Viewing 20 topics - 161 through 180 (of 682 total)
    • Cummins Marine Forum Topics
    • Correct wiring for starter button?

      This topic has 1 reply, has 2 voices, and was last updated byRob Schepis 1 year ago

      June 29, 2022 at 6:29 am The starter button for  6 BTA 315, has on the left terminal purple in from key switch and out to wiring harness. Yellow red to the wiring harness and a purple into the wiring harness on the other terminal. Correct ?

      Started by: barry reese


      1 Reply
      June 29, 2022 at 8:41 am The yellow w/red tracer should be alone on it’s terminal on the start button.

      Last Post by: Rob Schepis posted: 1 year ago

    • 6 bta 315 won’t start,electrical issue

      This topic has 1 reply, has 1 voices, and was last updated bybarry reese 1 year ago

      June 28, 2022 at 8:37 am Went to start turned key on, pushed starter button only a click. Checked voltage on starter button, solenoid, starter motor all show 12.o plus. Cleaned all battery connections, jumped across starter poles and engine starts. Local mechanic said change square solenoid, same results. I am not conversant in electrical and local mechanic here in Mexico stumped. Thinking maybe new magnetic switch start solenoid? 

      Started by: barry reese


      1 Reply
      June 28, 2022 at 1:33 pm One more loose wire got it going

      Last Post by: barry reese posted: 1 year ago

    • Onan mdkav

      This topic has 3 replies, has 2 voices, and was last updated byTony Athens 1 year ago

      June 18, 2022 at 2:48 pm I just noticed a salt water leak in my generator pan.Of course it’s leaking from the back of the engine which is impossible to get a visual on. I can see a drip line which leads to a puddle under the engine which is coming from approximately the circled red circle. I can get my hand back there some but cannot feel any moisture on that hose or the exhaust pipe.From looking at the schematic I don’t see any other spots raw water could be leaking fr…

      Started by: William Walter


      3 Replies
      June 20, 2022 at 7:04 pm If me? Cut out as much as practical and “Pedro it” with a rubber hose and RectorSeal #5  between the hose & the SS — double or triple hose clamps.  Thin wall chessy  SS tube and seawater and seawater has always been a bad combo

      Last Post by: Tony Athens posted: 1 year ago

    • Engine Mount question?

      This topic has 3 replies, has 2 voices, and was last updated byTony Athens 1 year ago

      June 17, 2022 at 8:55 am Changing out my engine and gear mounts and was wondering if I should stay with my current style on the gear, see picture, or go with the SMX purple isolators all around. I currently have the Cummins Barry mounts in the engine side so those would be an easy swap over.  The engines are 6BTA 370’s and the gears are ZF-63 IV. Thank you. 

      Started by: Sean Davis


      3 Replies
      June 19, 2022 at 6:14 am On the v-drive end, I’d use 75DUR. 70 on the engine end Dripless install – shaft needs to slide out to the log area, or maybe all the way out . The area on the shaft where the dripless goes has to be in very good shape as dripless seals are not forgiving—Doing this in the water is close to impossible to do      

      Last Post by: Tony Athens posted: 1 year ago

    • Keeping oil pan heater 24/7/365?

      This topic has 10 replies, has 6 voices, and was last updated byRob Schepis 1 year ago

      June 11, 2022 at 8:41 am I installed the 250 watt pan heaters that I got from SBMAR, and I believe its been suggested to keep them on 24/7. Is that true? Any concern with carbonizing or damage to the oil? Fire danger?  Do other members of the forum keep them on 24/7? Thank you for the help!    

      Started by: Matt Lyman


      10 Replies
      June 17, 2022 at 6:01 am Yea, think of an old house with a small floor-standing cast iron radiator that keeps the whole room warm and dry, similar concept…

      Last Post by: Rob Schepis posted: 1 year ago

    • Split coupling for tapered prop shaft?

