Hose clamps

[Mike Schmidt]

I’m about to buy all new hoses for my 6btas but I have a question about the spring loaded hose clamps. Many of the old hoses on my boat leak unless I cinch the clamps all the way tight… which seems to me defeats the point of the spring loaded feature.

With new hoses and clamps, how tight to you make them?

Topic

[Rob Schepis]

Stocking Stuffer ??

Not to fancy but might be worth a try, the price of admission is certainly not too steep…

https://www.lowes.com/pd/AMERICAN-VALVE-Torque-Wrench/1244081?cm_mmc=SCE_BINGPLA_ONLY-_-RoughPlumbingElectrical-_-PlumbingConnectionsAndSupport-_-1244081:AMERICAN_VALVE&CAWELAID=&kpid=1244081&CAGPSPN=pla{ifdyn:dyn}&k_clickID=bi_264334745_5481216628_13814743298_pla-1100008777698_c_&msclkid=7a224af549211116d06c16f330e2b7be

[Tony Athens]

One on the Cummins schools I was at about 25 year ago has a very fancy nut-driver set at 60 in-lbs–Click & Slip system….

Tony

[Rob Schepis]

I use the Constant Torque clamps and tighten them very tight with a nutdriver …. never with a ratchet …. and never an issue…. you cannot over-tighten them with a nutdriver.

[Justin Riege]

Someone correct me if I am wrong, but my understanding of those springs is to provide constant clamping force on the hose, and this will be effective as the hose wall compresses. So I usually tighten them until the spring is clamped down. If you are trying to leave it a bit loose so the spring has some room to go either way… and that’s what is sounds like, then to me it probably isn’t tight enough, but the fact that the spring is fully compressed doesn’t mean it won’t help to keep constant pressure as as the hose wall compresses over time with thermal cycling, age, vibration etc… I don’t think you really need to leave any spring travel for the hose to expand. That’s my theory anyways.

And like tony said, always use the rector seal.

[Tony Athens]

Very late reply–Sorry.

Use Rectorseal #5 on all coolant & seawater hose connections and proper clamps.. Issues will go away..

Tony

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