Cummins Marine Diesel Repower Specialists Forums General Discussion New Diesel Engine owner (sorry, it's a yanmar)

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  • #18020

    Gary Marshall
    Participant
    Vessel Name: Wine Down (Albin 28 TE); Bull Dolphin (Bowen 28ft Pirogue)
    Engines: Yanmar 6LP-STP ; twin Suzuki DF140s
    Location: Consett Bay
    Country: Barbados

    I just wanted to greet everyone.

    I just bought my first Diesel. An Albin 28 2005 model flush deck powered with a 315 yanmar. I wish I could have gotten a cummins B series, but that just isn’t available in the flush deck design I wanted.

    That said, I will be reading and researching as much as possible to keep this engine working well for as long as possible. It is the original engine, and had about 900 hours on it. It was in fresh water most of its life, and then it moved to Florida for a couple of years where it was flushed with fresh water after use.

    Now….it is working commercially as a fishing boat, 10 – 12 hours per day, 6 – 7 days per week, going between idle and 7 knots, 98% of the time.

    There are any boat projects on the go, as I learn the vessel, but one of the first is to reduce the pitch of the prop as I am just getting about 3600 rpm at WOT. I did get 3700 rpms measured on the tach when I sea trialed the boat, and the engine survey done the year in front showed the true rpms seemed about 150 more than the boat tach. Either way, the boat needs to be propped for its current sea conditions and additional weight with coolers and ice, etc.. I think a 2″ pitch drop should do it.

    Additionally, looking at changing from the Racor 900 series fuel filter to one of the recommended multi filtrations setup from SBMAR. I don’t have any issues now, but want to prevent them down the road as will probably do 2500+ hours per year.

Viewing 20 replies - 61 through 80 (of 126 total)
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  • #21825

    Gary Marshall
    Participant
    Vessel Name: Wine Down (Albin 28 TE); Bull Dolphin (Bowen 28ft Pirogue)
    Engines: Yanmar 6LP-STP ; twin Suzuki DF140s
    Location: Consett Bay
    Country: Barbados

    Rob – you were spot on with the +ve bus bar! You have no idea how many hours I have spent searching for this before.

    The bottom side is “always on” and the top side is powered by the battery switch. For some reason the stereo was wired to the bottom (which I will change to the top) and that had an inline fuse which had blown. Then I realize the wire next to it was going to a circuit breaker which had tripped. When I clicked that back, I got back power to my two float switches.

    I also spent a few hours on the wiring, removing some cables which are no longer in use….and labeling others. A nice productive day.

    Tomorrow I carry my mechanic cousin who helped me with the timing belt, scuba diving, to thank him….(and also to mention I’ll need a hand with checking the valves soon! 🙂 )

    The engine wouldn’t start this evening when I was going to put the boat back at the mooring. And after about 15 minutes of internal panic, and fooling around with my multimeter…. my boat captain realized that someone must have bumped the boat into gear….! I was pretty relieved!

    #21757

    Gary Marshall
    Participant
    Vessel Name: Wine Down (Albin 28 TE); Bull Dolphin (Bowen 28ft Pirogue)
    Engines: Yanmar 6LP-STP ; twin Suzuki DF140s
    Location: Consett Bay
    Country: Barbados

    Awesome ! no wonder you can find something so fast! Gives me inspiration to start something similar.

    #21752

    Rob Schepis
    Forum Moderator
    Vessel Name: Tenacious
    Engines: 6BTA 5.9 330's - "Seaboard Style"
    Location: Long Island, NY
    Country: USA

    On boats with shorepower systems the yellow for DC neg is to avoid confusion with AC hot.

    Yeah thousands for sure. Here’s the Albin (TOY-RIFIC) and the Chris-Craft (TENACIOUS) folders…. I think they speak for themselves! Definitely a bit over the top but they come in real handy and everything is FULLY documented…..

    #21746

    Gary Marshall
    Participant
    Vessel Name: Wine Down (Albin 28 TE); Bull Dolphin (Bowen 28ft Pirogue)
    Engines: Yanmar 6LP-STP ; twin Suzuki DF140s
    Location: Consett Bay
    Country: Barbados

    Thanks! My bar is in a slightly different location, but it is quite possible I only checked one side which was switched.

