New Diesel Engine owner (sorry, it's a yanmar)

[Gary Marshall]

I just wanted to greet everyone.

I just bought my first Diesel. An Albin 28 2005 model flush deck powered with a 315 yanmar. I wish I could have gotten a cummins B series, but that just isn’t available in the flush deck design I wanted.

That said, I will be reading and researching as much as possible to keep this engine working well for as long as possible. It is the original engine, and had about 900 hours on it. It was in fresh water most of its life, and then it moved to Florida for a couple of years where it was flushed with fresh water after use.

Now….it is working commercially as a fishing boat, 10 – 12 hours per day, 6 – 7 days per week, going between idle and 7 knots, 98% of the time.

There are any boat projects on the go, as I learn the vessel, but one of the first is to reduce the pitch of the prop as I am just getting about 3600 rpm at WOT. I did get 3700 rpms measured on the tach when I sea trialed the boat, and the engine survey done the year in front showed the true rpms seemed about 150 more than the boat tach. Either way, the boat needs to be propped for its current sea conditions and additional weight with coolers and ice, etc.. I think a 2″ pitch drop should do it.

Additionally, looking at changing from the Racor 900 series fuel filter to one of the recommended multi filtrations setup from SBMAR. I don’t have any issues now, but want to prevent them down the road as will probably do 2500+ hours per year.

Topic

[Gary Marshall]

Also, in looking to change the timing belt this coming weekend….I assume I need the correct size socket in order to rotate the engine so the TDC marks line up. I was trying to find the socket size in the service manual, but haven’t been able to locate it. Any idea on what size it might be?

[Gary Marshall]

Thanks for the quick reply Rob!
Do you currently or previously own one of these Albins? You sure have a lot of info on them! 😉
I didn’t check the impeller. I thought about it, but when I found out about the dry start the boat had already fished the day fine and the temperature was normal and pumping water as normal. I do plan to change it soon as part of the normal servicing though.
Thanks for the info on the burnt wires. I hadn’t noticed any voltage change, but will look out for that. Will also see what I can do about repairing the repair or replacing the heaters.
I do want to apologize just for a second as I know I’m taking a while to get stuff done on this engine, and I’m really appreciative of all the great advice I’ve received so far. Right now, I only have Saturdays to dedicate to getting things running right, and most of this Sat I was dealing with some electrical wiring for the bilge pumps and some other matters. Have a 15 month old son, so doing my best to balance family, work and boat. 😉

[Rob Schepis]

Good deal on the actual rpms being higher than the helm tach — not often you get “free” rpm’s. Do verify at various cruise rpms and WOT rpms and make a reference table on an index card or such. What tach? Maybe it’s adjustable.

A couple things as to your fire. The 6LP is factory equipped with a raw water flow switch. It’s on the seawater intake side of the intercooler, right next to the 1/2″ zinc – see pics. That should have sounded an alarm. Pull that hose off and investigate. Unfortunately it sounds like it will be a needed tool for this Capt.

The burnt wires are for the intake air heaters. . Ever notice the Volt gauge at less than battery voltage on your initial startup and motoring out of the marina? This is a HIGH amperage system. You’re “repair” is not satisfactory and not safe. In your climate especially you do not even need them. Disconnect the control circuit. Then consider removing them and replacing the heaters with blanking plugs. Check with Mastry about the blanking plugs. As we already covered, a good part of the engine access on the Flush Deck is limited. Here’s what you’ll need to do to access their removal

What did the impeller look like after the dry run ?

[Gary Marshall]

The other day the captain of the boat forgot to open the seacock for the engine, and the insulation above the engine caught fire, and burnt one of the wires. It didn’t seem to affect the running of the engine, but I reconnected the wire the best I could. Any clue on what this wire affects?

[Gary Marshall]

I was able to check the tachometer yesterday using a strobe. There was reflective tape already installed from the previous owner, so I didn’t have to guess at where to put it. You can see it in the pic below.
So, the true rpms are actually quite a bit higher than the boat tachometer. With the boat in neutral, with the engine revving at 3000 rpms, I registered approx. 3150 on the strobe. Therefore, since I know the boat generally tops out around 3600 rpms on the tach, I know the true rpms is likely > 3800.
From a previous engine survey, it topped out at 3843, likely under ideal circumstances.
Next time the boat is going out, with a full load, I plan to check the rpms to get a true indication. At least I know that while the prop could probably drop 1 to 2” in pitch, it isn’t as bad as I previously thought. When I have this measurement, I will post it here so I get suggestions on what prop to change to.
Also, I notice that my shaft is 1.5” but I have a spare prop with a hole of 1.25”…..does this make sense? If I order a prop, I sure don’t want to order one that can’t work.

