New Diesel Engine owner (sorry, it's a yanmar)

[Gary Marshall]

I just wanted to greet everyone.

I just bought my first Diesel. An Albin 28 2005 model flush deck powered with a 315 yanmar. I wish I could have gotten a cummins B series, but that just isn’t available in the flush deck design I wanted.

That said, I will be reading and researching as much as possible to keep this engine working well for as long as possible. It is the original engine, and had about 900 hours on it. It was in fresh water most of its life, and then it moved to Florida for a couple of years where it was flushed with fresh water after use.

Now….it is working commercially as a fishing boat, 10 – 12 hours per day, 6 – 7 days per week, going between idle and 7 knots, 98% of the time.

There are any boat projects on the go, as I learn the vessel, but one of the first is to reduce the pitch of the prop as I am just getting about 3600 rpm at WOT. I did get 3700 rpms measured on the tach when I sea trialed the boat, and the engine survey done the year in front showed the true rpms seemed about 150 more than the boat tach. Either way, the boat needs to be propped for its current sea conditions and additional weight with coolers and ice, etc.. I think a 2″ pitch drop should do it.

Additionally, looking at changing from the Racor 900 series fuel filter to one of the recommended multi filtrations setup from SBMAR. I don’t have any issues now, but want to prevent them down the road as will probably do 2500+ hours per year.

Topic

[Rob Schepis]

Prop Puller

The pro pull works perfectly on your boat. Here’s a shot of me using it (not on an Albin) but same puller.

[Gary Marshall]

A couple more questions…
1) I assumed removing the propeller would be just like an outboard. Basically just remove the nut and the split pin, and the prop falls off. Seems like this was a little naïve, and I might need some sort of puller. Also seems like it might be more challenging with a 4 blade prop to get a puller which works. Any suggestions as to a good puller to get?
2) Speaking of prop. I now understand better what you said before…about a tapered shaft. How are props even measured? I know my shaft is 1.5” but the spare prop I have ….it’s hole on one side is a shade under 1.5” and it tapers down to 1.25” on the other side……is there a standard taper?
3) Would I need a puller to get the impeller out the seawater pump as well?
I was also wondering about cooler maintenance. I know on the outboards I used to take off the lower unit, and use a bilge pump to send a solution of Ridlyme up the engine. A bucket would catch it as it exited through the exhaust, and be sent up again by the pump. I removed the thermostat as well for this to work. I would do this for a few hours to help dissolve any buildup.
It seems like people use a similar system for the inboards, either with Ridlyme, or diluted muriatic acid….
Of course, if a cooler is really in need of cleaning….seems like it can be removed and cleaned at a radiator place as well….but with the difficult access, it seems like the acid is an easier way out.
What are the feelings on the best way to clean the cooling system?

[Gary Marshall]

Yeah – through the aft berth access panel….

Initially this seemed pretty straightforward, but with the challenging access I’m tempted to wait until I haul the boat. I still have to be able to motor the boat from the jetty back to the mooring after I am finished.

[Rob Schepis]

6LP Impeller

Easiest is to pull the pump and do the impeller change on the bench. Have not done one on a Flush Deck TE but I’d bet this still applies. Gonna be through the aft berth access panel, right? Too much fun!

[Gary Marshall]

Alright, so I disconnected the circuit, and taped up the connectors.

I was also able to change the large zinc on top the intercooler. Having the correct spanner made the job easier.

I have had to cut about a 1/2″ off the end of each zinc to get them to fit.

I also remembered that the other day when I went to change a hose clamp on the seacock for the engine, the seacock is leaking a fair bit of water in the closed position. While this isn’t great, it also means that the engine was still getting some water passing through when it was started a few weeks back. So, this was a bit lucky. I was going to check the impeller today, but where it is…..looks pretty difficult, so wanted to do a bit more homework first before I tackle that.

[Gary Marshall]

Ah, ok – that looks even easier. I thought that was a different circuit for something else. I will look at it closely when I get to the boat in a couple of hours.

[Rob Schepis]

Air Heater Disconnect

No, not there, you always want to target the “control circuit”. Just “pull the plug”. See attached.