    My man….you must have taken thousands of pics of that boat! impressive! I really need to organize mine.

    I also have to look up the standards for colour coding also. Previously (being ignorant to this sort of thing) I just used red for positive and black for negative….. but clearly that isn’t cutting it.
    My boat tends to use yellow for neg.

    #21740

    Rob Schepis
    Forum Moderator
    Vessel Name: Tenacious
    Engines: 6BTA 5.9 330's - "Seaboard Style"
    Location: Long Island, NY
    Country: USA

    (+) Bus Bar

    Gary there are likely two sides or (two sections) of the 12V (+) bus bar……. an always hot side and a switched side. As in this pic, each side of that bus bar has it’s own feed tied in at the bottom. The right bar is always hot for bilge pumps, etc. Actually that yellow wire on the always hot side is the constant 12V for radio memory (confusing as it looks like the current standard for 12V neg).

    #21738

    Gary Marshall
    Participant
    Vessel Name: Wine Down (Albin 28 TE); Bull Dolphin (Bowen 28ft Pirogue)
    Engines: Yanmar 6LP-STP ; twin Suzuki DF140s
    Location: Consett Bay
    Country: Barbados

    Thanks. I am pretty sure that bus bar turns off on my boat when the battery turns off, but will double check this weekend. I don’t see any inline fuses to the batteries either, but it is possible they are hidden inside the corrugated tubing.

    Will check it out this Saturday.

    Whoever got your old Albin must have got a dream boat! I’m sure everything was immaculate!

    #21695

    Rob Schepis
    Forum Moderator
    Vessel Name: Tenacious
    Engines: 6BTA 5.9 330's - "Seaboard Style"
    Location: Long Island, NY
    Country: USA

    To the “always on” side of the 12V bus bars behind the helm. Or go direct to the battery with an inline fuse holder

    #21670

    Gary Marshall
    Participant
    Vessel Name: Wine Down (Albin 28 TE); Bull Dolphin (Bowen 28ft Pirogue)
    Engines: Yanmar 6LP-STP ; twin Suzuki DF140s
    Location: Consett Bay
    Country: Barbados

    Yep! I have to do a bit of scrubbing. Unfortunately I can’t raise the thru-hulls, so I have just made sure the hose clamps on the back ends are good (and the hoses are double clamped)

    Nah, the bucket just contains a reel of 480lb wire line and “backup” which is 1/4″ rope used to play larger fish with. We use a combination of rods and handlines while fishing.

    Do you by any chance remember where your bilge float switches were powered to? These should always be connected to a +ve always on bus, or direct to the battery….but when I bought the boat they weren’t powered, and I haven’t been able to trace the wire without undoing everything. I had to run a temporary +ve wire to get the bilge pump operational through the float switch. The manual switch at the console was working fine, but that powers the bilge pump directly.
    The radio (for whatever reason) was also powered to hot, and this was working. However, that seemed to blow a fuse this weekend when I was playing with it, and won’t power on…..and so I think both float switches and a radio are connected to the same set of breakers, or fuses, or whatever…
    I plan to undo all the wiring, to understand and label it properly….but that is best done when the boat is on the land…..not when I have to fix it back every evening to return it to the mooring.

    #21659

    Rob Schepis
    Forum Moderator
    Vessel Name: Tenacious
    Engines: 6BTA 5.9 330's - "Seaboard Style"
    Location: Long Island, NY
    Country: USA

    I also clearly have to raise the bottom paint line as well.

    I was limiting my comments to things technical, not aesthetic 🙂

    BTW, is that a drop camera in the bucket in the cockpit?

    #21656

    Gary Marshall
    Participant
    Vessel Name: Wine Down (Albin 28 TE); Bull Dolphin (Bowen 28ft Pirogue)
    Engines: Yanmar 6LP-STP ; twin Suzuki DF140s
    Location: Consett Bay
    Country: Barbados

    Thanks Rob.