[Gary Marshall]

Thanks for that docking advice. With my other boat being twin outboards…..it sure is a change, especially without the thruster.
Luckily the tie up at the fishing pier to load up is to the starboard side of the vessel!

[Rob Schepis]

It definitely meets the criteria of the first two.

Anyone with a single screw and bow thruster should practice docking without the thruster because some day it will not be there. It looks like you are getting thrown right into that training.

With her left hand prop she walks to starboard in reverse, so leave the rudder hard to port and accept the fact that she will rotate counter-clockwise ONLY………… So 270deg CCW is the way to go, not 90deg CW That is the key to close quarter maneuvering.

Short “bursts” of reverse will keep her straight and she will only walk when the prop is turning

Whenever possible go for a starboard side “side-to” tie up and use the stern walk to your advantage..

[Gary Marshall]

Thanks much Rob! That will make my life easier!
Yea – looking back, the engine box model might have been better, and it would have allowed me to get the Cummins 370….
But the issue with that model was a lack of space to put the fish….
Anyhow, what’s done is done. Perhaps over time I will modify some things on the boat to make access easier. You live and learn. 😉
I bought the boat as a balance between a family cruiser/recreational fishing and a hard core commercial fishing boat. It’s a sweet boat thus far, other than the engine room being tight, and the boat isn’t the easiest to maneuver with a tiny rudder and the bow thruster isn’t working.

[Rob Schepis]

Zincs and Service Manual

Yup, the Albin 28TE was designed and built as the engine box model. When they morphed it into the flush deck several things were an afterthought…

The number of zincs on a 6LP will change based on your fuel cooler and tranny cooler and if someone used a zinc port for a dripless shaft seal cooling hose.

Try this service manual

[Gary Marshall]

I did a little net research on the zincs.
Seems like the one on the end cap of the freshwater cooler either has to be changed by removing the endcap of the cooler, or loosening the cooler and easing it off a bit. So, will have to investigate that.
The big one on the top of the intercooler is normally the “easy one”. However, the port side of the engine is under the floor of the boat and can only be accessed via the side bunk in the boat…..and the top of the engine is flush up against the padding used to muffle the engine. I can get a spanner over the zinc but it isn’t budging. I can’t fit a socket with the lack of clearance. Thinking I might use a hole saw to cut a hole above the zinc location and use a long socket/extension bar. Will give it some thought.
Interestingly enough I count 6 zincs on the engine (I didn’t check the transmission, but there may be one on there too). Most of the research, and the zinc package for these on boatzincs.com suggests 5 zincs.

[Gary Marshall]

Today wasn’t as successful as I would have liked, but I enjoy a day on the boat nonetheless.
We changed 4 of 6 pencil zincs. There was one on the rear of the freshwater cooler that was impossible to change, as it was blocked by, I believe the transmission (yes, now I realize I should have taken a pic). I think the cooler might have to be taken off to change the zinc….
and one above the intercooler that is blocked by the boat itself….I think I might have to make a hole in the floor of the boat covering that in order to get at that one.
Also changed the Racor primary fuel filter, which I hadn’t done before.
I realize there are a few differences between my service manual which is for a 6LPA-STP2 and my engine (6LPA-STP). Would anyone have an electronic version of the service manual for my engine I could arrange to get? I want to make sure I have all I need to change the timing belt in a week or two.
Thanks,
Gary

[Gary Marshall]

Thanks Tony!
Will post as soon as I get the tach readings. That is likely next weekend once I get the strobe and arrange for some assistance.

[Tony Athens]

Gary,

Until you verify tach readings, all is up in the air–You can do this at the dock, in neutral, engine warm–Use 3000-3400 for initial testing and accuracy..Write it all down like having a “compass card” …Then blip WOT and write down what the tach says..