[Gary Marshall]

Rob in my earlier post with the burnt wires, you had said –
The burnt wires are for the intake air heaters. . Ever notice the Volt gauge at less than battery voltage on your initial startup and motoring out of the marina? This is a HIGH amperage system. You’re “repair” is not satisfactory and not safe. In your climate especially you do not even need them. Disconnect the control circuit. Then consider removing them and replacing the heaters with blanking plugs. The burnt wires are for the intake air heaters. . Ever notice the Volt gauge at less than battery voltage on your initial startup and motoring out of the marina? This is a HIGH amperage system. You’re “repair” is not satisfactory and not safe. In your climate especially you do not even need them. Disconnect the control circuit. Then consider removing them and replacing the heaters with blanking plugs.
The guys were out fishing last night and when they started the engine, they could smell a burning smell, and raised the engine cover and noticed that one wire was smoldering and burning off the insulation.
You said I could just disconnect them. Would I just be easily be able to remove this piece of the wire harness? It’s a little difficult to see where. Would it be just undoing under the cover where I have circled in the attached?

[Rob Schepis]

1.5=1.5″ shaft
Oh, that’s funny re: the distilled water – premix is easier anyway!

[Gary Marshall]

ok – good to know re: the prop. What’s the 1.5 in the prop number for?

I can’t get get the straight coolant – only the premixed stuff….which is ok as distilled water here costs more than the coolant!

[Rob Schepis]

My 28TE prop: LH 4-blade nibral 19x18x1.5
Yes the shaft is tapered. A 1.5″ shaft will taper down to ~1.25″ at the small end of the prop bore.
Staying with the same coolant and no issues?….. I’d just drain and refill – buy the straight stuff and go 50/50 with distilled water.

[Gary Marshall]

I bought a spanner to fit the big zinc exactly, as I was trying to use an adjustable to get it, without any success. There is not enough ceiling room to use a socket…hopefully I get that changed this weekend.
Rob – you don’t recall which prop you had on your Albin? Mine is a quad blade 19” x 18”, but the shaft size has me confused. Another “spare” prop came with the boat, but has a 1.25” hole for the shaft….but I know my shaft is 1.5”…..unless it tapers down by the prop…..
I also plan to change the coolant soon. Luckily I am able to get the same Prestone Extended Life Coolant as is currently being used in the engine. Is it just drain and replace? Or should I flush the system out with the hose or some battery water? I know this is probably simple and routine, but it’s not something I had to do before with my outboards….

[Gary Marshall]

Rob – I was looking at where the raw water switch was in your pic. That looks to be in a pretty impossible place to get at in the boat, but I’ll check it on Sat/

[Rob Schepis]

Thanks Gary.

Philip,
Yes double double (and squeeze ball) is on “the list”. Just changed my last chances and cut them open. Here’s how they looked at 150 hours. Not horrible but there is much room for improvement. Tony mentioned the option of installing a FS19513 in front of the Racor and dropping the Racor from a 10 down to a 2 micron. However, I’ll likely eBay the Racors and go the double double route.

[Gary Marshall]

Pretty damn sweet!!! I enjoyed the pics!!! love the control station!!!

As much as the Albin 28 is a step up from my other boat, I can certainly see what this boat can offer that the Albin can’t.

[Philip]

Rob –

Surprised to see the Racors vs Double Doubles….. got plans?

[Rob Schepis]

Current Vessel

What’s your vessel now?

Gary current vessel is a 1974 36′ Chris Craft Commander Tournament repowered in 2001/2002 w/ 330B’s.
Prior owner was “on his game” so I had a great starting point but from the first day I acquired her in 2014 she continues to get better.
A lot of work, but she returns the benefits every time we are aboard – at rest or on the run, she does it all quite well…

[Gary Marshall]

Rob Schepis wrote:

Gary, to answer your question on me owning an Albin —- Yes, I had a this 6LP powered 2000 28TE from 2007 to 2014. Great boat!

Awesome! I know I’ve seen pics of it before – I wouldn’t forget that name. Don’t recall where, but I sure did a lot of Albin 28 research before I bought this one. What’s your vessel now?

[Rob Schepis]

Gary, to answer your question on me owning an Albin —- Yes, I had a this 6LP powered 2000 28TE from 2007 to 2014. Great boat!

[Rob Schepis]

Don’t know the size, maybe someone else will. Here’s a shot of what you’ll be looking at. You can measure the bolt with a caliper and/or have a few in that size range on hand…

[Author]

Replies