    My other boat isn’t self draining, as are most boats in these parts….so we are quite accustomed to having a wet bilge, and trusting the bilge pumps to do a lot of work.

    Having said that, having a self draining boat is pretty neat, and we try to keep the bilge as dry and clean as possible. In my upcoming haul up, I’ll either turn it around, or remove it, depending on the measurements of the other vented openings. Thanks for the input.

    I also clearly have to raise the bottom paint line as well.

    #21637

    Rob Schepis
    Forum Moderator
    Vessel Name: Tenacious
    Engines: 6BTA 5.9 330's - "Seaboard Style"
    Location: Long Island, NY
    Country: USA

    Engine Room Water Scoop!

    Yes and hurry. Any hullside ER venting below the rubrail can be problematic, especially on smaller boats that are used offshore, like yours. Best bet would be to get rid of it altogether. Let the turbo draw in what it needs, just be sure the vented openings meet the rule of thumb of 50sq inches per 100hp. Be sure to measure actual air passage, not the full size of the vents, plastic and all..

    #21632

    Gary Marshall
    Participant
    Vessel Name: Wine Down (Albin 28 TE); Bull Dolphin (Bowen 28ft Pirogue)
    Engines: Yanmar 6LP-STP ; twin Suzuki DF140s
    Location: Consett Bay
    Country: Barbados

    engine room vents

    I’ve wondering if I should change the direction of my air vents circled in the attached picture.

    I accumulate a fair bit of water in my bilge, and I’m thinking a lot comes through the vents. We can actually see the whole vent get submerged sometimes.

    Any thoughts on turning it around? Obviously I still want to ensure the engine is getting a good air supply. It doesn’t have one of these on the port side, but had the other vents on the inside of the gunnels and higher up on the cabin.

    #20142

    Gary Marshall
    Participant
    Vessel Name: Wine Down (Albin 28 TE); Bull Dolphin (Bowen 28ft Pirogue)
    Engines: Yanmar 6LP-STP ; twin Suzuki DF140s
    Location: Consett Bay
    Country: Barbados

    Thanks Rob. That’s a good point, I will do that in the future. I guess I feel like such an amateur that I’m in no position to offer guidance….but that should change in time.
    I’m now looking at what parts I need to order for the engine. The list is still in progress, but so far I have:
    • SMX Double Double Multi-Stage Fuel Filtration Kit
    • Squeeze bulb priming kit
    • FS1218 and FS1000 Fleet filters (will probably switch out to WIX which are locally available)
    • ZF filter
    • Seaboard 116L mixing elbow/dry bend?
    • Air filter for engine
    • Gaskets/o-rings for all the coolers for when I service them
    • Impeller, gaskets, o-ring (sea water pump)
    • Water pump assembly (freshwater pump)
    • Thermostat (plus gasket)
    • Starting motor
    • Alternator

    Now, I am trying to determine what makes sense to get from “yanmar” versus “Toyota” versus “aftermarket”. Obviously certain things such as the cooler gaskets would be yanmar for sure, but does it make sense getting a yanmar starting motor or alternator for thousands of dollars each when an aftermarket one specific for this engine is only $100 – $200.
    Don’t get me wrong, I’m not about using an inferior part, but for example with my timing belt change I bought all Toyota landcruiser parts (landcruiserparts.net) which is what a yanmar dealer would have supplied anyway (the old belt was even marked Toyota) but I actually bought a “Gates” timing belt as they are OEM for many of the automotive companies.
    With the fresh water pump, I’m not sure if Yanmar would have changed the stock Toyota pump, or if I could just get the Toyota one.

    I might post a similar message on the Albin Owners Forum as well.