      This topic has 3 replies, has 3 voices, and was last updated bydonald roth 1 year ago

      June 3, 2022 at 1:24 pm Hi everyone, I’m looking to know if a split coupling for a tapered shaft exists. I know that these couplings work on an interference fit of the lapped taper and it may be impossible to get a good fit-up or lock on the shaft with this idea. Just asking My shafts are 1-3/4″ OD, tapered at the prop and at the gear side. The issue is that the only way to remove the coupling to change out the Tides seals is to remove the engines with gear…

      Started by: Alex


      3 Replies
      June 16, 2022 at 12:54 pm Moving the engine forward will move the propeller closer to the strut, you want about a shaft diameter of overhang between the strut and prop hub. <br />It will also entail raising the engine some to maintain alignment. You may need a spacer in the coupling to keep that spacing correct. A”Drivesaver” coupling insert is an easy solution, gives about an inch, or you could have a spacer made by a machine shop for a longer length.

      Last Post by: donald roth posted: 1 year ago

    • Cummins ECM Harness

      This topic has 3 replies, has 2 voices, and was last updated byBurton Freeman 1 year ago

      June 13, 2022 at 2:57 pm I am hunting a Cummins part # 5302001 ECM wire harness. Have called coast to coast with no stock availability and a 70-75 Source Critical delivery. Any help / advice would be appreciated.    Thanks! Allen

      Started by: Burton Freeman


      3 Replies
      June 15, 2022 at 5:00 pm QSB 5.9  Serial – 73073253 Cummins Part # 5302000 OR 5302001 – Either will work.  The electronics are Mercury Marine. However, this harness is a Cummins harness and is part of the Cummins parts list and manufactured by Cummins or their assigned third party.   

      Last Post by: Burton Freeman posted: 1 year ago

    • Seawater strain basket SS or plastic?

      This topic has 1 reply, has 2 voices, and was last updated byTony Athens 1 year ago

      June 4, 2022 at 11:19 am Got a brass groco strainer for the QSC8.3 and have always had a metal strainer basket in it. The handle is broken so about to order a replacement. It came up on trawler forum and seemed like several captains were leaning towards the plastic or polyethylene baskets. Any recommendations here from those who have looked into it?

      Started by: David H


      1 Reply
      June 14, 2022 at 6:15 am The plastic Groco strainers are really cheesy–But they do not corrode. How long they last? Don’t know yet We use a spot welder quite often to fix the handles on the metal baskets. Simple for us

      Last Post by: Tony Athens posted: 1 year ago

    • SMX Exhaust Heat Alarm Install

      This topic has 10 replies, has 5 voices, and was last updated byClark Leighs 1 year ago

      May 11, 2022 at 6:43 pm In the process of installing the SMX exhaust heat sensing switches on my exhaust elbows.  I had intended to place the switches further up on the elbow but I was having trouble getting the sensors to sit flush on the elbow surface.  Currently have them at the bottom of the elbow with the hose clamps on the edge of the exhaust hose.   Are they ok where I currently have them placed?  For the wiring, does it matter which tab is connected to ground a…

      Started by: Patrick Mangum


      10 Replies
      May 31, 2022 at 4:56 pm Yes, the snap switch must be mounted metal to metal.    The hose will be an insulator and will delay any reaction of the switch to mounting heat.  Maybe long enough to negate its effectiveness.

