Barry Controls engine mount tear down

[Tim Bogle]

Two questions: I need to figure out if my 9 year old Barry engine mounts holding down one of my QSC8.3 engines can be carefully disassembled so that I can remove one mount to restore the rusty paint (or replace it) without moving the gearbox. The crux of the problem is that I can’t get decent access to treat the rust with the mount staying in place. I’m wondering if I can fully remove the central threaded shaft and then unbolt the two side bolts allowing me to slide the mount out gently past the bracket, (leaving the engine and gearbox like three legged dog), do the refurbishment and slide it back in etc. If I go on a discovery mission undoing stuff, I might destroy the integrity of the mount and then not have a solution to then replace it with a new one without unbolting the gearbox which I don’t want do just to treat some surface rust. Does anyone know if the mount can be disassembled and then reassembled again without harming the mount? The mount that I have a picture of is the one in the walkway. The problem mount is impossible to get a decent shot of.

Second question: I’m about to service both engine after coolers and fuel & gear oil coolers and I’m unsure whether to also do the main heat exchanger with the header tank, (Last picture). I don’t know if it’s been fully serviced before I bought the boat three years ago. She’s got 650 hours on the clock. Are the former a priority and the latter not so much? Thanks, TB

Topic

[Philip]

If your going to do it then it has to come off the engine completely to be done properly. It’s not that big of a job really – drain the coolant, remove the plumbing tube/hose, and then a few bolts top and bottom and it comes off as a unit.

Get it on a bench and remove the bundle for service just as you would the aftercooler. The heat exchangers don’t see the same wear at the sealing surfaces because the pressures are close on both sides (coolant and seawater) and the coolant has anti corrosive properties also.

[Tim Bogle]

Thanks Philip. I was planning on doing these myself. This might change. Pressure testing would be a good idea too I guess. I see that you have the same engines as me. I have a question for you if you wouldn’t mind. I’ve been scoping out the job and the main heat exchanger with the integrated header tank has me wondering how much stuff has to be removed to get the cooler bundle out. The alternator and it’s mounts are in the way forward and the exhaust is in the way aft, so the bundle will not slide out to fully service this component without a lot of removing of kit. Is it possible to just remove the end caps and service it adequately that way? Looking at both of mine, the paint looks brand new, so I reckon that these have never been serviced in 10 years.The other coolers were done in the workshop 4 years ago, according to receipts.

[Philip]

The fuel/oil cooler gets chemically cleaned and pressure tested. No seals or o-rings to mess with.

[Tim Bogle]

Thanks Tony. I’m still researching this job before I tackle it. Re; the oil and fuel coolers on the QSC8.3, I can’t figure out how they would be serviced as there are no end caps. Could you please comment on how these are serviced?

[Tim Bogle]

Thanks Donald, I will just leave the engine mounts alone. That’s good advice wit( the cooling system. However, I still can’t figure out how to service the oil and fuel coolers. There are no end caps for access.

[Tony Athens]

Barry Mount assembly Pics

Donald,

The stud in the mount is removable, however it is very difficult to do (even in a shop environment) .

1) Very tight

2) it was assembled using high strength thread locking compound.

3) heating the threaded stud is usually required (200F – ish)

4) Difficult to “wrench it right” with just the 2 flats at the top.

Good assembly pics attached
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Seawater system service:

1) Aftercooler first–On the bench–Plenty of pics on this web site

2) HX next– “on the engine” works

3) Gear cooler last– “on the engine” works

#2 & #3 are not as affected by “Marine Age” (maybe 3:1) as the aftercooler

Tony

[donald roth]

If your going to clean the raw water system, do it all. From intake grill to exhaust shower. No advantage to having it partly clean!
The removal of the motor mount will require separation of the coupling, removal of all the top nuts on the mounts and then jacking up the motor till you can remove the offending one.
If you leave all the bottom nuts in their original location, you’ll have a good place to start on realignment when you put it back together.

[Author]

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