    #20049

    Rob Schepis
    Forum Moderator
    Vessel Name: Tenacious
    Engines: 6BTA 5.9 330's - "Seaboard Style"
    Location: Long Island, NY
    Country: USA

    Making progress… Going forward, if possible, try and take some good pictures and post them with your updates, it really helps for all of us to share and learn that way

    #20042

    Gary Marshall
    Participant
    Vessel Name: Wine Down (Albin 28 TE); Bull Dolphin (Bowen 28ft Pirogue)
    Engines: Yanmar 6LP-STP ; twin Suzuki DF140s
    Location: Consett Bay
    Country: Barbados

    Timing Belt

    One step at a time.
    Yesterday with the assistance of my mechanic cousin, I changed the timing belt. At the same time I also changed the tensioner and idler. All appeared in perfect condition.
    My cousin got a bit queasy from the boat rocking so he ended up taking a few breaks on the jetty, and I was able to most of the work, so got some good experience through the process.

    #19989

    Gary Marshall
    Participant
    Vessel Name: Wine Down (Albin 28 TE); Bull Dolphin (Bowen 28ft Pirogue)
    Engines: Yanmar 6LP-STP ; twin Suzuki DF140s
    Location: Consett Bay
    Country: Barbados

    Ahhh…..Yes – I am a member there, and will do some more research.
    I called a guy at the local pleasure boat marina who works with the folks who maintain the boats. He says they use “sulphamic/sulfamic acid”, which is available locally. From what I was told, and my own research, this is used in industries as a descaler/cleaner and often used to clean heat exchangers. It is supposed to not attack rubber/metals.
    How they apply it is to remove the cap from the seawater strainer, and pour in a 5 gallon bucket of the acid slowly as the engine has been started (with the seacock closed), then shut off the engine as you have finished pouring. Leave it in for 15 minutes or so, then start the engine and flush with the hose.

    #19988

    Rob Schepis
    Forum Moderator
    Vessel Name: Tenacious
    Engines: 6BTA 5.9 330's - "Seaboard Style"
    Location: Long Island, NY
    Country: USA

    AOG is the Albin Owners Group forum, I thought you were a member there. If you do decide to flush the seawater loop be sure to use a product specific for this and follow the proper instructions.

    #19922

    Gary Marshall
    Participant
    Vessel Name: Wine Down (Albin 28 TE); Bull Dolphin (Bowen 28ft Pirogue)
    Engines: Yanmar 6LP-STP ; twin Suzuki DF140s
    Location: Consett Bay
    Country: Barbados

    No impeller pulled needed. Needlenose pliers and/or a flat bladed screw driver will do fine.

    You are confusing the seawater side and the coolant side – the thermostat is on the coolant side. Go onto AOG and search Rydlyme and you’ll get some good setup info. Removal and disassembly is the preferred cleaning method for the coolers when your schedule allows some downtime..

    Good to know re: the puller not being necessary for the impeller.

    re: the thermostat….I guess with the outboards, there is only seawater to cool the engine…so I didn’t think of the thermostat as being on any other side…

    What is AOG?
    Unfortunately Rydlyme is no longer available locally. It didn’t sell very well. I can get CRC Salt Terminator….but not sure if this will work as well. Most guys seem to use diluted muriatic acid.

    #19921

    Gary Marshall
    Participant
    Vessel Name: Wine Down (Albin 28 TE); Bull Dolphin (Bowen 28ft Pirogue)
    Engines: Yanmar 6LP-STP ; twin Suzuki DF140s
    Location: Consett Bay
    Country: Barbados

    The pro pull works perfectly on your boat. Here’s a shot of me using it (not on an Albin) but same puller.

    Thanks. Do you know which model Pro Pull you used?
    I see Pro Pull 103 says it is up to 1.5″ shaft…..but wow, these are expensive

    http://www.getaprop.com/content-product_info/product_id-1239/pro_pull_103.html

    #19907

    Rob Schepis
    Forum Moderator
    Vessel Name: Tenacious
    Engines: 6BTA 5.9 330's - "Seaboard Style"
    Location: Long Island, NY
    Country: USA

    No impeller pulled needed. Needlenose pliers and/or a flat bladed screw driver will do fine.

    You are confusing the seawater side and the coolant side – the thermostat is on the coolant side. Go onto AOG and search Rydlyme and you’ll get some good setup info. Removal and disassembly is the preferred cleaning method for the coolers when your schedule allows some downtime..

Viewing 20 replies - 61 through 80 (of 126 total)

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