Home » Tony’s Tips » Articles » Engines & Components » Idler Pulley Issues on Cummins 6BT / 6BTA 5.9

Idler Pulley Issues on Cummins 6BT / 6BTA 5.9

For the Cummins Marine B & C series engines released in the late 80ā€™s to early 90ā€™s, the idler pulley arrangement had an unacceptable failure rate. The engineers updated the idler pully support arrangement and that basically solved the issue about 1994-ish.

For those engines that did not come with the upgrade idler pulley support system, a ā€œhands-onā€ approach to this is what this article is about. Lots of pictures below:

For those wishing to do this themselves————–Replace the original 10mm bolt with a Grade 8 ā€“ 7/16 x 2 3/4ā€³ bolt and nut. This requires drilling the spacer (new or old style) to 29/64ā€³ and drilling the engine bracket to 7/16ā€³. You can either reuse the front washer by drilling it to 29/64ā€³ or use a new 7/16 high quality flat washer in its place (much easier). For the newer engines, you have to remove the sheet metal cap (like a thin freeze plug) to gain access to the bolt. You do not need to replace this and I recommend that you donā€™t. Both pulleys use industry standard 6203 sealed bearings (worth about $ 10 each or less) and can be changed with minimum effort if this is needed (about every 5000 hours in a clean dry environmentā€”more often if wet). When doing this upgrade, be sure you lubricate the parts/bolt/nut (common grease) and torque to yield (about 45-55 ft lbs).

Original Parts from about "1988" engines.
Original Parts from about “1988” engines.

Old vs. New disigned Cummins parts - To this very day about 10 years later, I still cannot figure out what Cummins was thinking.
Old vs. New disigned Cummins parts – To this very day about 10 years later, I still cannot figure out what Cummins was thinking.

The real long term solution - A Grade 8 - 7/16" bolt / old spacer style or new, makes no difference if you upgrade the bolt size.
The real long term solution – A Grade 8 – 7/16″ bolt / old spacer style or new, makes no difference if you upgrade the bolt size.

Back to drilling. I recommend this procedure for any B & C over 2 years old and also for any new engine in a single engine boat.

The spring idler assembly has also had a few upgrade over the years, but none of these were from failure problems. There has been some casting changes, spring rate modifications, and ???. The good news w/ the tensioner is that it costs less than 10 yrs ago by a substantial margin. The current # is 3936201 and it’s about $100 or #3934818 , about $90. This belt system has proven to be a good reliable system (other than this idler pulley bolt) with belt life typically at 2000+ hrs. With a little effort, even that problem can be solved.

NS_Idler-Pulleys_4

NS_Idler-Pulleys_5

The two hard parts of the project that you need to do. Bore out the “spacer / bushing / sleeve” (what ever you want to call it), and drill out the bracket to accept a “real bolt”.

NS_Idler-Pulleys_6

NS_Idler-Pulleys_7

Finished Repair / Bored spacer, a 7/16″ Grade 8 bolt & Nut. Assembeled with some grease and torqued to about 45-55 ft lbs – Done right, no issues ever again!!

Note: I have resurrected this article from about June 2000 era as I am now seeing the issue re-surface again with the new Cummins REMAN Marine engine packages. Could they have gone backwards ???

We’ve recently released a solution to this problem, take a look at our Idler Pulley Upgrade

Idler Pulley Kits