Leaky ZF 220VLD

[David Diener]

Hey Guys,

Have leaky transmission. Appears to be coming from the engine side of the tranny above the prop shaft. Think its coming from tranny seal at engine coupling shaft and dripping down and leaking between transmission and engine flywheel housing. Does this make sense? Im not a transmission guy but don’t have any other ideas on where it would be coming from. Front of tranny is dry and all the hoses for cooler and drain line all seem to be dry. Not sure how much oil I’m using but best guess would be about a quart every 20-30 hrs. Didn’t check it for awhile then found it low. Put a few hours on yesterday and level look like it dropped approx 1/8 qt.

Looks like I’ll have to remove the engine to repair the seal so I thought I would check here to see if anyone has any other insights. Make sure I’m not missing something obvious to someone more knowledgeable. Tried attaching some pics but don’t think this site likes Macs. Cant seem to pull them up to post.

thanks for the help

David

Topic

[Anthony De Yurre]

I know this is an old thread but I have a 2001 Sea Ray Sundancer with Cummins 6CTA8.3 450 Diamond (serials 45975708 and 45980411) mated to a ZF V-Drive transmission. I started getting a leak right around where the housing for the transmission is mated to the engine. Seems like a similar issue to the one described in this thread. I have some rust on the underside of the engine where the engine and housing is attached and I imagine the rust has compromised the seal. The question I have is to open this up, get rid of the rust in the seal and put in a new gasket, is this basically a job that requires the engine to get pulled?

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ejwold

[David Diener]

Managed to get it off. Ended up grinding the pinch bolts off and split the coupler open more with metal wedge and it loosened up enough to come off.  Seems the key was so corroded it was holding everything in place. Thanks for all the advice.

Feel like I should’ve gotten the engine out in the time it took me to remove the coupler. Lol

[Rob Schepis]

I did a couple Albin 28’s and both came right apart with this small puller… they were both ZF63’s with less marine age then what you are dealing with.

No doubt you are putting a lot of pressure on it with that puller. You could try fully removing the pinch bolts and using wedges/chisels in the split.

I see you have a muffler somewhat in the way but removing that cheesy plywood partition makes it a little easier to work.

[Tony Athens]

It would not be the first time that a coupling would have to be split along the top of the key using a 4″ Makita type grinder and a 1/16″ cut-off wheel..

 

Tony

[David Diener]

I did try map gas. The small bottle usually used for soldering. No luck. I’ll try using something on the puller tip that is not so pointy. I just can’t believe how difficult is is to get off. Feel like I’m missing something. It doesn’t appear the  pinch bolts on coupling would interfere with the removal but maybe it’s worth cutting the off. I couldn’t remove the nuts all the way off. Seems as if the bolt had a slight bend or the threads are really buggered. I used a pnuematic impact gun on them and that was as loose as I could get them.

Thanks for the advice!

[Clark Leighs]

I would  stop using the point on the end of the puller ram as that will simply sink into the shaft end , maybe expanding it a hair.    Use a big heavy nut or steel slug with a matching recess  under the point to apply pressure. Once pressure is applied then try some heat from a torch.  Welding torch rosebud would be best but even couple of propane torches  EXCEPT use MAPP gas as it is hotter.  Just make some  kind of holder to set those torches in so they can be quickly/safely  set aside when the shaft moves.  3/4″ Plywood pieces with a big  enough hole for the torch to be dropped into about 3 to 4 layers thick.

Another way  is to get some longer bolts, or grade 8 threaded rod and  Gr 8 nuts/washers, to use in the coupler face holes.  Lube the rods wirh some NevRseez.  Drill a piece of steel with the matching hole pattern  to the coupler to act as a pressure plate  at the shaft visible end.   Insert a socket , or a slug of steel, between the  shaft end and the new  pressure plate.  Use the bolts/rods to press the shaft out.   Just tighten evenly all the way around.   Use all of the holes.       And of course if needed -heat.

I don’t know how much Kroil you have applied but more never hurt.    Even some heating/cooling cycles with Kroil  applied each time.

Just be carefull though as most penetrants like this are flammable.   You don’t want a fire to boot.

One more note; I would completely remove the clamp bolts.   Maybe yours is different but on many couplings  the bolt resides  in a slight dimple cut into the shaft od.   If yours is like that the bolt will stop any movement as it contacts the dimple.

[David Diener]

How the !@$& do you get the coupler off the shaft?

Ive been battling trying to get the coupler  off the shaft. It has been disconnected from transmission. Slid the shaft forward and loosened clamp nuts and took off locknut. Coated everything with with kroil But the coupler will not budge.  Busted one puller so went and got a  5 ton harbor freight hydraulic puller on it and still no luck. Short of pulling out the grinder and doing it destructively I’ve run out of ideas! Anyone have any? Thanks

[Rob Schepis]

I did it on a Yanmar 28TE, yes the Cummins will be a tad tighter but should be doable

[David Diener]

I like that idea! Just hope I can reach all the backing nuts under the bolts. Thanks

[Rob Schepis]

Leave the mounts on the engine & tranny and unbolt them from the aluminum engine bed brackets.  Just trace the footprint of the mounts on the bed brackets first.  This will take care of left/right & fwd/aft.  Before you lift her out make sure the height adjustment nuts/jam nuts are tight on the mounts and then your height should hold as well.  This should keep you pretty close to where you started and then you can go through the normal alignment drill at the coupler once she’s back in the water.  Good time to address the shaft seal and cutlass bearing as well.

[David Diener]

Thanks guys! Looks like ill be pulling the engine. Pulling should be relatively easy but am nervous about getting it back in and aligned properly. Any advise on aligning the shaft. Was planning on not moving the bolts on the engine mounts. Hopefully should align properly. Thanks!

[Tony Athens]

I have inserted  a couple of pics of what you’ll see when you pull the gear.. Very easy front seal to replace & source and is not expensive..

 

 

 

[Rob Schepis]

It’s golden or clear, not black, confirming it’s gear oil not engine?  Sounds like you eliminated the usual culprits – hoses, senders, fittings…  Well I see you have a 28TE, easy access for a lift out.  I had no issue pulling out a 6LP w/ zf63 from a 28TE, your B will be a tad tighter but doable.  Some leaks if not bad are easier dealt with just using a diaper but in the 28TE you likely have a little rush of residual bilge water that goes forward and aft as you come off/on plane which would make for a PITA trying to keep the diaper under the center of the engine/tranny…

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