      Last Post by: Clark Leighs posted: 1 year ago

    • Aftercooler condensate drain port

      This topic has 1 reply, has 2 voices, and was last updated byRob Schepis 1 year ago

      May 30, 2022 at 8:44 pm Can anyone tell me if the condensate drain port on the B series Aftercooler is NPT or straight thread.  I want to connect a ball valve drain and the ones on this website look like a straight thread with an O-ring.  Mine came with a 1/4″ NPT steel plug and it doesn’t feed into the hole very well.  Trying to figure this out.  Thanks Matt

      Started by: Matthew Swasty


      1 Reply
      May 31, 2022 at 3:18 am 1/4″ NPT, chase the threads with a tap

      Last Post by: Rob Schepis posted: 1 year ago

    • SMX Double Double vs Racor

      This topic has 2 replies, has 2 voices, and was last updated byRob Schepis 1 year ago

      May 29, 2022 at 6:33 am Yes, we preach about the benefits of the SMX DD over the Racor but who better than to tell the real story than the “last chance” filter himself. My current boat had a Racor 900 using a 10micron filter.  I used it a few seasons and then switched it out to the SMX DD using the FS1001 and FF5013. Attached are side by side pics of the FF5285 last chance filter change outs that I cut open: The filter on the left is 150 engine hours with t…

      Started by: Rob Schepis


      2 Replies
      May 30, 2022 at 5:53 am 100+ hour Mud filters cut open as well, no mud, no crud…

      Last Post by: Rob Schepis posted: 1 year ago

    • 6CTA engine alignment

      This topic has 3 replies, has 3 voices, and was last updated bylpmcc 1 year ago

      May 18, 2022 at 5:04 am Hi All, I need some help. I’m trying to finish a prop shaft/coupler alignment on my boat (’99 Seary 450EB w/ Cummins 6CTA’s, and they are v-drives). I’ve determined that the front end (fan belt end) of the strb engine needs to move inboard, probably just 1/8” or so.  I have all the engine mount bolts loose, but can’t figure out how to scoootch over a 2,000 lbs engine.  The best Idea I have at the moment is to use a “come along” device attached t…

      Started by: lpmcc


      3 Replies
      May 29, 2022 at 1:39 pm Thanks for the help.  An update:  I used a come-along and a large C clamp attached to the opposite side stringer.  I was able to move the engine and improve the alignment, but I ran the boat this weekend and I still have the same wobble.  Either my alignment did not “take”, or there is something else going on.  FYI, I had the props, shafts, couplers pulled, ck’d and reinstalled, plus new cutless bearings and shaft seals.  It wa…

      Last Post by: lpmcc posted: 1 year ago

    • Ider Pulley Upgrade Question

      This topic has 2 replies, has 2 voices, and was last updated byPatrick Mangum 1 year ago

      May 23, 2022 at 1:08 pm REMAN 6BTA 330s CPL 1975  Plate says manufactured 03/28/2008  Does anybody know if this engine would have already come with the upgraded pulley bolt?

      Started by: Patrick Mangum


      2 Replies
      May 24, 2022 at 11:59 am Understood, I’ll plan on upgrading to be sure.  Thank you Rob!

      Last Post by: Patrick Mangum posted: 1 year ago

    • Flush installed

      This topic has 3 replies, has 2 voices, and was last updated byLew 1 year ago

      May 22, 2022 at 10:55 am Thanks to Justin and the crew for an easy upgrade.  I had the caps shipped directly to Seaboard and they handled the rest.  Then as I flushed the engines, I did a little testing to see how much better I was treating the engines. I grabbed a little saltwater aquarium water tester to see how much better the water was with the kits and leaving the raw water seacock open.  I took a scoop of water off the back of the boat and it measured about 28ppt,…

      Started by: Matt


      3 Replies
      May 22, 2022 at 10:14 pm Nice..good job, they say this really helps the marine age.

      Last Post by: Lew posted: 1 year ago

    • QSC/ISC remote filter delete adapter

      This topic has 2 replies, has 2 voices, and was last updated byTony Athens 1 year ago

      May 19, 2022 at 8:23 am Engine serial number 73249811 QSC/ISC remote filter delete adapter on engine. Continually seeps oil out of the O-ring (Cummins SEAL,O RING 3899728) that came with kit. This will be 3rd time I re-sealed on this engine S.N. and second time on it’s sister engine. All surfaces are in excellent condition. The O-ring that came in kit has very small cross section. This  Cummins kit has been installed for several years and always seeps. There was …