Remember this–The more zincs the engine has used over the years the more clogging you have of the tube with old zinc..

Other Albin’s–Not of your concern–This is your Albin, and, it is what it is.. As to final propping–You basically CANNOT under prop this engine–you can only over prop it, and that is especially so in an application like yours..

Tony

[Gary Marshall]

Thanks!
I am actually checking zincs tomorrow. The zincs had just been changed when I bought the boat in January so didn’t worry with them as yet.
The timing belt is in, but will take a week or so to clear customs, so that job is lined up for next weekend or the following one (as soon as I get the parts)
Will have the tachometer strobe to check the rpms by then as well.
I’ll see who can help me locally with cleaning the coolers/salt water components.
I plan to haul the boat in a month or so, so what doesn’t get done before will get done them.
What is the rule of thumb for changing pitch? Some places I saw 1” pitch was worth 100 rpms, but somewhere else I saw it was worth 200 rpms. Dropping from 18” to 14” seems pretty drastic though…espec since I read on the Albin owners forum that most are propped at 19 or 18”.
Good spot on the thru-hull exhaust connection. The leading scew had actually come out and bent the plate. I went to put in a replacement screw (with the boat in the water) and it actually only went in, maybe a cm. I’m actually shocked it is still holding.
What should I get from Seaboard Marine (in addition to the 116L mixing elbow)? It does take about a month with regular shipping, clearing for me to get freight stuff down here?

[Rob Schepis]

A Few Things

I would focus immediate attention on:
– Valve Adjustment
– Timing Belt / Tensioner
– WOT Propping to 4K Fully Loaded
– Aftercooler (aka Air Cooler or Intercooler) Removal, Cleaning and Servicing
– Saltwater Components Cleaning/Servicing

I mention the aftercooler servicing but I wonder if it is even removable on the flush deck the way she’s tucked under the port helm deck???

And the exhaust – You have zero room for a real riser so you will have to pull the current mixing elbow and dry bend and inspect the turbo and hope for the best. Do not re-use the Yanmar OEM mixer. Seaboard can provide you with a cast 316L unit.

That dry bend (number 6 in the diagram) is subject to fracture at the lipped ends. I have seen numerous ones fail, cast iron likes to fracture like glass or hard plastic. Can happen at any time but a pound into a wave could be the final straw and the impact/shock snaps the end off.

And lastly and VERY important. Albin did not do a good job with the side outlet (thru-hull) exhaust connection. They are prone to leaking and several of the screws are liking doing nothing as they are barely grabbing any fiberglass material. You can see on the exterior shot that yours is already pulling away and the way the boat rides the water is constantly putting pressure on the leading edge of the assembly. You probably get a bit of a rooster tail there? I’d keep a Nerf football aboard keep a good eye on that until you get the boat hauled and you can rebed that connection. The connecting exhaust hose also looks like replacement is in order.

You’ve probably got the zincs covered by now but I’m posting the seawater component diagrams with zinc locations…

Hope this helps..Good luck with her.

[Gary Marshall]

I’m hoping Tony and others can help me set this up right.
It is working well so far, and I’m at about 1300 engine hours right now. The commercial fishermen put on about 125-150 hours every 3 weeks (when I change the oil and filter)
I’m interested in adding the SMX double filtration kit w/ primer bulb , once I can squeeze it in there before the Racor. Or maybe just take out the Racor.
I’m also looking to change the prop. The current prop is a 19 x 18 michigan 4 blade. I’m only getting 3600 rpms, and should be getting 4000. I’m in the process of getting a tachometer strobe to verify how accurate the boat tach is. Then I will have to guess at how much to reduce the pitch by.
I have a timing belt on the way in, as that is supposed to change at 1250 hours, so is overdue.
I’m on the boat on Saturdays, so if anyone wants specific photos of anything, I will try to get them then.
Thanks all for any suggestions you have.

Gary

[Gary Marshall]

some of the sea water intake…and some of the exhaust

[Gary Marshall]

some more…

[Gary Marshall]

Now, onto the yanmar 6LPA-STP…

[Gary Marshall]

In the previous picks, I’m trying to show the exhaust which exits on the port side of the boat….and follow it back to the engine. Here are a couple more.

[Author]

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