Fuel filtration system

[Greg webb]

So earlier this year I bought a 76 mako 23 inboard direct drive completely stripped. No engine, electronics, wiring, plumbing, nothing. So I’ve been rebuilding for the last 6 months. I have an engine coming for it in a few days, a Cummins 4bta. I’m on to the fuel system stage of the process and need a recommendation. I’ve already read the forum about the multi stage fuel filter system and know that I want a 3 stage system but still feel like I don’t know what to buy. The boat has 2 35 gallon tanks which I want to draw from simultaneously and not have to switch back and forth manually so I assume ( uneducatedly) that I can just run a T between the two tanks and trust that equal amounts of suction will be applied to both tanks, ( very open to better methods if anyone has suggestions). As far as the lift pump, is that already on the engine or another component I need to order to add to the fuel system? And does that take the place of a priming bulb? And finally the filters. I don’t know the fuel flow requirements of the 4bta so I don’t want to order the wrong filters. Are any of the fuel filter kits on seaboard the right set up for my application? The boat will be used heavily for commercial fishing. I really just want to know the brand of filters I should look for and the ratings I need. Thank you for any advice.

Topic

[Justin Riege]

Greg, you don’t need any additional pumping.

Check out this video.

Also watch some of our other videos, some great visuals for how things are done. We are still building our video library, so its not fully comprehensive yet, but its growing every week.

[Greg webb]

Fuel tanks

So both fuel tanks draw from the top with suction tubes. Would it make sense to run two inline pumps on each side before the T? Or maybe one pump after the T before the filters? Thanks!

[Greg webb]

Tony

So the motor I got from yunick Motorsports out of Florida. Complete refurbished with a new ZFs transmission 1.2:1.
The boat originally had a 350 in it when it was made, and it had long steel brackets on the stringers for the engine mounts to bolt to. Im planning on fabricating new brackets for the stringers for the 4bta to mount to. I’m expecting the engine to be delivered today or tomorrow so when it is I’ll get measurements off it for the engine mount brackets.

I’m in the process of installing the hydraulic steering. I don’t have prop demensions but am replacing it anyway because of pitting and I’m almost positive it will be the wrong pitch as it was paired with a 350, but I’m getting it from a guy in rancho Cordova who does props for most of the people I know with boats.

As far as the engine being so active at low rpm… this is something I’ve heard about from a few people and don’t know how I should address that. There will be times where I will be running at low rpm for trolling or running hydraulics and any tips or solutions to reduce the vibration would be great. Or anything else for that matter. I guess the beauty of this project is that I’m not having to replace anything cause there was nothing there when I bought it. So almost everything going in to the boat isn’t really dependent on what’s already there if that makes sense. I can build it on paper and then install. Thanks for any tips!

[Tony Athens]

Looks like “quite a project”.. You are a very hands-on guy..

Curious————————-Where did you find a 4BTA? Whats the total history of the engine?

Gear type/model, reduction, prop dimensions?

Tell me about your steering and rudder set up?

Tell me about your proposed engine mounting? The 4BTA is a “very active” engine: below 1000~ 1200 RPM..

Tony

[Rob Schepis]

Not much to tell as to “engine compartment” in those shots. And the replies to my questions and requests? Especially need details as to the tanks and proposed plumbing. This will confirm my comment that you can go with a T but this requires the tanks get fuel off bottom outlets (not dip tubes) and they T below that level of the tanks and are connected with a good size balance line….

[Greg webb]

Photos

Here are some pics of the boat

[Rob Schepis]

Have any pictures to share – engine, tanks, proposed filtration mounting area, etc?

Have a serial number on that engine?

No the priming bulb does not take the place of a lift pump. The priming bulb is used to push fuel through the filters with the engine off at the time of a filter change-out. It “could” be used to keep the engine running in the event of dealing with diagnosis of a failed lift pump.

Yes on the T to draw from both tanks. When you say “3 stage system” you mean a double (multi-stage) off-engine primary setup and then the on-engine last chance filter, correct? The SMX double double would do you quite fine and it is also able to be configured in several ways to deal with space constraints which is why I asked for some photos of what your are working with as to layout and spacing. Based on the boat it sounds like it’s going to be mounted under the center console?

[Author]

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