USA
Just to get you in the ball park
I have the same engines (1999) and about the same size boat – I’m running with two 24X26X4 on a 2″ shaft with a 6″ hub. Might not be your answer, but hopefully something close.
October 15, 2018 at 8:03 am #38465
Curtis J McNameeParticipantVessel Name: Silver Seas
Engines: 6BTA5.9-M3
Location: Mill Creek, WA 35 mi North of Seattle
Country: United States
Hi Tony- First….thanks for having this site and helping us all out with questions !!!
I will gather more information about my engines for you and post it on this thread.
Cheers,
Curt
October 15, 2018 at 7:45 am #38457
Tony AthensModeratorVessel Name: Local Banks
Engines: QSB 6.7 550 HP
Location: Oxnard, CA
Country: USA
Curt,
Hard starting just about never indicates anything to do with your injectors…Injectors typically can go 5000-10,000 hrs plus on these engines if you are feeding them water free / contamination free #2………………………
Let’s “SEE” good pictures of your engines installation–Focus on the exhaust–all of it–All angles & all perspectives.
Good pic of the “turbo leak” !!
Aftercoolers were last serviced per my protocol when?
Tony……….
October 15, 2018 at 7:22 am #38454
Curtis J McNameeParticipantVessel Name: Silver Seas
Engines: 6BTA5.9-M3
Location: Mill Creek, WA 35 mi North of Seattle
Country: United States
Hi Rob- I have an oil seal leak in my starboard turbo and my injectors have never been serviced…hard starting, smoke indicates unburned fuel.
Cheers,
Curt
October 15, 2018 at 5:29 am #38450
Rob SchepisForum ModeratorVessel Name: Tenacious
Engines: 6BTA 5.9 330's - "Seaboard Style"
Location: Long Island, NY
Country: USA
Digital Tach recommendation = LCD (not LED) Aetna’s getting signal from the magnetic pickup on the bellhousing.
Injectors? Why?
Turbo Overhaul? Why? 99% an indicator of a dangerous poorly designed exhaust system and/or engine room vents allowing salt ingestion on the air side.
Your engines should have no problem maintaining thermostat temperature at 1,400 -1,600 rpms. Are you referring to coolant temps or EGT?
October 15, 2018 at 5:03 am #38449
Curtis J McNameeParticipantVessel Name: Silver Seas
Engines: 6BTA5.9-M3
Location: Mill Creek, WA 35 mi North of Seattle
Country: United States
Hi Rob- Thanks for the feedback….I know my tachs are not reading correctly so I have strobed the shafts and created a correction RPM table ( I would like to install digital Tac’s)…any suggestions ??
I am currently having my injectors and one turbo overhauled and installing a fuel flow system, once I have that done I will see what I have.
My props are tired and need to be replaced (I will keep them as spares) My goal is to get new props that are set up properly for my engines.
I typically run my boat at 14-1600 rpm, I like the slower pace…I am not in a big hurry and it saves fuel and keeps me in a position to see logs and crab pots.
Towards the end of my run, I will power up to bring the engines to temp and run that way for 5 minutes or so as many have recommended.
Thanks for the help !!!
Curt
October 15, 2018 at 4:09 am #38446
Rob SchepisForum ModeratorVessel Name: Tenacious
Engines: 6BTA 5.9 330's - "Seaboard Style"
Location: Long Island, NY
Country: USA
That’s as straight forward as it gets – no graphs, no spreadsheets, no data to interpolate. On the mechanical engine it is one number you need to verify and verify it 100% – RPM at Wide Open Throttle (WOT).
But before you do that you need to be 100% certain of your actual rpm’s vs. what your helm gauges are reading. This is done with a handheld laser tach. Usually this is just done at the dock at idle, mid range and high rpm. However, if your engine room allows, the most accurate way to do this might be at the engine at WOT out at sea on the right day. Not as easy and may not be necessary but I recently inspected a set of 6BTA’s and the tachs were very erratic so taking the reading at one or two rpms and using the delta was not a close enough approach as the delta was not constant and it was just easier to do it on the run but we had the right folks and right conditions to do so. You don’t by chance have Aetna digitals as in my pic do you?
When you are out on that sea trial you need to be sure you have a clean or normal bottom, not a fouled bottom, and make the boat heavy. At least as heavy as you normally plan to use it – full fuel and water tanks, all the gear and all the persons. You can simulate some of this with garbage pails and/or coolers full of water.
These engines needs to be propped to make an honest 3-5% over rated rpm. Your rated rpm is 3,000.
So what do you have now for tachs and what WOT rpm are you seeing?
Let’s see a pic of your helm station. You may have tachs that can be calibrated.
You should also check your no load WOT (neutral at the dock with an engine that is up to temp, not cold) and on your engine that should be close to 3.400 rpms.
Spend time searching and reading here, a lot of this is covered but maybe more in dribs and drabs here and there, not all inclusive, so this was good…
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