      Started by: CHRIST J STANG


      2 Replies
      May 20, 2022 at 4:01 pm Post some pics of all especially where the leaks are– far away and closer up . I want to see the engine engine.. Is this  a converted BUS or truck engine?   Tony

      Last Post by: Tony Athens posted: 1 year ago

    • Testing 2013 Seaboard Pyrometer

      This topic has 4 replies, has 3 voices, and was last updated byClark Leighs 1 year ago

      April 21, 2022 at 2:03 pm I have a circa 2013 Seaboard pyrometer in a QSM 770 not reading this season at startup.  It has power as it’s lit but the gauge sits at 100, doesn’t move.   what’s changed?  Entirely new electronics package and dashboard, engine was heavily serviced including new turbo and exhaust.  The sensor was not touched in all of this.  Wires look OK, connections look OK.   what’s the easiest and fastest way to isolate whether it’s gauge, sensor …

      Started by: Larry Backman


      4 Replies
      May 17, 2022 at 11:08 am I will chime in for anyone else looking  for info. These probes are thermocouples.  There are many different types for specific uses and for more accurate reading at lower temps.    I suspect your is  a “K” type.    which can handle the heat easily but is somewhat less accurate than some others.     In this case the K is more than good enough. They are NOT resistive devices.   They are two different metals joined at the points/ends. …

      Last Post by: Clark Leighs posted: 1 year ago

    • HIGH VOLTAGE ALARM

      This topic has 5 replies, has 3 voices, and was last updated byClark Leighs 1 year ago

      May 15, 2022 at 2:01 pm I have a high voltage alarm at the helm on my smart craft display. Its a 24 volt system ,I checked the batteries and have 23,5 on 1 set and 25.5 on the other . After I start up the engines displays read 30.1 on boat.  is this a alternator issue?

      Started by: jlarosa


      5 Replies
      May 17, 2022 at 8:28 am Measure AT the ALTERNATOR as described.     THat is the alternator output voltage.  Just use a DMM and a decent one.    Decent no longer has to be expensive but  you can still go to cheap.        If the panel is reading high still then it is your panel.      If still concerned then I would go for independent Vmeters as TOny suggested.    THat would entail running a fused set of leads from each battery set directly to each meter.   THe …

      Last Post by: Clark Leighs posted: 1 year ago

    • Popular Q engines— fuel pressure numbers

      This topic has 0 replies, has 1 voices, and was last updated by 1 year ago

      May 12, 2022 at 6:49 am These are the proper running fuel pressure number measured on the filter head on the QSB 5.9, QSC and QSL 9..   I have not measured th 6.7 yet, but suspect it in the 50-100 PSI range. 

      Started by: Tony Athens


      0 Replies - Can you Help? ...be the First to Respond!

    • Alternator Antics

      This topic has 4 replies, has 3 voices, and was last updated byClark Leighs 1 year ago

      April 17, 2022 at 3:25 pm On my first trip on the boat this Spring going to the new marina, I noticed the voltmeter on the instrument panel wasn’t showing any charge. At the dock, I got out the mutli meter and checked the batteries and sure enough there was no voltage difference after starting the engine. I check the alternator and got a 12.7 voltage reading at the alternator field (the same as the battery) . Connections at the alternator looked good with no eviden…

      Started by: Nigel A Veater 6BT-5.9M 210hp


      4 Replies
      May 6, 2022 at 7:28 am A sign of an overheated alternator will be the colour of the windings.     Normally they should look copper coloured , reddish.     with a coat of the special varnish the builder uses. If the colour is dark and has a burned odour then the alternator has likely overheated.   Although the winding may stand more use as long as steps are taken to prevent this in the future the bridge diodes or the internal regulator may not like the overheat, fail a…

      Last Post by: Clark Leighs posted: 1 year ago

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